www.ukbutterflies.co.uk

Well, my intent had been to post updates in this diary within a few days of them having actually happened, giving a close to real time set of updates. Sadly, that has proved impossible. The demands of guiding the tours leaves no real time in the evenings. Then the need to catch up with my main Civil Service day job, all my voluntary work locally in Sheffield, and everything else in life since my return to the UK, has meant that only now do I have time to write everything down!

Anyhow, I hope to now start posting near daily for the next few weeks on my trips abroad in June/July just gone, including finishing off the report from the Italian/French Alps which I had only just started. Enjoy!

After the long drive the day before, everyone in the group was raring to go the next morning. The weather forecast was mixed, but we set off for the short thirty minute drive to the hillsides to the north of Demonte, where Scarce Fritillary (Euphodryas maturna) has its only colonies in Italy. There were decent sunny spells at our first site, but it became clear straight away just how late the 2024 season was for butterflies. Large White (Pieris brassicae) was by far the commonest butterfly, and there were good numbers of fresh-looking Orange Tip (Anthocharis cardimines). Also common were Adonis Blue (Polyommatus bellargus) and Heath Fritillary (Melitaea athalia), individuals of both species looking mint fresh. One of the guests also spotted a Sooty Copper (Lycaena tityrus), which turned out to be one of only three sightings all week of this normally common species.

A number of us also spent some time studying some distant photos of either a Large Wall Brown (Lasiommata maera) or Northern Wall Brown (Lasiommata petropolitana). Thankfully my co-guide Emmanuelle got a good photo that enabled us to discuss the specific identification criteria with the guests, with us all settling on the latter species.

After 90 minutes, we moved onto the second site, nearby. By this time, it was cloudier, and sunny spells were very brief. The meadow was gorgeous, full of wonderful wildflowers, at or close to their peak. But butterfly numbers were low. Small Pearl Bordered Fritillary (Boloria selene) and Silver Studded Blue (Plebejus argus) did show themselves well, and a good number of the group saw both Weaver’s Fritillary (Boloria dia) and Almond Eyed Ringlet (Erebia alberganus). Roger and I also spotted our first Turquoise Blue (Polyommatus dorylus) of the week, always a lovely species to see. We had lunch at the precise spot a Scarce Fritillary had been seen the previous year, but despite a few spells of sunshine, we had no luck, and we left the site strongly suspecting that this species hadn’t yet emerged this year.

Our last stop for the day was down the valley from our hotel. The meadows here, by the river, are stunning, especially with the mountains in the background. The weather forecast for the afternoon was poor, but actually it turned out to be sunny when we arrived. This was fortuitous, and we were able to get some excellent photos of Duke of Burgundy (Hamearis lucina) and Geranium Argus (Aricia eumedon). Again, both were mint fresh. The latter species was seen almost exclusively on Geranium, of course! Also putting on a good display were Clouded Apollo (Parnassius mnemosyne). Such was the behaviour of all the individuals we saw, it felt like they had only emerged that afternoon. This gave us all a great opportunity for close range photos.

Despite the mixed weather, and the disappointment about missing out on Scarce Fritillary, we all agreed it had been a good first proper day. Four of us had a celebratory swim in the geothermally heated hotel swimming pool, before sitting down for the daily checklist, and then dinner.

The hotel owner, Franco, told us that evening that he’d never known a worse Spring for weather in his life. No wonder butterfly numbers were low, and we were seeing such late emergences!

Again, the weather forecast for day three of the trip was uncertain. But we set off with a positive attitude, for the drive to sites nearby Entracque and Valdieri.

Our first stop was at Ponte di Porcera. In three previous mid-June visits to this site, Poplar Admiral (Limenitis populi) had been seen on the bridge, so anticipation was particularly high for this spectacular and sought after species.

The wildflowers and scenery here were superb, and in the sunshine, a really good number of butterfly species were flying. Green Hairstreak (Callophrys rubi) were in good numbers, as were Mazarine Blue (Cyaniris semiargus) and Small Heath (Coenonympha pamphilus). But it was the Fritillary’s that many of us were mainly focused on, as we racked up Glanville (Melitaea cinxia), Pearl Bordered (Boloria euphrosyne), Knapweed (Melitaea phoebe), Lesser Spotted (Melitaea trivia), Spotted (Melitaea didyma) and Provencal (Melitaea deione) Fritillary’s. We spent ninety minutes here, but we all could easily have stayed longer. Despite missing out on Poplar Admiral, all guests loved this location.

It was a short twenty minute drive to our lunch spot, a hairpin bend meadow known for its colony of Reverdin’s Blue (Plebejus argyrognomon). True to form for the location, after a bit of searching, a lone and tatty female was found. We could not explain why this species was so tatty when so many other species were so fresh. The 2024 season was proving hard to predict! The track nearby proved to be a great location for a range of other species too. Marbled Skipper (Carcharodus lavatherae), Large Skipper (Ochlodes sylvanus), Brimstone (Gonepteryx rhamni), Cleopatra (Gonepteryx cleopatra), Holly Blue (Celastrina argiolus), Green Underside Blue (Glaucopsyce alexis), and Pearly Heath (Coenonympha arcania) all put in their first appearances of the trip. Our final site for the day was a quarry near Valdieri, known for its colony of Southern Swallowtail (Papilio alexanor), an extremely scarce species in Italy, and indeed in much of Europe too. The habitat here was much drier and hotter, and always produces species not seen elsewhere on the trip. True to form, we saw Safflower Skipper (Pyrgus carthami) and Purple Shot Copper (Lycaena alciphron), which we didn’t see anywhere else in Italy during the week. The habitat is also good for Chequered Blue (Scolitantides orion), a target species for one of the guests. All of us were delighted when he found one! Shortly afterwards, the cry of “Swallowtail” went out, as one chased a Brimstone. But which Swallowtail species was it? We found out soon enough as it showed very territorial behaviour, flying non-stop for over sixty minutes over the rocks higher up. A few of us, carefully climbed the steep slopes for closer views. After we realised it wasn’t going to land, a number of us took “sports mode” photos, or took stills from videos. It was clear it was a male Southern Swallowtail. Indeed, we saw two in the end. We were all delighted with the day, a total of 54 species seen, and the week list now up to 66. This was Roger and his wife Ann’s last evening with us, so it was a delight for many of us to spend time listening to their stories of butterfly summers past in France.

Day 4 of the trip turned out to be the worst day of weather all week, with cloud cover nearly all day. That said, it didn’t rain until 4pm, but when it did, it was heavy!

Our morning was spent in the Val d’Arma. Firstly, we visited a location where Camberwell Beauty (Nymphalis antiopa) had been seen before – surprisingly we hadn’t seen one yet on the trip. No luck at this site, sadly, but we did get our best photos of Chapman’s Blue (Polyommatus thersites) of the week. Secondly, we visited a large roadside meadow, higher up the valley. A good number of Orchids were seen. There were also large numbers of flowering Sainfoin, which made some of us speculate if we might see Osiris Blue (Cupido osiris). We did! At our third spot, where we ate lunch, and the cloud was getting thicker. We did get some good views of Berger’s Clouded Yellow (Colias alfacariensis) though, which was unusually torpid. This was the crossover point for our guides. Roger (and Ann) left, so we all thanked them for their time, and wished them safe travels. We then stopped briefly back at the hotel, where we met David Moore, who had flown into Nice airport that morning, having spent the previous 8 days guiding a different North Greece holiday. He’d then driven across the Col de la Lombarde, which had opened to traffic just that day – a relief for everyone, not least David!

After introductions and reacquaintances, we decided to gamble with the weather and try the meadows down our hotel valley. This time, it wasn’t so good, with it being cool, windy, and threatening rain. The only advantage of this poor weather was that the few butterflies that were seen, were very well behaved, including this Clouded Apollo (Parnassius mnemosyne). After an hour, with very little seen, half of the group returned in the minibuses, early to the hotel. The others walked back more slowly, stopping at a campsite bar along the way.

selbypaul wrote: ↑Sun Aug 18, 2024 12:25 pm...The hotel owner, Franco, told us that evening that he’d never known a worse Spring for weather in his life. No wonder butterfly numbers were low, and we were seeing such late emergences!

Given Franco looks to be in his mid-sixties, that tells you all you need to know.

I'm sorry it was such a tough baptism for you, Paul, but by contrast you can be assured you have seen the worst possible so in future years it will all become much easier in comparison!

David M wrote: ↑Thu Aug 22, 2024 9:43 am
Given Franco looks to be in his mid-sixties, that tells you all you need to know.

I'm sorry it was such a tough baptism for you, Paul, but by contrast you can be assured you have seen the worst possible so in future years it will all become much easier in comparison!

You say I've seen the worst possible. But are you sure? Climate change is only accelerating. I fear that the extremes are only going to get extremer!

There was another mixed weather forecast for Day 5 of the trip, but broadly, it turned out better than forecast.

Our first stop was a new site for the week, a set of meadows to the west of Entracque. Despite being a relatively small site, each part of the meadow has slightly different conditions, leading to a huge range of species to be seen.

Lang’s Short Tailed Blue (Leptotes pirithous) and Provencal Short Tailed Blue (Cupido alcetas) were both new species for the week. There were also good sightings of both Amanda’s Blue (Polymmatus amandus), Turquoise Blue (Polyommatus dorylas), Green Hairstreak (Callophrys rubi), Queen of Spain (Issoria lathonia) and Pearly Heath (Coenonympha arcania). One of the guests also found a very torpid Provencal Fritillary (Melitaea deione), which was so settled she was able to draw it. We then made the short but slightly tortuous drive up the Termi di Valdieri. Here we had good views of both Chamois and Marmot. One of the target butterfly species in this valley was Mountain Green Veined White (Pieris byroniae). The females are easy to tell apart from normal Green Veined White (Pieris napae), but the males can be more difficult. So, we all took lots of photos of likely looking individual butterflies. I managed to take a good photo of what I believe is a male bryoniae, but I'm not 100%. Very happy for others to correct me here! But my co-guide Emmanuelle did take the only photo of a female bryoniae, which proves that species was here!

While chasing Whites, I also found and photographed a Mountain Dappled White (Euchloe simplonia), a species which I'd only "probably" seen before. This was therefore my first new species of the week - result! With the weather looking like it was closing in, we headed back down the valley looking for a good lunch stop. The location for lunch chose itself, as I spotted a Camberwell Beauty (Nymphalis antiopa) fly in front of the van as I was driving. Luckily there was a parking spot literally 10 metres after. And amazingly, all the group managed to see this species over the course of the 45 minute stop.

We decided to return to Ponti di Porcera, in the hope of Poplar Admiral (Limenitis populi). No luck again sadly, and given the extensive searching, we again had to conclude this species hadn’t emerged yet this year. We did see Western Dappled White (Euchloe crameri) here though, amongst the various Fritillary species. Another indication of just how late the season was.

David persuaded us it was worth stopping again, on the way back at the quarry near Valdieri. He thought that the warm but overcast conditions may allow better pictures of Southern Swallowtail (Papilio alexanor). As ever, he was correct, with half the group managing good photos when an individual male settled twice. My own photo was less good, taken from a distance. In total we saw 65 species of butterfly today, an excellent total, bringing us to 79 for the trip as a whole.

Day 6 of the holiday was transit day, leaving Italy for our 2nd base in France. The morning dawned with crystal clear blue skies, by far the best weather of the trip so far. This made leaving our fantastic first hotel even harder! After saying our goodbyes to Franco and his team, we headed off for a return visit to meadows north of Demonte. Our hope was that the four intervening days might have been sufficient enough for the first Scarce Fritillary’s (Euphodryas maturna) to have emerged.

We arrived quite early, and many of the butterflies were extremely torpid. However it was already clear that the four days had made some difference, with there being a good number more Meadow Brown (Maniola jurtina) and Almond Eyed Ringlet (Erebia alberganus) on the wing than our previous visit. Thankfully, avoiding disappointment, David found a Scarce Fritillary, which was very settled and allowed good photos to be taken. As we were leaving, I spotted a large bright orange Fritillary, which one of the guests managed to photograph and identify as Dark Green Fritillary (Argynnis aglaja). This turned out to be our only siting of this species all week.

We then travelled onwards in convoy up the Col de la Lombarde. The weather remained perfect, and the scenery was stunning in the sunshine. As we reached the top, it was clear why the pass had been closed up until the previous two days, as there were still very high snowdrifts to the side of the road, and the repairs to the road itself were fresh. We stopped for lunch just 5 minutes beyond the Col on the French side. There was a steady stream of White butterflies migrating north, hilltopping. Also around was Peak White (Pontia callidice), flying fast, but at least two individuals were seen. This was my second new species of the week.

After lunch, we moved on and stopped at two more sites along the main road, beyond the Isola 2000 ski resort. At the first stop were a number of de Prunner’s Ringlet (Erebia triaria) and Pearl Bordered Fritillary (Boloria euphrosyne). Most importantly, we spotted the first and only Apollo (Parnassius apollo) of the trip. At the second stop we found Escher’s Blue (Polyommatus escheri). A further 45 minute drive and we arrived at our second hotel in Rimplas. Eager to see what the different location and habitat might bring, around half the group walked partway down the “famous” track to the side of our hotel. It did bring more species, including Marsh Fritillary (Euphodryas aurinia). But even here it was clear it was a late season, and there were less individual butterflies than in a normal year.

This was the final full day, and the weather dawned warm and sunny again. Our first stop was literally a five minute drive up the hill to the fort above Rimplas. Despite being quite early, the hot direct sunshine meant that many of the butterflies were highly active already. Scarce Swallowtail (Iphiclides podalirius) and Swallowtail (Papilio machaon) were both seen, as was Sloe Hairstreak (Satyrium acacia), Southern White Admiral (Limenitis reducta) and Marbled White (Melanargia galathea). There were also some very attractive highly colour variant female Spotted Fritillary (Melitaea didyma). Just as we were setting off, we stopped the vans again, as a large orange butterfly revealed itself to be a Large Tortoiseshell (Nymphalis polychloros). After this distraction, we drove for around an hour north to the village of Saint Dalmas Le Selvage and its surrounding meadows. Those meadows were floriferous and in near perfect condition. Our main target here was (Mountain) Alcon Blue (Phengaris alcon, form rebeli), and while we found it’s larval host plant, there was no sign of the butterfly sadly. Wood White (Leptidea sinapis) were extremely common here, and I took a number of photographs, one of them turning out to be Eastern Wood White (Leptidea duponcheli). Large Grizzled Skipper (Pyrgus alveus) was also seen. After lunch, we returned back to Rimplas, for a longer time at the famous track to the side of the hotel. Most of us spent at least two hours walking the full length and back again. Many species were seen, including Purple Shot Copper (Lycaena alciphron), Ilex Hairstreak (Satyrium ilicis) and Chequered Blue (Scolitantides orion). But the highlight for one of the guests was Baton Blue (Pseudophilotes baton), which was a new species for him, and which was quite confiding. In total, today had brought the most amount of individual butterfly species, with 68 seen. This took the total trip list to a very good 94 species. Over dinner, we reflected on and celebrated a really good trip, with fantastic company in the most wonderful scenery.

Day 8 of the trip was Departures day. One of the guests had a very early flight this morning, so David drove him back to Nice airport. (We’d said our goodbyes to them both the night before).

The rest of the flights were in the afternoon, so there was just enough time for some of the guests to do an hour or two of butterflying in the morning, in and around Rimplas. No new species were seen, but some good photos were taken of torpid individual butterflies warming themselves in the early morning sun. I sadly missed out on all of this, as I was dealing with issues relating to van hire for one of my July trips! Hey ho.

It was then time to drive the roughly 60 minutes back to Nice airport with both minibuses. The trip went smoothly, apart from some fun and games with re-fuelling one of the minibuses!

We all said our final goodbyes to each other, the eight days having flown by so quickly. Despite the stresses of the first day, with the mountain passes being closed, and despite the very late season (by around 3 weeks), the trip had been a good one. I'd enjoyed guiding my first trip, the guests had been brilliant, and I'd seen two new butterfly species: Mountain Dappled White and Peak White.

After dropping off the guests at Nice airport, I handed back the hired minibus and picked up my own car. Ahead of me I had three full days of driving back to the UK, via three other parts of France, with the aim of seeing four new butterfly species.

First stop was just north west of Nice, in the hills above Vence. Here there is an isolated colony of Yellow Banded Skipper (Pyrgus sidae), a species that has evaded me on at least two other trips. I was worried that, given the late season, I would be too early.

Perhaps I was. During 90 minutes at the specific locations this species has previously been seen, I saw just one Pyrgus. It was large, looked fresh, and disappeared after just 0.5 seconds of a view of its upperside. Not enough for a firm diagnosis, but I'd be pretty sure it was my target species. Despite extensive searching and waiting, in very good weather conditions, the individual never reappeared! Sometimes butterflies can be so frustrating!

It was good habitat though, with many Fritillaries flying. The highlight was this Twin Spot Fritillary (Brenthis hecate). This is a species I've seen only twice previously, both being pretty tatty individuals. This one was fresh, if very active! Also seen was a good number of Ilex Hairstreak (Satyrium ilicis), most of which were very fresh. Some were pretty torpid, allowing me to get close and to take videos that allowed me to get an upperside still. I then had a long five and a half hour drive to the Perpignan area. On the way back down through Vence itself, I saw a Two Tailed Pascha (Charaxes jasius) fly past the car near a bar, as I was driving!

Thankfully, in contrast to 9 days earlier, the roads were pretty quiet, and I made good progress. I slept like a log that night.

Hi Paul. I'm thoroughly enjoying your reports. They reflect the same year I've been living here in the Alps!

Your final hairstreak is ilex, not sloe. The extent of orange on the upperside is surprising, though - I'm sure they don't look like that in Switzerland!

Guy

Padfield wrote: ↑Sun Aug 25, 2024 9:43 am Hi Paul. I'm thoroughly enjoying your reports. They reflect the same year I've been living here in the Alps!

Your final hairstreak is ilex, not sloe. The extent of orange on the upperside is surprising, though - I'm sure they don't look like that in Switzerland!

Guy

Thanks guy. And you are correct, my mistake, doing things at speed! I'll correct the original post.

An early alarm call on 19th June, and I set off for the Spanish border, not too far from Andorra, in the Pyrenees. The target was Bog Fritillary (Boloria eunomia) at a site I'd visited before in early June 2022. In that very early year, I'd missed out on that species by just two days! In a normal year, the 19th June would be perfect timing for Bog Fritillary at this site. But I was nervous about this being a late season.

I arrived at 9.30am, and the butterflies were just starting to emerge in the sunshine. I spent 90 minutes at the site and saw Black Veined White (Aporia crataegi), Sooty Copper (Lycaena tityrus), Green Hairstreak (Callophrys rubi), Meadow Fritillary (Melitaea pathenoides) and Bright Eyed Ringlet (Erebia oeme). I had a number of false starts, with Small Pearl Bordered Fritillary (Boloria selene), but sadly I didn't see the target species. I'd later find out that this part of the Pyrenees was also around a fortnight later than a normal year, which explains why I didn't see it. Another few days later, and maybe!

Back when I was planning my road trip in the Spring, I'd intended on driving next to a False Dewy Ringlet (Erebia sthennyo) location 2 hours further east. But the weather forecast from 11am onwards in the Pyrenees was grim. And indeed, right on cue, as I started off driving, the rain began. So, I decided to drive straight onwards to the Bordeaux area, for my next and final target species of the trip, False Ringlet (Coenonnympha oedippus). A big thanks to fellow UKB'er Pete Smith for the site locations.

The roads were very good and very quiet, and I made good time, arriving at the location at 3.30pm. It had been cloudy all the time I was driving, but as I arrived, not too far from the coast, the clouds were much lighter. It was only a short ten minute walk from where I parked, and right on cue a couple of brown looking butterflies fluttered in the distance. I chased after one, and yes, my target species, False Ringlet. It is amazing the difference between what they look like flying in the distance (dusky brown), to what they look like close up - an absolutely beautiful species. I spent a good hour chasing individuals, photographing them, before driving the final 10 minutes back to my hotel for the night. Interestingly, in the whole hour I spent at this site, I only saw False Ringlet, not a single other species of any sort. That evening, I had the most amazing dinner, as I reflected on the day. Yes I'd missed out on both Bog Fritillary and False Dewy Ringlet (both of which are turning into bogey species). But the False Ringlet more than made up for that, so beautiful is this species.

The following day was the longest day of driving yet. From just south west of Bordeaux to an overnight hotel near the Le Shuttle station at Calais, a full 9 hours of driving, pretty constantly, other than two toilet stops and the brief motorway toll stations.

I spent that evening writing the tour report for the Italian/French Alps trip. Then up very early the following morning to catch the 7am Le Shuttle back to the UK. Then a final five hour drive back to Sheffield, arriving at lunchtime!

And so, my 13 day trip came to an end. The Italian Alps were as amazing as ever, despite the late season, and already I can't wait to get back in June 2025, where I'm guiding that trip again. The driving through France, pretty much a circle of the whole of France, less so! But, ultimately, as a one off road trip to see Scarce Heath and False Ringlet, worth it.

Just 11 days later I'd be off to Europe again....

Hi Paul,

The False Ringlet (C. oedippus) really is a special species (if you'll forgive the tautology).

Your Eastern Wood White (L. duponcheli) looks like sinapis to me. Some sinapis are heavily shaded, especially the first brood, in very much the same way as duponcheli (after all, they are closely related), but the degree of scaling is very heavy in duponcheli and the contrast is quite stark. On the few occasions I have seen duponcheli, it was quite apparent.

I would not go as far as to say it isn't duponcheli, but I suspect it is unknown from that location, and it would be at the very upper limit of its altitude range.

The definitive clue, on the assumption that it is a male, is that in sinapis the inside of the antennal club has a clear white patch, whereas duponcheli does not. This is not (so) true of female sinapis, though. From what I can see of your photo, there is no white patch but it may be the outside of the club. If you have a shot that shows inside of the antennal club, that would be very useful.

Roger

Interesting, thanks Roger. Sadly I don't have an alternative photo which shows the antenna. I did wonder if the grey was dark enough. But it was much darker than the other individuals flying around. Ah well! Thanks as ever for your advice.

My next butterfly trip for 2024 was to the Spanish Pyrenees. I'd done this exact same trip in the same week, as a guest in July 2017, and it rates highly as one of my favourite ever trips. But now I was doing it as a guide, 7 years later. I was intrigued about whether things would have significantly changed or not.

So, on 3rd July I flew out from Gatwick to Bilbao. There were a number of different arrival routes for the guests, but we all congregated together at Bilbao airport’s arrivals area just before midday. One of the vans was not easy to pick-up, the hire company having suffered an IT failure two days earlier, and we ended up with a smaller than ideal vehicle for all the suitcases. However, with a bit of a wait, and a bit of suitcase Jenga, we managed to set off at 1pm, stopping briefly for lunch at a good Service Station for a late lunch.

We had one planned stop on the way to our hotel, which was at the Pitillas reservoir. As the only real area of standing water in its surrounding area, it is a magnet for various water bird species throughout the year. While there wasn’t too much around in early July, we did get a fantastic view of a Purple Heron, which flew directly over us, just after we arrived. It was good to stretch our legs, and over the course of an hour, we managed to rack up 10 butterfly species, including Mallow Skipper (Carcharodus alceae), Lang’s Short-tailed Blue (Leptotes pirithous) and Mediterranean Skipper (Gegenes nostrodamus). This latter species was somewhat unexpected for us all, being so far inland. But not to my co-guide Peter, who had seen the species at this site before. We drove on through increasingly gorgeous scenery, as we got closer to the foothills of the Pyrenees, arriving at Casa Sarasa in enough time to freshen up before the first fantastic dinner of the week.

After dinner, we gathered in the lounge area, where we shared our hopes for the week ahead, and discussed the general outline of the sites we would visit.

Dear Paul,

With regard to the missed Yellow-banded skipper, you may also have been too late. During early May 2024 I saw them already flying in fairly good numbers at ~ 500m altitude near Rians, while the also at this location occurring Twin-spotted Fritillaries had not emerged yet.

Kind regards, Bert-Jan

Bert-Jan Luijendijk wrote: ↑Mon Aug 26, 2024 10:21 am Dear Paul,

With regard to the missed Yellow-banded skipper, you may also have been too late. During early May 2024 I saw them already flying in fairly good numbers at ~ 500m altitude near Rians, while the also at this location occurring Twin-spotted Fritillaries had not emerged yet.

Kind regards, Bert-Jan

That's interesting Bert-Jan. I had genuinely thought I'd be visiting the site at the right time this year!