Return Trip to SW Bulgaria, 30 May-8 June 2012

[Michaeljf]

Return Trip to SW Bulgaria, 30 May-8 June 2012

We had our first visit to SW Bulgaria at the end of June 2011. I had enjoyed the visit but having only spent a week in Bulgaria (with a last day washed out from rainfall) I felt a certain feeling of ‘unfinished business’ about the first trip: Karen and I had decided that on our second visit we would spend 10 days in Bulgaria, and looking at the ‘Prime Butterfly areas in Bulgaria’ by Abadjiev and Beshkov, I had decided that the best place in SW Bulgaria to base ourselves this time was in the Yadenitsa Valley, slightly south of our first visit which had been based around the Pirin mountains (Bankso and Melnik). This would be the first time I had worked out where to go purely on the references from the ‘Prime butterfly areas’ book, and the Yadenitsa Valley seemed to have all the target species that I wanted to see in the smallest area. I should add at this point that nothing ever quite works out the way you plan with Butterflies...

We flew via Ryan Air on Tuesday 29th May from Stanstead to Plovdiv airport. Plovdiv is very much the lesser know airport, with Sofia being the most known airport in SW Bulgaria: however, Plovdiv airport turned out to be a great choice, being a small airport away from the town but with good car-hire and a lot nearer to our destination than Sofia would have been. The only snag being that between booking the flight and flying, Ryan Air had done their usual best to change the flight times completely, so by the time we arrived in Plovdiv on Tuesday night it was already 9pm by the time we left the airport in our hire-car. Satnav is a must in Bulgaria and again proved useful as we made our way to the village of Velingrad where we were staying (a 2 hour drive). Unfortunately the Satnav had no recognition of our hotel or the road it was on, so we spent a very fraught hour in darkness trying to find our Hotel (Velina Spa Hotel): we were really glad to finally find the Hotel that night as the hour struck midnight, and were greeted by a friendly porter who took our bags – a welcome experience..

Wednesday 30th May – Velingrad Forest Walk

It had rained our arrival to Velingrad the night before, but thankfully the rain had stopped by the time Wednesday came round, greeting with nice blue skies. We had a quick breakfast in the Hotel and headed out to the forest on the east side of the hotel – the track into the forest wasn’t entirely clear – with a couple of tracks moving between some houses looking like possible routes - but a very old lady gave us a smile and a directional wave that encouraged us to take the route (the backpacks must have been a giveaway of what we wanted).

I will remember for some time the first proper view of the forest: the morning sunlight fell gently into a cleft between the fir trees, and illuminated the sand and stone next to a small stream that led directly into the forest. We were only a minute or two into the walk and fluttering next to the stream was a Chequered Skipper – a new species for me that I had never managed to see in Britain or even my other trips to Europe. This was a pretty fresh individual and stopped for a few seconds on the grass stems that were still covered with the morning dew. This was a great start as the prime areas book hadn’t even stated that there were Chequered Skippers in this town.


Our first view across Velingrad Village from our hotel Velina Spa, morning of 30th May.


The initial walk into the nearby forest on our first morning (this picture was actually taken later in the day)


Our first butterfly of the trip turned out to be a Chequered Skipper, warming up in the early morning sunshine.


You can still see the dew on the leaves from last nights rainfall...


The view through the Pineforest...

We left the skipper basking in the morning light, and headed into higher into the forest following the main stream. There were plenty of flowers near the sides of the stream and soon we would see our first Wood Whites of the trip, closely attended by a Duke of Burgundy and a few green lizards scampering beside the path. There were plenty of Bugle, Hawthorn and Vetch flowers either by the stream or the path to attract butterflies. We went further into the forest but decided to return to the entrance of the forest as the best spot seemed to be where the trees gave way to more light and deciduous bushes and wild flowers.

Before reaching the edge of the forest we found another big patch of wildflowers and broom bushes where there were a number of Fritillaries flying, probably a Weavers Fritillary and several Pearl-Bordered Fritillaries. Some of the PBF’s were extremely fresh and with the cloud starting to come overhead, they would stop and give me good views either on the bushes or resting on the dirt paths. There were also a number of Sooty Coppers in this patch and some Orange Tips and Skippers, unidentified by me but possibly Malvae (Grizzled).

Michael


Our first Wood Whites of the trip, nectaring from the Bugle flowers on the pathway through the forest.


The Wood Whites were in good numbers and as usual, quite frisky given the choice...


Green Lizards were also quite common, though difficult to get a good view of as they scampered through the undergrowth.


One of the Duke of Burgundy butterflies that seemed to enjoy the same spots further up the forest as the Chequered Skippers.


Another view of the pine forest...


There were also a couple of browns but they were a bit skittish. This one is possibly a Large Wall taking flight.


Every day we would see caterpillars: on the first morning it was a large Moth caterpillar on the forest floor.


The Chequered Skippers weren't stopping in the early morning sunshine and an underside shot was tricky.


What I presume was a black version of the grey squirrel, which seems to be growing in numbers in Europe.


A Sooty Copper, also enjoying the Bugle flowers.


Small Dog-Roses were near the stream edges and during the cloud cover later in the morning, the SPB's would often perch on the bushes.


One of the Pearl Bordered-Fritillaries on the dirt path of the Forest floor. Once they'd stopped you'd hardly know they were there.


An underwing shot of the PBF. Quite difficult to get a good view...


What I am assuming at first glance is a Grizzled Skipper, near the edge of the forest...

[David M]

I was getting worried about you, Michael.

Looks like you've been pretty busy lately. I've a feeling this trip report is going to be stunning.

[Michaeljf]

Hi David,
too much work during the day-job, unfortunately, for me to post. Plus, to be fair, the weather here has been awful (you don't need me to tell you that).
I hope the trip report lives up to the expectation!
Michael

[Michaeljf]

Wednesday 30th May – Velingrad Forest Walk (continued)

By the time we worked our way back to the edge of the Forest it was just after 1pm and there was cloud more cover and storm clouds moving in, so we headed back to the Hotel. In the scrubland on the edges of the road towards the Hotel there were several blues, possibly Idas or Silver-Studded. There was also a number of Fritillary caterpillars on what looked like very large dock leaves amongst the scrub: the caterpillars were quite small but we would continue to see them over the next week, growing larger each day.

We made it back to the Hotel just in time to avoid the rainfall coming in. Although we hoped the storm would pass quickly, it hung about the rest of the afternoon. As it had been a great first morning it didn’t bother me too much, and we needed to get provisions and food in the town: we started in the small supermarkets but soon found a Lidl supermarket on the outskirts of the town, which proved an easy stop for the next week or so whenever we needed drinks, fruit or carbs for our walks. That evening we had dinner in the Hotel, which proved to be friendly with good food and mostly good service. Our room was also nice – it included a bath (heaven as far as I was concerned) so we felt we’d chosen a good spot to stay as we had a very welcome rest on the second night of our visit.

Michael


There was quite a wide variety in the state of the SPB's at the edge of the forest - this one seems completely fresh and vibrant.


An underside shot of one of the Sooty Coppers. This individual seems to either be hiding in the Vetch flowers or getting 'well stuck in'..


This is one of the Blues seen on the route through a bit of scrub back up to our Hotel. Not sure if it's an Idas or Silver-studded.


An underside shot of the same Blue butterfly.


One of the early instars of the Fritillary caterpillars on the underside of what looks like Dock leaves (probably something else though)!


Another of the Skippers going back to our Hotel as the thunderstorms visited.

[Charles Nicol]

Very enjoyable read !! Looking forward to the next instalment...

Charles

[Neil Freeman]

Hi Michael,

I wondered where you had been hiding

Great reports, I look forward to seeing more

Cheers,

Neil F.

[Michaeljf]

Thanks Charles, next installment on it's way Hi Neil - nice to be on here again.

Thursday 31st May – Velingrad Forest Walk

For our second morning in Velingrad we walked to the east again from our hotel. There was light sunshine this morning on our way across the meadow below the hotel, and here again were a few blues and probably Grizzled Skippers again. The previous afternoon after the thunderstorm I had spent a few minutes checking out a nearby orchard and communal ground right next to the river, so we dropped down to here for the first hour. Unfortunately the sun clouded over at this point and the best thing in this area proved to be an abundance of Red-Backed Shrikes, some Swallows flying along the river and a good array of wild flowers such as Vipers Bugloss on the stony banks.


The Velina Spa hotel in the early morning sunshine, on our second day.


The view across the hills from the meadows just below the hotel.


One of the Blues or possibly an Argus on the meadow flowers leaving the hotel.


An underside view of one of the Blues.


Another species in the meadow first thing was this quite fresh Grizzled Skipper (?).


A view of the Orchard area leading to the side of the river. This picture was taken later in the week.


A long view of one of the Red-Backed Shrikes, with the red-house tyled-roofs in the distance.


Seen in the orchard trees, either a juvenile Red-Backed Shrike or possibly a female

My next plan was to head further east of the village as according to the ‘prime butterfly areas’ book this should be good for Poplar Admiral and Apollos: however, the area that was mapped had since been taken over by houses from what may have been a the equivalent of a gypsy colony or local sub-culture on one of the poorest parts of the town. Certainly: the grid-reference in the Abadjiev book may have dated back to writings from as far back as 1926, so some of the butterfly detail is definitely out-of-date.

We then headed back into the forest from the previous day, thinking that maybe we could move to the top of the forest and cross into the eastern side from there, but alas this never happened as further up the tracks in the forest became impassable due to some streams flooding or natural tree falling. We did see similar species to the first day, such as Pearl-bordered Fritillaries, Chequered Skippers and Duke of Burgundy butterflies which in particular seemed more common the further up the woodland we went. There were also quite a few Cockchafer beetles, some fire ant colonies and also a beautiful Fire Salamander, quite difficult to spot in the dappled sunlight on the forest floor. The Salamander was surprisingly quick on its feet and getting a good photograph was surprisingly difficult – a lovely creature nonetheless (apparently individuals can live for 50 years). This was probably the highlight of the day.


One of the Cockchafer Beetles (May Bug) warming up in the forest as the sun started to warm up properly.


The lovely Fire Salamander - it looks easy to spot once seen, but quite easily missed if you're not looking..


The Fire Salamander on the move - surprisingly fast too...


As per the previous day, the forest was mostly populated by Small species such as this Skipper.


Nice clear views of the Duke of Burgundy butterflies as we moved higher into the forest.


More Chequered Skippers as soon as we found clearings with flowers, normally on the banks leading to the main stream.


Another Pearl-Bordered Fritillary enjoying the Bugle flowers.

[Michaeljf]

Thursday 31st May – Afternoon South of Velingrad town and thunderstorms...

After leaving the forest we headed back to the hotel for a quick break, but soon took the car to the South of the village on the 843 road: at a crossing over the river there was a good spot to park and we went walking from here on some wild meadows that were used for a little livestock grazing and not much else. There were plenty of rocky steps further up the meadow slopes with flowering thyme and plenty of Fritillaries here – mostly SPB’s and some Queen of Spain Fritillaries. Following the slopes back into the direct afternoon sunshine there were plenty of Clouded Apollos and Green Hairstreaks sharing the slopes with blues and the Fritillaries (the Clouded Apollos were another species that were not expected to be found near to Velingrad. These slopes seemed a great spot for a number of butterfly species, but unfortunately after about half an hour we were hit by thunderstorms - as per the previous day - and took shelter in some of the forest canopy further up. I hoped that the storms would clear: they did, but only to be followed by a very brief spell of sunshine and then more thunderstorms following quickly on. Soon we decided that maybe the weather had set in for the late afternoon so we headed back to the hotel.

Our second day had been a bit disappointing due to the weather and being unable to see some species that I was hoping for, however, the weather forecast for Friday was good and we planned to head North to the village of Golemo Beliowo which promised several good species according to the Abadjiev book.


The view from the slopes away to the South of Velingrad, with signs of the stormclouds in the distance.


There were plenty of Clouded Apollos on these slopes, often feeding from the Wild Thyme flowers.


Also on these slopes were plenty of Green Hairstreaks amongst the wildflowers.


One of the waves of the thunderclouds as the storms moved over the hills...

[David M]

Your landscape shots are wonderful as usual, Michael.

You certainly had 'unfinished business' with Bulgaria, didn't you?

[Willrow]

Great stuff Michael, right up to your usual high standard and super photo's to support your report.

Now did'nt I tell you how much you were being missed on UK Butterflies and there were you getting all carried away on Overseas Butterflies

More please!!!

Bill

[Michaeljf]

HI Bill / David,

Thanks for the compliments. Regarding the 'unfinished business' in Bulgaria - it's still unfinished really, because although I saw some more excellent species during this trip - I still missed quite a few that I was trying to see (same old..). So I still think a third trip is needed if I want to collate my records fully...can my wife take it? Can the bank afford it? Am I pushing my luck..? I'm sorry I haven't been on UKB much this year - but there's really been too much in the way of work commitments this year...it is nice to have been missed though and to feel part of the community.

Michael

[Michaeljf]

Friday 1st June – Golemo Beliowo (Golyamo belovo)

On to June and the third day of the trip. The forecast was quite good for the whole day, so we got up early and took the drive further Southwest to the village of Golemo Beliowo (or Golyamo belovo depending on your reference). After passing through the alpine village of Yundola, most of the latter part of the drive is directly through a steep river valley, which is quite beautiful but a bit difficult to make any inroads into (there are just a few dirt passing points for the traffic).

The road through the Yadenitsa Valley to Golyamo is in surprisingly good condition (compared to the constant pot-holes on most of the other roads in Bulgaria) so the drive took us about an hour. We did stop at one of the larger spots on the side of the road here: there was a reasonable space by the river, and here in the early morning sunshine were a whole host of small species: some Small Tortoiseshells, a male and female Sooty Copper, a Holly Blue, some Green Hairstreaks, a few fast-flying Fritillaries and Commas, Mallow and Dingy Skippers and an Eastern Short-Tailed Blue. It’s always interesting to see the varied wildflowers that will invade a cleared space by the road: there may well have been even more species here but we pressed on towards the Golemo Beliowo village.


The first butterfly of the morning on one of the roadside stops - a Male Sooty Copper.


Underside of the Sooty Copper, warming up in the morning sunshine.


A Eastern Short-Tailed Blue nectaring on some of the roadside wildflowers.


Is this just a European Black Bee? I should know the names of these ones as I often see them abroad..


What I presume is a Dingy Skipper, looking slightly unusual to me in the early warm morning sunshine rays.


A Mallow Skipper seen on a second stop before getting to Golomo Beliowo.


Another early morning butterfly at the roadside stops were Green Hairstreaks.

The Village of Golomo Beliowo turned out to be very picturesque and a reminded me of the village of Pirin that we had visited on our 2011 trip. Golemo Beliowo has a typical Bulgarian mountain village layout, with small houses flanking the banks of the main river, with the river running right through the middle of the village. Behind the main streets there were gentle valley slopes with a few domestic crops sweeping up into the mountains.


The picturesque Golomo Beliowo village with the river running through the middle of the houses.


The dirt path leading into the woodland slopes - looking back towards the village of Golomo Beliowo.

We had only just entered the village when I spotted what looked like a good dirt track route up into the lower hills, (luckily with parking on the main street not too far away). As soon as we left the houses and started walking on the track there was an abundance of butterflies straight off: some Queen of Spain Fritillaries, Scarce Swallowtails, Small Tortoiseshells and a few Eastern Festoons and Nettle-Tree butterflies, the former feeding on Salvia flowers, and the latter often stopping on the path taking up salts. There was also a good swathe of Fennel plants in the slopes between the path and the river. Because it was already quite hot (around 11 am) the Swallowtails and the Eastern Festoons were already too quick and flighty for photographs. Both the Eastern Festoons and the Nettle-Tree butterflies were new species to me so this was a really good start to the walk as far as I was concerned! The sight of full sunshine and blue skies was even better news….


My first view of a Nettle-Tree butterfly, a new species to me. Either they liked obtaining minerals or they just liked the path for a rest....


Another Nettle-Tree butterfly resting in one of the shrubs along the path.


Worth another photo - this Nettle-Tree butterfly nectars on the Bramble flowers.
A bit like Graylings they would conceal the colour of their forewings very quickly on landing.

[Michaeljf]

Friday 1st June – Golemo Beliowo (Golyamo belovo) - continued

Following the track further up to the mountain slopes from the village of Golemo Beliowo there were plenty more of wildflowers alongside the dirt path and numerous butterflies, bees and small birds. We could hear several Cuckoos calling very near our path and Jays would often fly between the woodland trees. Nearer the top of the walk (where the land became a gentle plateau between the mountains and some fallow wildflower fields) there were other species such as some fresh Cardinal, Glanville and Queen of Spain Fritillaries, Russian Heaths, Black-Veined Whites, Idas Blues, Green Hairstreaks, Skippers, Small Heaths and a few Bath Whites (or Eastern Bath Whites).


The view back towards the Village as we follow the dirt track into the mountain meadows.


Our first view of a very fresh Cardinal Fritillary. These were definitely favouring the upper slopes away from the village.


Another view of the village of Golemo Beliowo. Notice the abundance of the Salvia flowers amongst the wide range of wildflowers in bloom.


A female Common Blue near to the dirt track as we move further up.


The Cardinal Fritillary is easily identified from the Silver-Washed Fritillary via the reddish-patches and duller olive-green underside to the wings.


A nice close view of the Cardinal Fritillary. In the sushine they didn't stop on one flowerhead for long.


Our first view of a lovely Glanville Fritillary near the upper meadows.


A closer and clear face-on view of the Glanville Fritillary.


A Russian Heath sheltering on the Blackthorn bush as some clouds move in.


A pair of mating Idas Blues (?) are easy to photograph when the breeze falls in duller conditions.

There was also on one of the Blackthorn bushes our first view of a communal web of Black-Veined White caterpillars (we would see more of these communal nests at various points throughout the week). At this point there were a few ominous dark clouds cover coming over the mountains so we started back to the car, seeing our first Common Glider on the edges of the path as we went back (another new species for me). With a bit of lucky timing we got back to the car just as the thunderstorm hit and quite a heavy downpour.


There were only a few of these (Eastern) Bath Whites in the meadows. They were moving quickly even in the duller light.


A nice view of the Eastern Bath White when it had settled.


The view across the mountain meadows, with some rainclouds in the distance.


The communal web of Black-Veined White caterpillars on a Blackthorn bush.


Before we head back to the car to avoid the incoming rain, a long-range view of a Common Glider.

[Michaeljf]

Friday 1st June – Golemo Beliowo (Golyamo belovo) - continued...

After escaping the incoming thunderstorm, we sat in the car for about three-quarters of an hour as the storm came and went, along with some very strong winds. We watched some Swallows and Swifts above us and they seemed to be a good clue to how quickly the sky would clear again, depending on the height they were flying at! Some blue sky appeared quite quickly after the rain, and we went back along the same path – this time the Eastern Festoons and Scarce Swallowtails were a little bit slower in the slightly cooler weather, and I managed to get some good photos and have some nice close views of these pretty butterflies.


After the storm, the few Eastern Festoon butterflies that came out were a bit slower than earlier, and now could be photographed.


A few of the underwings of the Eastern Festoon shows similiarities to Apollos..


The Scarce Swallowtails were also easier to see now as they took nectar from wild Salvia flowers.


The best view of the Eastern Festoon.


Some fresh Queen-of-Spain Fritillaries were also now willing to bask as the sun returned.


Along with the close-up of the Festoon, this underside shot of the Queen-of-Spain is one of my favourites of the day.

Further up the track we had another lighter shower and we sheltered in the trees for a few minutes before visiting the top fields again, seeing some more Skippers and Glanville Fritillaries and generally taking in the lovely mountain air and views before returning again to the car by late afternoon.


Sheltering in the trees we came across this lovely moth caterpillar - possibly of the Gypsy moth.


One of the Skippers now present in the wet wildflower meadow (possibly a Large Grizzled Skipper?).


Another of the Skippers in the wildflower meadow a Grizzled Skipper - at a guess.


One of the Small Heaths resting amongst the wet grass at the wildflower meadow.


Before leaving the walk, an underside view of one of the Glanville Fritillaries.

On the way back to Velingrad we stopped briefly in the mountain village of Yundola where we had a quick walk. Here we would see some lovely orchids in the grassy fields, along with a few Small Tortoiseshells, Clouded Yellows and a Northern Wall Brown butterfly before going back to our hotel. Again we dined in the Hotel’s restaurant that evening which was very welcome after a busy but excellent day, one of the best of our trip.


One of the Alpine meadows full of Orchids - at the village of Yundola on the way back to Velingrad.


One of the Orchids in the Wildflower meadow at Yundola.


This Northern Wall Brown, along with some Small Tortoiseshells, were the last butterflies to be seen on a very successful day...

[Ian Pratt]

Some really tremendous photos, particularly the chequered skipper,eastern festoon and the underside QoS fritillary. Great reading. Thanks.
Ian

[Michaeljf]

Saturday, 2nd June – Dobrinishte and Eleshnitsa

As Saturday was predicted as another good weather day, we made the two-plus-hours trip down to the foot of the Pirin Mountains near Bankso, where we had stayed in our first trip to Bulgaria at the end of June 2011. I planned to visit several areas here that had been successful in the previous trip, and although the time-frame was different by about three or four weeks I was intrigued as to what species would be flying in these locations.

First up on the list was a woodland meadow, encircled by trees and sitting right by the river running up to what is known as the Gotse Delchev Hut. The river meadow is about 10 minutes drive up the mountain road from Dobrinishte village and the turn-off to the left of the road has a small dirt path with a space for about 3 cars to park. In the previous year this meadow had been excellent for Fritillaries and Coppers and had one of the few (faded) Clouded Apollos that I had seen in the 2011 visit. This year the meadow was still in good condition with plenty of wildflowers and very damp grass (this was the first day that my boots would really get a soaking).

There were immediately some fresh Clouded Apollos entering the meadow, to be followed by a range of small and medium-sized butterflies in the form of Large Wall Browns, Green Hairstreaks, Chequered Skippers, Pearl Bordered Fritillaries, Sooty Coppers, Large Whites, Orange Tips and a few Duke of Burgundy butterflies on the low-lying branches on the edges of the river banks. There were also a few of the (spring version) of the Map butterfly – the first of this species in the trip. The Map butterflies were not keen to stop and would fly as soon as approached, so it was the best I could do to get a couple of ID shots. The meadow also had a lovely Fritillary caterpillar that looked quite near to being ready to turn into its pupae stage.


A view of the meadow right on the banks of the river towards the Gotse Delchev Hut.


First up in the field this morning were plenty of Clouded Apollos.


The Clouded Apollos like gorging themselves on any flowers they are keen on...


There were several Duke of Burgundy butterflies doing their usual thing of patrolling an area via a favourite chosen perch.


Here was one of the few half-decent photographs I managed to get of one of the Map butterflies.


As per the other days, we would again see some Chequered Skippers.


One of the Large Wall Brown butterflies, with a Green Hairstreak just visible in the background.


The 'nicely plump' Fritillary caterpillar in the middle of the meadow.

[Michaeljf]

Saturday, 2nd June – Dobrinishte and Eleshnitsa (continued)

The river meadow had been a slight disappointment as it was a bit of a repeat of the other species seen so far on the trip. So we then drove further up the road opposite where the track opens up to the east side: from here we took a short walk following these sand tracks which lead to some Conifer trees. There were several Dingy and Grizzled Skippers next to the asphalt road and on the sand banks there were plenty of Ringlets and Scarce Swallowtails feeding of the mud patches. However, the fields next to the mud paths weren’t as full of species as I’d expected. Going further up the road nearer to the Gotse Delchev hut we dropped down into the (very wet) meadow fields but now the cloud layer had come over a little – slowing down the mornings butterflies - all we would see were some more Skippers, Pearl-Bordered Fritillaries, a few Sooty Coppers, some Black-Veined Whites and the aforementioned Ringlets. And still there were no traces of Apollos which I had hoped might be flying.


The view up towards the Pirin Mountains. The fields here were dominated by what looked like Broom bushes.


A number of butterflies were enjoying the sand and mud, here are several Scarce Swallowtails.


One of the many Ringlets in the fields and on the sand paths.
As per the previous year this may be a Woodland Ringlet?


Not a great photo by any means, but one of the few with an interior view of the Woodland Ringlet.


As per the previous year Sooty Coppers were common in the wet Mountain meadows.


Another Skipper in the same meadows: again I have a problem with the ID so it may be Pyrgus malvae.


At least I did manage an underside shot on this occasion, due to the incoming cloud belt!

As the species here were also slightly disappointing, we started to drove back home to Velingrad – but this time would stop near the village of Eleshnitsa, which was only about 20 minutes drive back via the mountain route. We had stopped briefly here in the morning drive (for me to respond to the call of nature) and I had thought at the time it could be a good spot. As soon as we stopped the car on the side of the road, we noticed a White Stork in the fields nearby, hunting for food. The Stork was more interested in what it could find as opposed to us watching, and the Stork would come fairly close to the roadside verge. Soon it snapped up a green lizard, and then wandered on again for a few more minutes, before finally flying to another nearby meadow. This was a very nice interlude and probably the highlight of the day!


Our first view of the White Stork in the fields near the village of Eleshnitsa.


Slightly surprisingly, the White Stork manages to find a green lizard in the long grass.


After the meal the Stork is off to another nearby meadow.

After watching the stork we tracked a dirt path from the main road – this led to a single dirt track bordered with a steep slope which was covered with the thickest variety of wildflowers I had seen since we’d arrived in Bulgaria. These flowers were so tightly packed it was like walking through the local alpine section in a garden centre back home (!). There were plenty of butterflies here but all flying to fast to stop, but they include Queen of Spain Fritillaries and several Blues which I presumed were both Common and Silver-Studded Blues. We followed this single dirt path for about 20 minutes and found another colony of Eastern Festoons - here we also took time to look back at some excellent views of the Pirin Mountain range. Unfortunately the cloudy weather had now set in so it was a good time to head back home, as we still had nearly a two-hour journey over some very pot-holed roads. I wish I’d spent more time in this area so I made a promise that we’d return here later in the week (if Karen could take the two-hour drive again). Keep in mind I would have liked to have visited Kresna Gorge while in this area but that would’ve added another hour on to our journey in both directions at minimum – and I don’t think either of us were up to that!


The view up one of the steep banks off the dirt path around Eleshnitsa, this one had more Broom rather than the wildflowers mentioned.
Unfortunately I only turned round to see some of the best views after the cloud had come over again!


There were plenty of Blues on these slopes though most were flying too quickly for ID's.


At the furthest section of the Eleshnitsa walk there were also some more of the Eastern Festoons.

[Michaeljf]

Sunday 3rd June – Velingrad meadows (south) and route to Lepinitsa cave

After travelling quite a bit for the last two days, we decided to stay local on the 5th day. We returned to the south of the village on the 843 road, near the river crossing and hillside meadows I’d briefly visited during stormy weather on the Thursday.

We started fairly early and our first sighting was not a butterfly but a Hawfinch scrabbling for food on the shaded rocks on the hillside. I’d noticed there were plenty of black beetles here on the Thursday visit - so I wouldn’t have been surprised if the Hawfinch was cracking these open for food. After the Hawfinch flew off, we walked down to the edges of the river before returning to the thyme-covered rocky slopes above. Here there were several clouded yellows and a range of blues and the same species as previously seen (Queen of Spain Fritillary, Pearl-Bordered Fritillary, Green Hairstreak, Silver-Studded Blues, Common Blues, Small Heaths and the occasional Duke of Burgundy). Although there wasn’t any particularly new species the sun was out and it was still a nice spot to spend the morning: on the way back to the car we saw a Hoopoe fly over briefly, though it was too far away for a photograph.


The view of the Velingrad hills to the south of the village next to the river.


The early morning views of what is probably a Hawfinch looking for insect food by the path.


Another view of the Hawfinch amongst the dewy grass on the rock path.


One of the first blues this morning, most likely a Silver-Studded Blue.


An inside shot of wings of the Silver-Studded Blue.


As well as blues on the slopes there were quite a few Queen of Spain Fritillaries nectaring on the Thyme flowers.


As per the previous visit to this area, there were plenty of Green Hairstreaks on the slopes.


I'm presuming this could be a female Silver-Studded Blue.


An underside shot of the same Blue.


In the strong morning sunshine, some nice views across the rocks into the Bulgarian landscape.


Another view of the landscape showing an abandoned stone building and the river beyond.

[Michaeljf]

Sunday 3rd June – Velingrad meadows (south) and route to Lepinitsa cave (continued)

It was quite hot now and we drove further south towards a walking path that would eventually lead to the Lepinitsa Cave, a locally-known spot of geological interest. There was quite a strong low river stream to cross before joining the main path towards the cave - though initially I spent time in the meadows here were there were some Mazarine Blues, Grizzled Skippers and plenty of Clouded Apollos feeding on whatever nectar sources they could find. There was also a Silver-Washed Fritillary caterpillar feeding amongst the low grass and the possible sighting of a Lesser Purple Emperor in the trees but I couldn’t be absolutely sure of the ID from a fly-by at such a distance above my head.

The walk to the Lepinitsa cave was quite long and humid in the early afternoon heat, and after about three-quarters of an hour of walking we turned back as it was unlikely we would see any more species than we were already seeing along the path: these included our first White Admiral, a single Common Glider, and a few Commas, Chequered Skippers, Speckled Woods, Walls and Pearl-Bordered Fritillaries (again). After returning from this walk, I spent a bit longer in the meadow next to the river again, and here there were several Glanville Fritillaries (at first sight I wasn’t sure on the ID) and some Woodland Ringlets to add to the previous species.


At the edges of the paths leading from the car-parking space, there were several Ringlets.


In the riverside meadows towards the Lepinitsa cave - a Silver-Washed Fritillary caterpillar.


Also in the meadows, a Mazarine Blue amongst the flowers.


There were plenty of purple Vetch flowers and these attracted a range of butterfies including these Grizzled Skippers.


An underside view of one of the Grizzled Skipper butterflies.


The Vetch flowers gave me a good close view of the Clouded Apollo butterflies feeding.


A nice clear underside view of one of the Pearl-Bordered Fritillaries walking along the Lepinitsa cave track.


Also in the same area there were some pretty purple mountain flowers with the Chequered Skippers feeding on them.


This Clouded Apollo looks slightly different, with some yellow markings on the body.


One of the Glanville Fritillaries back at the riverside meadows - I wasn't 100% sure of the ID at the time...


A view of the underside of the Glanville Fritillary amongst some Speedwell flowers.


Finally one of the Chequered Skippers stops long enough for a clear view of the wings underside.


One of the Ringlets as we left the area for the afternoon.

After a quick break and an ice-cream at our hotel, we finished the day investigating a small area of scrub on the east side of the Village just off the main road towards Batak. There were a few new butterflies here including a Russian Heath, and there was also large colony of Hairstreaks fluttering around the edges of the Blackthorn bushes – these were mostly staying above my head on the local white flowers. There were a few that came down briefly and they turned out to be Black Hairstreaks. The sky had now turned cloudy as a late afternoon thunderstorm came in, so we headed back to the hotel and another meal at the local restaurant. Although the day hadn’t come up with any real surprises it had been a pleasant day in the sun nonetheless, though we had already come to the half-way point of the holiday.


First view of a Russian Heath which was sharing the bushes near to the Black Hairstreak colony.


Most of the Black Hairstreaks were staying well above my head on the white flowers of the local trees.


Finally one or two Black Hairstreaks would stop on the Blackthorn bushes long enough for a closer view.


A view of one of the White Storks that were using the structures next to the petrol station as a nest.

[Michaeljf]

Monday 4th June – Trip to Batak Lake

Our second week in Bulgaria, and another early morning start, this time we drove from Velingrad to Batak lake, which is under an hours drive just on the outskirts of the town of Batak, to the South-East of Velingrad. In fact we had probably driven past Batak Lake on the way to our hotel during our arrival in Bulgaria, but at the time it would have been too dark and we wouldn’t have even known the lake was even there. This morning however the light was clear with a bright blue sky and the lake looked absolutely stunning: there was hardly any breeze and the lake was much larger than we could have imagined.

We managed to find a small parking spot on the side of the main road past the lake, and walked down to the waters edge: it was no surprise but all the meadows here were extremely wet, accounting for some of the battering that my boots were getting every day...the meadows were absolutely full of wildflowers and we could hear the sound of Bullfrogs from the waters edge. Perhaps surprisingly there were not as many butterflies in these meadows as I expected: there were abundant Small Tortoiseshells, Clouded Yellows and various Whites (including some more Wood Whites), but again the larger butterflies were bemusingly absent. There were however Glanville, Queen of Spain and possibly Weaver’s Fritillaries, along with some Mazarine and Common Blues and some Dingy Skippers. Most of the small shrubs in this area seemed to be Dog-Rose and some Hawthorn bushes and there were plenty of bees around the flowers and a plentiful supply of Red-Backed Shrikes in the bushes. We did see the occasional bird of prey over the lake but none stopped close enough for photos.


Our first view of the morning of Batak Lake, breathtaking in the calm morning sunlight.


Red-Backed Shrikes were abundant in the small bushes on the slopes towards the lake.


The first butterflies we saw on the meadows here were Fritillaries. Not sure if this is a Weavers Fritilary..


As per every other day, caterpillars were easy to find - this one a Heath Fritillary caterpillar.


An interesting range of day-flying moths were also about.


Although the species on the slopes weren't unusual, it was nice to see so many Small Tortoiseshells.


A view across the lake at Batak.


This was as many Clouded Yellows as we'd seen in any location, so it was easier (not easy) to get photos of them!


A view of the many Orchids that were amongst the flower meadows next to the lake.


A Mazarine Blue feeding from one of the Buttercup flowers.


A Glanville Fritillary also attracted to the meadow flowers by the lake.


The view near the top of the meadows leading to the lake, with the abundance of flowers more obvious.


A Dingy Skipper on one of the grass-heads as we leave the lake meadows.