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Rochetaillee, Val d’Isere, Rhone Alpes, France – June 2011

We stayed in Rochetaillee, near le Bourg-d’Oisans in a similar set up to last year. We had a static caravan again, although the French call them mobile homes. The area was stunning, with amazing views in every direction.

Here’s the website of the campsite - http://www.camping-le-chateau.co.uk/

Rochetaillee is at 700m and the area was very much geared up to skiing in the winter and cycling in the summer; we saw hundreds of cyclists while we were there.

The area was extremely rich and varied in butterflies and if you haven’t been and are thinking of going one day, all I can say is do it, you won’t regret it!

I was thinking how best to format this report and as I saw so much I felt that rather than groups of butterfly families like last year, a diary format would work better.

As ever, I think I’m there with the ID’s, but please feel free to correct me if I am wrong. Also, my thanks in advance to those who have helped with ID requests and once again, the websites of Guy Padfield, Roger Gibbons and Matt Rowlings have been extremely helpful.

Thursday 9th June – Greenford to West Malling

We stayed at friends in Kent overnight to help with getting up early for the ferry. House Martins were wheeling in the sky above their house.

Friday 10th June – West Malling to Dijon

A Kestrel was hunting on the downs near Dover and a Jackdaw was stealing food at the ferry terminal, along with Herring Gulls. While sailing to France we saw Greater Black Backed and Black Headed Gulls on the crossing along with 2 Cormorants near Calais.

Between Calais and Dijon (some were at service areas), the following birds were seen; Swallow, Swift, Kestrel, Buzzard, Crow, Magpie, Wood Pigeon, Starling, Pied Wagtail and at least 15 white butterflies.

We stopped at Aire Du Sommesous on the A31 and I had a quick walk. 1 Large White, 1 Green Veined White and 25+ Small Whites were in a grass verge. House Sparrows were common at all service stops.

Between that service stop and Dijon I saw the familiar site of a crow attacking a buzzard and later the unfamiliar site of a Kestrel doing the same!

Having arrived at Dijon, I noticed a Cinnabar when we went out for dinner and there was a Spinach moth outside our hotel door.

Butterflies added today:
Large White
Small White
Green Veined White

Saturday 11th June – Dijon to Rochetaillee

Having got the bulk of the journey out of the way yesterday, we could take it easy today, not rush and have plenty of stops. The sun was out too. Birds seen from the car included Red Kite and a very dark Kite – perhaps a Black Kite?

At Aire La Ferte on the A6 I saw 1 female Green Veined White and 2 Small Whites. Added Great Tit to birds seen.

Further south on the A6, we stopped at Aire du Drace. Skylarks could be heard from the car park while Goldfinches were also seen. We saw 1 male Small White and then something that wasn’t white but blue…a fresh second brood Holly Blue!

Later on we stopped at Aire de Mionnay, on the A46, near Lyon. I think it must be the best stop I have ever had at the services... We had lunch and noticed a very fresh female Large White on some Lavender. She was joined by another extremely battered female and a male Small White.
Over near a little wooded area we sat on a bank having a drink. There was a lot of bramble, although mostly finished flowering. The sun came out and the place came alive with butterflies; there were whites everywhere, 4 Meadow Brown, 1 Small Heath, 5 Holly Blue, 3 very fresh summer Peacocks, 1 Small Tortoiseshell, a largeish (but not DG size) unidentified Fritillary, 1 Weaver’s Fritillary and then……just as I was going back something large and dark flew past and caught my eye. I followed and watched a Lesser Purple Emperor settle on the side of the kerb! At the services! I think it was a female, f.clytie as there was no purple and she was quite orange.

Not even at our eventual destination and 10 species of butterfly seen, 2 of which were new to me.

Butterflies added today:
Holly Blue
Meadow Brown
Peacock
Weaver’s Fritillary
Small Tortoiseshell
Small Heath
Lesser Purple Emperor
Now you don’t get that at Reading services on the M4 do you…!

We arrived at the campsite about 4pm after an unnecessary detour into Grenoble (damn you AA route planner…). The views were stunning – completely surrounded by mountains. We had a walk around the site (saw 1 Large White) and I checked out some places to go to within walking distance but that was enough for today.

French service stations are known for ilia!! They often hang around the Ladies' for some reason, as a result of which I've risked arrest on occasion...

Your Clytie looks good for a male, but if you saw no purple from any angle, then It must be a female.

Guy

padfield wrote:French service stations are known for ilia!! They often hang around the Ladies' for some reason, as a result of which I've risked arrest on occasion...

Your Clytie looks good for a male, but if you saw no purple from any angle, then It must be a female.

I wonder why!? (They like service stations, not you hanging around the ladies, Guy)

No purple seen at all, although thinking about it, do females take minerals in the way males do? If not, It must have been a male.

Cheers

Lee

padfield wrote:French service stations are known for ilia!! They often hang around the Ladies' for some reason, as a result of which I've risked arrest on occasion...

LOL! If you gave them that excuse they'd probably be more likely to charge you for taking the p!$$ (pardon the pun).

Great diary, Lee, I look forward to reading more.

Sunday 12th June - Part 1

Having crashed out last night we woke early and checked out the view as the sun was breaking over the mountains. Here’s a taste:
I’d noticed a powerful spotlight last night and went over to see if any moths were still there this morning. Sure enough there was a Large Emerald which promptly flew away when I returned with the camera.

We wanted to go to the supermarket but by 9am it was already roasting and I opted to check out the large lay-by and meadow opposite at the end of the road where you turn off the D1091 to get to the campsite.

This was a wise move as the lay-by was alive with butterflies. There was big patch of bramble at one end where between 09.15 and 10.30 the following were seen; 1 female Large White, 1 female Green Veined White, 1 female Common Blue, 3 male Common Blue, 1 male Scarce Copper, 1 Specked Wood (ssp aegeria), 20+ Meadow Brown, 15+ Ringlet, 3 Pearly Heath, 1 Large Wall, 1 Marbled White, 1 Dark Green Fritillary, 5 Marbled Fritillary, 1 Large Skipper.
The meadow on the other side of the road looked very promising being full of wild flowers but actually the lay-by was better! Maybe it was a little too early. In the meadow I saw; 1 male Common Blue, 1 Marbled White, 3 Small White, 1 Green Veined White, 1 Large White, 3 Large Skipper and an unidentified SPB size Fritillary.

Species added this morning:
Speckled Wood (ssp aegeria)
Common Blue
Scarce Copper
Ringlet
Pearly Heath
Marbled White
Large Wall
Dark Green Fritillary
Marbled Fritillary
Large Skipper

Sunday 12th June - Part 2

Having passed a large supermarket on the way from Grenoble we set off along the valley. Unfortunately it was closed but we had driven past many areas that looked worth exploring later.

After lunch that’s exactly what I did. I took the car and first stopped at the lay-by at the end of the road. Between 13.00 and 14.00 I saw my first ever 2 Black Veined Whites, 5 Large Whites, 3 Small Whites, 2 Green Veined Whites, 1 False Heath Fritillary, 1 unidentified large Fritillary, 2 unidentified Largeish Blues, 10+ Marbled Fritillary, 1 Small Tortoiseshell, 4 Pearly Heath, 25+ Meadow Brown, 15+ Ringlet, 2 Common Blue, 1 Chapman’s Blue, 1 Scarce Copper, 2 Large Skipper.

I also found this spider that had captured a bee:
Here's the view from the lay-by, looking east:
After an hour I drove along to the next lay-by, perhaps half a mile along the road. As I parked I could see a black and white butterfly just in front of the car – it was this White Admiral!
A track led into the woodland and through to a clearing where more Black Veined Whites were present. I was following one when right in front of me landed a High Brown Fritillary, taking minerals. It flew up and down the track seemingly oblivious to me. My first one - what a sight!
Also in the clearing was a female Clouded Yellow egg laying, 3 Marbled Fritillaries, 3 Large Skipper, 1 Small or Essex Skipper and 1 Small White.
A track led off into the woodland and it arrived on a slope strewn with rocks and boulders and water channels in the ground – obviously a recent flood from the mountain. In this clearing were 1 White Admiral, 1 Small Tortoiseshell, 1 Comma, an unidentified Fritillary, 3 Black Veined White, 1 Large White, 2 Speckled Wood and a Magpie moth.
He was still there when I came back to the car.

Sunday 12th June - Part 3

After an hour or so I set off again for one more location before heading back. Further along the D1091 there was a small right turn which led to a rickety iron bridge crossing La Romanche. It looked like the sort of bridge that might give way at any second but I chanced it and despite making some perilous clanging noises I made it over in one piece. Here’s the view from the bridge:
Just after the bridge was an area of wasteland, scrub, wildflowers and woodland clearing which after parking and exploring I found led to a quarry.

This again proved very rich, with the bramble and wildflowers helping no end; species seen here – 25+Black Veined White, 5 Large White, 5 Small White, 2 male Southern Small White, 1 Dark Green Fritillary, 1 High Brown Fritillary, 30+ Heath Fritillary, 20+ Marbled Fritillary, 10+ Lesser Marbled Fritillary, 1 Comma, 2 Meadow Brown, 15+ Ringlet, 2 Small Heath, 4 Pearly Heath (including 2 courting), 1 female and 1 male Purple Shot Copper, 5 male Common Blue, 5 male Chapman’s Blue, 2 Small Blue, 5 Large Skipper, 10+ Small Skipper and 5+ Essex Skipper.

One of the many Marbled Fritillaries:
Some Heath Fritillaries, one with some weird pale patches:
One of the Black Veined Whites:
At the middle of the waste ground was a muddy patch and I enjoyed my first experience of ‘mud puddling’. There were about 12 Black Veined Whites, a couple of Large, Small and Southern Small Whites, 2 Small Blues, several Small and Essex Skippers, a Heath Fritillary and even the Dark Green Fritillary getting in on the act. It was amazing to watch.

Several more Black Veined Whites and a male Southern Small White:
Species added this afternoon:
Black Veined White
False Heath Fritillary
Chapman’s Blue
White Admiral
High Brown Fritillary
Clouded Yellow
Comma
Small Skipper
Essex Skipper
Southern Small White
Heath Fritillary
Lesser Marbled Fritillary
Purple Shot Copper
Small Blue

Birds seen or heard today; Honey Buzzard, Blackbird, Chiff Chaff.

Hi Lee,
lovely to see all those butterflies mud-puddling. I'd add the region to all the places I have to go, but I already have a very long list!
I see you have been going to this area before? You seem to be pretty familiar and / or lucky with the territory..
Michael

Hi Michael,

I would recommend this place goes near the top of the list
Even though I have a similar list of places to visit, I will certainly, one day, be going back here.

I hadn't been before and didn't know the area. Roger Gibbons had suggested a few places to try further afield but they are still to come in the report. Eveything seen so far was within a mile or two of the campsite and pure luck on my part. I just investigated likely looking areas. And I did get lucky - much more to follow.....

Cheers

Lee

Very entertaining blog Lee !!
I liked the mud-puddling pics very much

Charles

Thanks Charles

I was mesmerised by the mud-puddling, I'd never seen it before!

Cheers

Lee

Monday 13th June

A few moths were on the fence by the spot light this morning, including a female Mottled Beauty which again promptly flew away as I approached.

We drove to Allemont this morning to try and find a market but with no joy. We enjoyed stunning views along the valley though and I found some more promising places to explore.

Next we headed to le Bourg D’Oisans, our nearest town. We found it a bit soulless to be honest and most people looked a bit glum. It was very much geared towards cycling and skiing and so maybe this is its closed season. Anyway we found a supermarket and then came back to base for lunch. A Marbled White joined us, alighting on the table as we were eating and 1 Large White, 1 Small White and a female Common Blue were in the garden.

I’d noticed some further areas to look at past the quarry site yesterday and later, once again ventured over the rickety iron bridge. I stopped briefly to see if any more mud-puddling was going on but not this time. In 5 minutes there though I clocked 1 White Admiral, 3 Marbled Fritillaries, 4 Heath Fritillaries, 1 male Brimstone, 10+ Black Veined Whites, 5 Large Whites, 2 Small Whites, 2 Purple Shot Copper, 2 male Common Blue, 2 Pearly Heath and 2 Small Skipper.

Before I got out of the car here though I wanted to take a photo of the bridge but my memory card wouldn’t load any new shots – it wasn’t full, just wouldn’t write. Luckily I always carry a spare and I have a laptop if things get that bad. Later I re-formatted the card after downloading to the laptop and it seemed to be fine.

A little further up the road a track led into some woodland and through into a clearing. Seen here; 5 Black Veined White, 2 Marbled Fritillary, 2 Heath Fritillary, 2 Small Heath, 1 male Common Blue, 1 Small Skipper.

Opposite the track was a huge flower meadow. It was alive with crickets and grasshoppers which flew in all directions with every step I took, which made following butterflies very difficult. I also had several unwanted visitors crawling up the inside of my jeans…

The meadow was huge and alive with insects. I only covered one end of it and I saw: 30+ Black Veined Whites, 20+ Large Whites, 5 Small Whites, 1 Green Veined White, 2 male Berger’s Clouded Yellow, 1 surprisingly very fresh male Orange Tip, 10+ Common Blue, 1 male and 1 female Mazarine Blue, 1 Amanda’s Blue, 1 Small Blue, 3 Purple Shot Copper, 1 White Admiral, 1 High Brown Fritillary, 1 Dark Green Fritillary, 2 Marbled Fritillary, 15+ Heath Fritillary, 1 Large Wall, 10+ Ringlet, 1 Meadow Brown, 4 Small Heath, 2 Pearly Heath, 15+ Marbled White, 5 Small Skipper, 5 Essex Skipper.

One end of the meadow:
One of the Heath Fritillaries:
A confused High Brown Fritillary (I think) with a Large Wall.
Here she is, free of harassment:
I also saw 2 very different (to each other, 1 large, 1 small, but both not our UK one) Grizzled Skippers which I couldn’t get anywhere near photographing due to the crickets. However…what should I see floating above the meadow but an Apollo!!!

This was a species that I had in my mind that I may see but nothing had quite prepared me for seeing one for real. I watched as it glided over the meadow and up over the adjacent cliff face. While watching this I noticed a higher plateau that over looked the meadow I was in. The Apollo had flown up there so off I set.

After climbing up a sheer slope I noticed a path that led up here from where I had parked the car. Easier for next time though – and I will certainly be coming back here! The path led to what I can only describe as an alpine meadow, bordered by cliffs on one side and woodland on the other. Within no more than 50 metres the fauna had changed to more rocky plants and herbs and lots of flowers. The whole place smelt lovely. I’d imagine it’s what Guy’s back garden is like!

Here's a view of the alpine meadow.
There were at least 8 Apollos nectaring here and they were quite easy to approach.
Whilst watching one I saw something else at my feet and found this female Large Blue egg laying! I now tried even harder to watch where I stepped as this was right on the path.
I promptly found somewhere to sit and take it all in. If it’s possible, there was too much to see, the view in every direction was filled with butterflies.

My first ever Knapweed Fritillary:
Weaver's Fritillary:
In what was becoming a theme for the day, I also came across this confused Black Veined White, not being very nice to an Apollo:
Less confused Purple Shot Coppers:
Mazarine Blue:
Near the trees was the biggest pile of, ahem, crap I have ever seen. I would not like to meet whatever left that behind! Enjoying the feast were several Fritillaries; 2 Dark Green, 1 Heath and 1 Meadow.
Heath Fritillary on the left, Meadow Fritillary on the right:
Finally, a Spotted Fritillary caterpillar:
Seen in the alpine meadow: 8 Apollo, 25+ Black Veined White, 10+ Large White, 1 Berger’s Clouded Yellow, 5 White Admiral, 1 Silver Washed Fritillary, 2 Dark Green Fritillary, 6 Marbled Fritillary, 2 Weaver’s Fritillary, 30+Heath Fritillary, 2 False Heath Fritillary, 1 Knapweed Fritillary, 1 Meadow Fritillary, 1 Spotted Fritillary, 3 Large Wall, 5 Meadow Brown, 20+ Ringlet, 5 Pearly Heath, 4 Purple Shot Copper, 2 Large Blue, 2 Mazarine Blue, 3 Large Skipper, 2 each Small Skipper and Essex Skipper.

As I got back to the car I met a lovely old French couple who were looking at me quizzically as I watched a Marbled Fritillary dance around my feet. I pointed it out and said ‘Le Papillion!’ to which the gent said ‘Ah, le Papillion!’ I tried to tell him where I had been and how good it was but they didn’t speak any English and I only know very little French. So they probably thought I was barking.

At the other end of the meadow opposite the alpine plateau was a small area of woodland. I had a look at where this bordered the meadow and the cliffs above and saw: 1 Dark Green Fritillary, 2 Spotted Fritillary, 4 Heath Fritillary, 2 Marbled Fritillary, 1 Large Wall, 4 Ringlet, 3 Meadow Brown, 6 Marbled White, 4 Pearly Heath, 1 male Clouded Yellow, 1 male Berger’s Clouded Yellow, 3 Black Veined White, 1 Chapman’s Blue, 5 male Common Blue, 2 Large Skipper and another 2 new species; 1 Wood White / Real’s Wood White and 1 Tufted Marbled Skipper.
Species added today:
Brimstone
Berger’s Clouded Yellow
Orange Tip
Mazarine Blue
Amanda’s Blue
Apollo
Large Blue
Silver Washed Fritillary
Knapweed Fritillary
Meadow Fritillary
Spotted Fritillary
Wood White / Real’s Wood White
Tufted Marbled Skipper

Birds seen today, Mallard, Robin.

I think the caterpillar is spotted fritillary, Lee.

Guy

Thanks Guy

Lee

Tuesday 14th June

We started today with a round of mini crazy golf (I was trounced; 16 holes – 55 to my 69). We then walked up to the lay-by where a moody French chap had parked an articulated lorry and was selling fruit. As we were there I had a quick look: 2 male Scarce Copper arguing with each other, 1 Black Veined White, 2 Large White, 10+ Ringlet, 5 Meadow Brown, 4 Speckled Wood and 2 Marbled Fritillary.

Later I drove along the road toward Allemont and stopped by a woodland ride that ran parallel to La Romanche. Along this ride were: 1 Dark Green Fritillary, 1 Comma, 4 Marbled Fritillary, 1 Speckled Wood (more intermediate), 25+ Ringlet, 10+ Meadow Brown, 2 Marbled White, 1 female Common Blue, 3 Large White, 4 Green Veined White, 3 Large Skipper and 1 Small Skipper.
The track eventually led to the river bank where a Small Tortoiseshell was nectaring and there right in the mud of the river was this Carline Skipper talking minerals!
Next stop was further along into Allemont and a left turn that led through the hamlet of La Perniere. I found a track that led up to Baton Mogen and stopped here. A White Admiral was flying on a bank as I got out of the car. This little 100m stretch of track held more butterflies in one place that I think I’ve ever seen. It was phenomenal, they were everywhere. After 100m or so the track turned sharp left and in the far corner was a big bank of bramble where another White Admiral was holding court – only it wasn’t, it was a Southern White Admiral!
I walked much further up the mountain track, which led into dense woodland, but the first 200m was by far the richest.

Sightings here; 1 White Admiral, 1 Southern White Admiral, 1 Comma, 1 Silver Washed Fritillary, 1 High Brown Fritillary, 1 Dark Green Fritillary, 1 Spotted Fritillary, 50+ Heath Fritillary – very variable in size in colour; enough to make me think of other species, 25+ Weaver’s Fritillary, 30+ Marbled Fritillary, 1 Pearl Bordered Fritillary, 1 Large Wall, 50+ Marbled White, 10+ Meadow Brown, 15+ Ringlet, 15+ Pearly Heath, 50+ Black Veined White, 6 Wood White or Real’s Wood White, 1 male Berger’s Clouded Yellow, 1 male Brimstone, 4 male Orange Tip, 1 female Mazarine Blue, 1 male Silver Studded Blue, 10+ Chapman’s Blue, 10+ Common Blue, 4 Small Blue, 10+ Large Skipper, 10+ Small Skipper, 5+ Essex Skipper, 2 Grizzled Skipper, 1 very faded (actually bald) Dingy Skipper, 5 Marbled Skipper, 1 Tufted Marbled Skipper.

At one point I was watching a pair of Common Blues with the male attempting to mate with the female, without success, when I was being swarmed by Marbled Whites. I think they could smell my sweat or even the sun cream (it was around 30 degrees). I held out my arm and they kept landing on me to drink! Seeing as this photo is taken one handed with no support, I don’t think it came out too bad!
This is the full frame – the coloured lines are my field note book. I had to have it open pretty much all the time in an attempt to record all I saw.
The Marbled Skippers looked very pale in flight, almost ghostly compared to other skippers.
A Tufted Marbled Skipper:
Grizzled Skipper:
Weaver's Fritillary:
Heath Fritillaries were everywhere and extremely variable; I had originally wondered if these may be different species as they appeared quite different. Thanks to Guy for the ID's.
Finally, a mating pair:
Roger Gibbons has reported seeing some as small as Blues too.

All of the above action was in this 200m of track.
He was still there on the way back and I couldn't resist....
I will certainly be coming back here. Just walking back to the car I added Silver Studded Blue and Pearl Bordered Fritillary to the sightings.
On the way here at 15.00 the chemist sign in Allemont said 27 degrees. On the way back at 17.30, it said 33!

Species added today:
Carline Skipper
Southern White Admiral
Marbled Skipper
Grizzled Skipper
Dingy Skipper
Silver Studded Blue
Pearl Bordered Fritillary

Wednesday 15th June

Everything I had seen up to now had been within 1 or 2 miles of the campsite. It was time for a little further afield. Roger Gibbons had kindly suggested a few places to visit and after a morning swim I set off for a site on the D526. This is the view looking back to Rochetaillee after Allemont. That's Allemont on the right, behind me is a huge lake.
I drove through the hamlet of le Rivier d’Allemont (different place to Allemont). The road climbed up and up to get to the village and then down the other side of the mountain until on a bend, the river Eau-d’Olle passed through. As I got out of the car an Arran Brown was on a thistle right in front of me and a Titania’s Fritillary was nearby.
I set off on the track alongside the river and kept climbing up for a good couple of miles. The slope was covered in some huge rocks and boulders which had clearly taken out trees in previous avalanches and you could see where rocks had been cleared away from the path in places.
Already cautious not to make too much noise, at one point I heard an almighty crashing sound and watched a rock-fall from the other side of the valley. There were houses above this and a bell started ringing so I hope no-one was hurt.
Le Rivier d’Allemont is at 1286m and I’m sure I reached higher than this on my ascent as I was higher than the houses on the opposite side of the valley.

On the track I saw several different Erebia Ringlets that will have to remain unidentified but I did manage to photograph this Piedmont Ringlet.
I also saw the unmistakable wing shape of my first ever Queen of Spain Fritillary. Other new species for the trip included the very local Asian Fritillary, Wall and Northern Wall.
Black Veined moths were common here with 10 seen along with an Argent & Sable, which looked very much like a dwarf Marbled White in flight – which is pretty much what it did as I couldn’t get near it!

Sightings for this site: 1 Arran Brown, 1 Piedmont Ringlet, several unidentified other Erebia Ringlets, 8 Large Wall, 1 Northern Wall, 1 Wall, 1 Queen of Spain Fritillary, 1 Titania’s Fritillary, 2 Heath Fritillary, 1 False Heath Fritillary, 1 Asian Fritillary, 1 Small Tortoiseshell, 1 male Brimstone, 25+ Black Veined White, 10+ Large White, 3 Wood or Real’s Wood White, 1 Small Blue, 1 female and 1 male Mazarine Blue, 3 Dingy Skipper, 2 Large Skipper and 1 Grizzled Skipper.
Species added today:
Arran Brown
Titania’s Fritillary
Piedmont Ringlet
Queen of Spain Fritillary
Wall
Northern Wall
Asian Fritillary

Great diary Lee with some stunning photos. It reminds me of when my wife and I visited Perpignan at the end of June a couple of years ago and ventured up in to the Cévennes and Tarn et Garonne. So many butterflies compared with the UK. Very enjoyable read- many thanks.
Ian

Thanks Ian, nice of you to say There's still a fair bit to go too!

It was so different to the UK, butterflies everywhere. I can't wait until next year

Cheers

Lee

Lee Hurrell wrote: It was so different to the UK, butterflies everywhere. I can't wait until next year

Absolutely. The sheer number of butterflies is staggering in the south of France. Like you, Lee, I can't wait to return in 2012.