South Africa trip with Naturetrek (10-18 March)

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Michaeljf
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Re: South Africa trip with Naturetrek (10-18 March)

Post by Michaeljf »

David M wrote:You must be finding it hard to readjust to the norms of Europe naturewise having had such a great time in southern Africa, Michael?
Hi David,
a little bit, but it's more the temperature difference that is getting to me - I've realised how much I hate the cold here :shock: :( ! In South Africa I thought the weather was great - even when it's cloudy, it's still a lovely warm temperature, and when it's really hot - at least in the grassland - it doesn't feel as difficult to live or walk in than say, Andalucia or Cyprus. At least out there at the moment (late Summer in SA). I suppose in the height of their Summer it might be tougher!
Michael
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Re: South Africa trip with Naturetrek (10-18 March)

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Eshowe and Mandawe Cross (Friday 16th March) - continued...

When we returned to our Eshowe B&B from our late morning walk in the Dlinza forest, we soon found that Bert’s fruit bait (and hanging net) had caught one of the large species of Charaxinae (South African Emperors). We took several minutes to transfer the large butterfly from the net to a large glass-fronted box so we could all see it properly. This was a Green-Veined Emperor and extremely beautiful and even more impressive when we could see it close-up. After everyone had a few minutes to take photos or just view the butterfly, we decided we would try and let it go on one of the garden bushes just to see if we might get a naturalistic picture before it flew off: this turned out to be unsuccessful as despite putting some fruit bait on the bush the Emperor soon flew straight out and up into the canopy. Nevertheless this would be one of the most memorable ‘close views’ we would have all week of any butterfly.

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The Green-Veined Emperor as viewed in the glass-box.
At this point we'd actually taken the glass away, and the butterfly was still quite comfortable just 'sitting there'.

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A better view of the underside of the Green-Veined Emperor.

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A close-up view of this wonderful butterfly. From here you can see the 'green veins' that it gets it's name from..

We left our Eshowe B&B for an afternoon trip up to the ‘Mandawe Cross’, a local site that Steve Woodhall had suggested to me due to it being a good site for butterflies generally – plus there was a likelihood of seeing a few rarities that would hill-top there. Mandawe was only about half an hours drive and the road to the cross was just one dirt road through some of the local village. In fact we missed the turn-off road to the cross (though you can see the cross from quite a few miles away, being right on top of one of the landscape clefts). Luckily there were some local police who were very helpful and drove us up to the turning. The cross itself is really a small stone church built in 1968 to commemorate the endeavours of early missionaries in Zululand. We took a light lunch (bread and cheese and a cup of tea!) at the Mandawe Cross and although some heat haze cloud had moved in, it was still a great place to stop for an hour or so.

The Cross overlooks the Nkwaleni Valley – the views from the cross would obviously be really stunning on a clear day. There were also a whole host of small scrub-bushes and quite a few wild-flowers around the base of the bushes. There were the ubiquitous Citrus Swallowtails flying across the flat of the hill and also quite a few lovely Hairstreaks / Hairtails, Acraea and Blues sitting or flying around the scrub bushes. The only problem here – apart from the cloud that had come in and a slight breeze blowing across – was the spikes on the low bushes: these were lethal, and a couple of minutes of walking in-between the bushes in the wrong direction could leave you with bleeding legs in seconds!

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A close-up of the actual Church. The light unfortunately had gone a bit dull and cloudy.

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The interior of the Mandawe Church was in a bad state unfortunately, but this mural painting is still on one of the walls.
It seems to be a narrative of the early missionaries teaching.

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A view across the Nkwaleni Valley from the hilltop at the Mandawe Cross.
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Re: South Africa trip with Naturetrek (10-18 March)

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Eshowe and Mandawe Cross (Friday 16th March) - Continued

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This was one of the first butterflies I would photograph at the Mandawe Cross.
I've had some problem identifying this one, but it may be a Window Acraea.

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Another shot of the Window Acraea. There were several amongst the small scrub bushes.
In the light wind photographing them was a bit difficult when they would land on the grass stalks...

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This is a Common Black-Eye, a butterfly I would only see once. Not surprising really, as it is really well camouflaged!

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A Brown Playboy (male) also near the Mandawe Cross. The Playboys are another small family of the Lycaeninae.

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In the light cloudy conditions, at least the Brown Playboy would open it's wings for me.

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Another of the Black-Striped Hairtails - a species I had seen earlier in the week at the Mkuze reserve.
Here you can see one of the small local flowers that were a good nectar source for the Lycaenids atop the hill.

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The inside of the Black-Striped Hairtail - again proving that ID'ing is much easier with both an underside/upperwings shot..

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This is my favourite butterfly seen near the Mandawe Cross - either a Dark-Banded or Common Scarlet (definitely a male though).

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I only briefly saw the upperside of the Dark-Banded Scarlet: but the underside was just as interesting.

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Another view of the underside of the Dark-Banded Scarlet: one of my favourite photos of the trip.

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A final view of a butterfly as we left the Mandawe Cross area; another of the Brown Playboys.

We started our return back to Eshowe just after 4pm, though we took our time driving back as the villages near Mandawe were interesting because it gave some insight into the local life: the houses here were fairly poor but the local kids all seemed happy to see us. Bert, our guide, always made us feel at home wherever we were as he was able to speak any of the local Zulu languages and had a great way with any strangers. He would also give us plenty of history about the people and the country as we were driving through the houses.

We returned to our accommodation in Eshowe and the late afternoon cloud stayed, with a heavy rain storm following quite quickly, which stayed for most of the early night. We ate that night at one of the local Golf Clubs in Eshowe, though the service was very slow and by the time we’d eaten it felt very late and I think we were all quite tired! We decided we would have one more early start the next day (Saturday 17th March), and do the forest aerial boardwalk again (at first light) as it would be our last morning of the holiday before we flew back home.

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A standard shot showing the local houses near the Mandawe Cross area.

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The local kids here may have been poor in comparison to British kids, but they seemed happy nevertheless.

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On return to our Eshowe residence, some Trumpeter Hornbills to greet us just before the storm breaks.
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Re: South Africa trip with Naturetrek (10-18 March)

Post by Wurzel »

I am loving this series of posts - but looking at the dates there can't be many more :( pity. Still I'll always remember the Gaudy Commodore :D

Have a goodun

Wurzel
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Re: South Africa trip with Naturetrek (10-18 March)

Post by David M »

Wurzel wrote:I am loving this series of posts - but looking at the dates there can't be many more :( pity. Still I'll always remember the Gaudy Commodore :D
Yes, there have been some great names for butterflies shared with us by Michael. :D
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Re: South Africa trip with Naturetrek (10-18 March)

Post by Michaeljf »

Wurzel wrote:Still I'll always remember the Gaudy Commodore :D Have a goodun Wurzel
Indeed, that's one of my favourite lines from Casablanca, if memory serves me correct "We'll always have the Gaudy Commodore"' :D

You're right, not many more of the diary to come. But I'm making everyone wait for the last bit, including me!

Then there could still be some videos to put up too, if I can work that bit out :roll: :wink:

Michael
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Re: South Africa trip with Naturetrek (10-18 March)

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Last morning at Eshowe and Dlinza Forest (Saturday 17th March)

Our guide Bert decided that an even earlier start would be better if we were to see some of the birds during the dawn at the Dlinza forest, so we were up at 5:30am and were to the top of the aerial boardwalk by 6am but with a cup of tea (of course). It had rained during the night – but this had stopped before we started out, which was just as well, as I never thought to check outside before getting up at 5am (if it had been raining Bert had said that we would not do the early Dlinza forest walk).

Bert was very excited at seeing some of the Doves first thing (one was a species he had never seen before) but I’m afraid I wasn’t really paying attention to the name (and we wouldn’t have an evening’s chat about what we’d seen as this was our last morning in South Africa). The sky was clearer this morning for the dawn light and in the distance we did however see a lovely adolescent African Crowned Eagle and a couple of beautiful Olive Woodpeckers in some of the bare tree branches. Overhead we would have some nice overhead flying passes from Egyptian Geese, Trumpeter Hornbills and Hadeda Ibis.

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A distant view of he African Crowned Eagle in the early morning light at the Dlinza Forest.

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The African Crowned Eagle taking flight in the Dlinza Forest.

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A fly-past from the Trumpeter Hornbills, I could just about move fast enough to get a photograph...

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Another the birds flying past our arial boardwalk early morning visit - an Egyptian Goose.

After the early morning visit to the aerial boardwalk viewpoint we had a quick walk on the Dlinza forest floor. Here Bert saw again a Spotted Ground Thrush, and we would also see the Hornbills as we looked up into the tree canopy: here were also some of the pretty Tinkerbirds (all unfortunately too quick or shy for photographs) - but the early morning light coming down from the forest ceiling was a lovely sight and left a nice impression for our last day. We returned back to the Eshowe B&B around 8:30 and had another nice breakfast, though I admit I was trying to hide my feeling of ‘champing at the bit’ regarding getting out again to the forest for our second (and last) morning visit.

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The light comes out from the canopy as we walk on the Dlinza forest floor: the time is still only around 7:30am.

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There wasn't much light that could reach the forest floor: occasionally we would get spaces of light with these lovely flowers.

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The view of the Trumpeter Hornbills above us when we looked up from the forest floor.

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Our guide Bert is always listening and watching out for birds in the Dlinza forest canopy.

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Our group on the lookout just before we go back for a quick breakfast.
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Re: South Africa trip with Naturetrek (10-18 March)

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Last morning at Eshowe and Dlinza Forest (Saturday 17th March) - Continued...

I gave my apologies and left breakfast first around just before 9:30am - I headed straight back to the open section at the start of the Dlinza forest walk, seeing some Browns and a healthy caterpillar on the edges of the path to the woodland. There was also another Green-Veined Emperor and one of the orange Leopard butterflies up in the canopy just above our B&B.

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A distant view of another of the Green-Veined Emperor in the tree canopy just above our B&B at Eshowe.

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Even from a distance you can just about make out the 'green veins'...

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Another Common Bush Brown on the walk back to the Dlinza Forest.

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An interesting and quite large caterpillar feeding by the path back to the forest.
It reminds me of some of our Eggar or Fox moth caterpillars.

By the edge of the Dlinza forest information building I went straight to the dirt path which surrounded the edge of the flat field. This morning there was the new sightings of some Grass Jewel Blues and a couple of Skippers sunning themselves (not the exciting Skippers of the previous day but possibly a Common Hottentot Skipper). I did see some of the Striped Policemen again but they were already too flighty and quick to photograph – this last morning was to be a hot day (and we were planning to leave in just over an hour). I noted that there were also the Green-Banded Swallowtails flying around the edges of the field but these weren’t stopping: there were a couple of Lantana bushes there but these weren’t enough to stop them on this hot morning.

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The view of the open field just by the start to the Dlinza Forest information centre.
The dirt path on the right hand side and field of flowers in distance.

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A Grass-Jewel Blue is one of the first butterflies by the open field at the forest edge.

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The Grass-Jewel Blues are quite flighty but still will stop long enough for a photo.

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A closer (underside) view of the Grass-Jewel Blue (female).

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One of the local Skippers sunning themselves in the early-morning sunshine: probably a Common Hottentot Skipper.

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The Common Hottentot Skipper reminds me a bit of our own Chequered Skipper.
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Re: South Africa trip with Naturetrek (10-18 March)

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Last morning at Eshowe and Dlinza Forest (Saturday 17th March) - continued...

We were due to leave for the airport at Durban around 11:30 am, so I probably had just over an hour to try and scramble some ‘last pictures’ before we left Eshowe. I did quickly check out the fruit bait - we’d left on some of the trees edging the aerial boardwalk platform - but there wasn’t anything here flying that was different from the previous day. As today was Saturday there were also other visitors / locals starting to investigate the top platform, and it was a bit crowded, so I quickly returned to the edge of the Dlinza forest.

Once again the tall flowers in the open field next to the forest proved the best place to be (Steve Woodhall has since identified these wildflowers as Vernonia - either colorata or amygdalina): I had a chance to again try and photograph the Natal Bar butterfly, but this time they were joined by a few day-flying moths and some Dusky-Veined Acraea. Both forms of the Gaudy Commodore were still flying around the field and this time a fresh individual of the orange/red form (f.natalensis) stopped long enough on the bracken to get a good photograph. I noticed that the Gaudy Commodores would often stop in the shaded part of the ground rather than sitting directly in the sun. I also crossed the single mown square and investigated the bushes right on the edge of the forest and here I was rewarded by seeing the female of the Blonde Glider – I had seen a couple of these females the day before, but only briefly. The females are a completely different colour to the males (the males are yellow with a black edge, the females are more like a larger version of the White Admiral - and are essentially browny-black with white patterns).

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A long-view of one of the Blotched Leopard butterflies in the Dlinza forest canopy near the lookout.

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The Natal Bar butterflies were still out on the Vernonia flowers in the flat field at the edge of the forest.

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They never did open their wings fully, but you can just about make out the lovely blue that would be on the inside of the wings.

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The Gaudy Commodore (natalensis form) - sheltering in the shade of the Bracken fronds

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The Gaudy Commodore rests briefly on the short-grass of the mown flat next to the Dlinza forest information centre.

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A new species for this morning - the Dusky-veined Acraea.

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Like the other butterflies visiting the Vernonia flowers, this Dusky-veined Acraea is just a bit too high above my head!

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This is the female form of the Blonde Glider, stopping briefly at the very side of the forest.

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A closer view of the female Blonde Glider.
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Re: South Africa trip with Naturetrek (10-18 March)

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Last morning at Eshowe and Dlinza Forest (Saturday 17th March) - continued...

It was almost time to go and there were two more surprises left. A single Emperor butterfly – this time a Blue-Spotted Emperor – had found a piece of animal scat in the grass and was busily feeding on it. It may have been a different country but it was the same story for what attracts an Emperor! The female Emperor didn’t open up her wings, unfortunately, and she had been slightly bird-nipped, but it was still a lovely addition to the trip, albeit brief. Also as I left the forest the largest butterfly of South Africa – an female Emperor Swallowtail – this butterfly briefly flew straight in front of me – it was easily identified as it was noticeably larger than the Citrus Swallowtails that I had seen previously, and although it was a similar colour scheme, she had the classic ‘tails’ on the edges of her hind-wings. It was a final reminder of all the species there were in the country that I had barely touched on.

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The female Blue-Spotted Emperor, feeding on animal scat on the mown grass.

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A closer view of the Blue-Spotted Emperor shows that some of the hindwings have had a bit of bird attack.
Unfortunately the butterfly didn't stay for long and I couldn't move round the other side to get a shot with the sun falling on her.

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There were a flock of these small birds in the Dlinza forest field just before I left. Not sure if these are a type of Cisticola.

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They were scampering about quickly as there was plenty of insect life to feed on (hopefully the crickets rather than butterflies)!

We said our goodbyes to Annette, our host at Eshowe, and then Richard made a short speech on the groups’ behalf to our guide Bert, as thanks for all his hard work for the week. We soon were off and driving past the many sugar-cane fields on our way to Durban airport. The drive was uneventful and we arrived at the airport within the expected two hours: after booking in Bert had one last brief lunch with us and soon was off to his next appointment. Karen and I spent a couple of last minutes outside the front of the airport watching the Starlings and Myna birds on the grass lawn: then it was back into check-in procedures, and after a quick meal we were flying back to Johannesburg (from where we would take the 12-hour flight back to Heathrow).

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Back at Durban Airport - there were several birds 'cleaning up' by the food-stalls (Red-winged Starling).

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Common Mynas were also clearing up the crumbs and leftovers at the Airport.

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Our last view of the trip: one of the Common Mynas on the front lawn at Durban Airport.

We arrived in Heathrow in the early hours of Sunday and we would bump into Linda, John and Richard before we left the airport and said our goodbyes and wished everyone a safe journey to their respective homes. As with the trip to South Africa I hadn’t slept on the plane flight from Johannesburg so by the time we got back to our own home to Wales I was looking forward to the comforts of our house and a good night’s sleep in our own bed!

Michael
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Re: South Africa trip with Naturetrek (10-18 March)

Post by David M »

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Michaeljf wrote:They never did open their wings fully, but you can just about make out the lovely blue that would be on the inside of the wings.
I had no idea they were stunning on the uppersides too! What a dynamite species this is. I'd assumed it'd be like a fancy Hairstreak - all for show underneath and not a lot on the uppersides. How wrong can you be? Even the abdominal segments are two-tone.

This has to be my favourite small butterfly ever.
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Re: South Africa trip with Naturetrek (10-18 March)

Post by Michaeljf »

Hi David,
pretty amazing isn't it? I agree, a lovely (small) butterfly. When I first saw it, I immediately thought of the Levantine Leopard (a butterfly that I could have seen when I visited Cyprus, but never did). According to Steve Woodhall's SA butterflies book (he's working on the second edition at the moment) there are 36 of the 'Genus Cigaritis' (or Bar) butterflies in Africa and just 5 of them in South Africa. I've just looked at Christodoulos Makris book on Cyprus butterflies and seen that the Levantine Leopard is in fact Cigaritis acamas (same family) so no wonder I saw a similarity! :)
Michael

I've uploaded a larger picture below so you can get more of an idea of some of the phenomenal nature of the scales - particularly what looks like 'silver'.

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Re: South Africa trip with Naturetrek (10-18 March)

Post by Lee Hurrell »

What an absolute stunner that butterfly is!

A brilliant report, Michael with stunning photographs. Really good stuff. I'm looking forward to the book now :D

Best wishes,

Lee
To butterfly meadows, chalk downlands and leafy glades; to summers eternal.
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Re: South Africa trip with Naturetrek (10-18 March)

Post by Ian Pratt »

I have just read through the whole diary,Michael, and was amazed by the beautiful photos of butterflies, animals, birds and landscapes. I must go on a Naturetrek trip- my cousin has just returned from a birding trip to Poland with them- well worth it.
Thanks again for an amzing set of photos and diary. :D
Ian
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