Rochetaillee, Val d’Isere, Rhone Alpes, France – June 2011

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Re: Rochetaillee, Val d’Isere, Rhone Alpes, France – June 20

Post by Lee Hurrell »

Thursday 16th June

We went into le Bourg-d Oisans this morning and had a longer mooch about and some lunch.

Later, again following Roger’s advice, I headed south into the Parc National des Ecrins on the D530 through Venosc. Finding a likely spot next to La Veneon, I took the track along the river. Here's the views in both directions:
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A male Brimstone was nectaring and a few Essex Skippers were darting about. The track led to a bridge over the river and continued the other side, where several White Admirals were on the ground. Further along, a meadow was on the left, full of flowers and orchids and in here 3 High Brown Fritillaries were on Knapweeds, nectaring close to each other. One seemed to have had trouble emerging and another had a curious hole in its wing.
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A Chimney Sweeper moth was also here.
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Past the meadow the track seemed to lead to a house and to avoid trespassing I turned back but after a short distance disturbed another first for me and the trip – a Large Tortoiseshell! This was clearly a hibernator on its last legs as it was pretty battered.

Walking back toward the car I was being checked out by another High Brown Fritillary who kept landing a few feet in front of me along with a Knapweed Fritillary and another first - a Provencal Short-Tailed Blue.
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The colours on this male Mazarine Blue were stunning.
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The view from the bridge:
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There was then yet another High Brown opposite the car.
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Sightings for this site: 8 White Admiral, 1 Large Tortoiseshell, 1 Comma, 5 High Brown Fritillary, 1 Knapweed Fritillary, 2 Marbled Fritillary, 3 Heath Fritillary, 1 False Heath Fritillary, 5 Marbled White, 2 Pearly Heath, 5 Ringlet, 1 Large Wall, 1 Provencal Short-Tailed Blue, 1 male Chapman’s Blue, 1 male Common Blue, 7 Small Blue, 1 male Mazarine Blue, 1 male Brimstone, 1 Small White, 40+ Black Veined White, 5 Large Skipper, 10+ Essex Skipper.

I drove further along the D530 and stopped at le Bourg d’Arud. I took a short walk up a track and found another meadow full of flowers. 2 male Scarce Copper, 10+ Black Veined White, 1 female Small White and a Black Veined moth were found in here.

I debated whether to continue further as the sky was turning cloudier. I decided to head back and made a detour to Ornon (another suggestion from Roger) along some very scary mountain roads and made it back just as the heavens opened. It continued to rain heavily on and off all night.

Species added today:
Large Tortoiseshell
Provencal Short-Tailed Blue
Last edited by Lee Hurrell on Sun Feb 23, 2014 10:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Rochetaillee, Val d’Isere, Rhone Alpes, France – June 20

Post by Paul Wetton »

Great stuff Lee. Very enjoyable.

After learning all those I saw in Switzerland its good to recognise plenty in your trip report.

I've just purchased the ID guide by Tristan Lafranchis on European Butterflies. Only £25 from Subbuteo Books. Free postage on orders of £50 or more.

Can't wait to see some more of your pics.
Cheers Paul
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Re: Rochetaillee, Val d’Isere, Rhone Alpes, France – June 20

Post by Lee Hurrell »

Thanks Paul :D

I'd like to get that book too.

Still more to come!

Cheers

Lee
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Re: Rochetaillee, Val d’Isere, Rhone Alpes, France – June 20

Post by Mark Colvin »

Hi Lee,

Great report and pics as ever. I feel a European trip in the making!

Good hunting.

Kind regards. Mark
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Re: Rochetaillee, Val d’Isere, Rhone Alpes, France – June 20

Post by Lee Hurrell »

Thanks Mark :D
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Re: Rochetaillee, Val d’Isere, Rhone Alpes, France – June 20

Post by Lee Hurrell »

Friday 17th June

We drove to the larger town of Vizille this morning for brunch. It has much more charm than le Bourg d-Oisans in my opinion and we sat and ate in the town square. It also has a charming floral snail for some reason!
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Afterwards we went to have a look at the Chateau de Vizille and were delighted to discover a huge park behind it full of ancient trees, flower beds and lakes, on which were swans and ducks. There was also a black swan there. The day had started fairly bright but had greyed over a bit by now and the only butterflies seen in the park were 1 Speckled Wood, 1 Ringlet and 1 Large Skipper.
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The grounds had wonderfully kept gardens with some acutely angled hedges.
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Attached to the Chateau was a museum of the French revolution, although sadly closed for lunch.
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It started to rain on the drive back and continued all afternoon. Still, we can’t complain too much as it has been full sun and around 30 degrees since we've been here!

We called into reception on the way back; here's the campsite dog - Mini Aslan, we called him.
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We'd brought plenty of DVD's in case of inclement weather and got stuck into Damages season 3 (highly recommended).

However, by 18.30 it had stopped raining and brightened up a little so we went for a walk along a track from the campsite that we figured must lead to the river. Sure enough it led to the spot where I had found the Carline Skipper on Tuesday, although I had walked to it from the other end.

What should be roosting nearby but a pristine male Chalkhill Blue! Miraculously the sun then popped out for 5 minutes and he opened his wings for us. A magical moment – and I very nearly didn’t take the camera.
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It was a little odd seeing a Chalkhill Blue not, well, on a chalk hill; I’d certainly never seen one next to a river before. Roosting nearby was a male Green Veined White. What a lovely end to the daytime.

This track also passed the meadow I had been in on Tuesday and in here there were 2 Ringlets, 1 Large Skipper and a female Brimstone.

Species added today:
Chalkhill Blue
Last edited by Lee Hurrell on Mon Feb 24, 2014 11:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Rochetaillee, Val d’Isere, Rhone Alpes, France – June 20

Post by Paul Wetton »

Fantastic Snail. Maybe they modelled it on one of these. Probably more likely eat this one though.
Brian
Brian
Beautiful Chalkhill Blue photo Lee.
Cheers Paul
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Re: Rochetaillee, Val d’Isere, Rhone Alpes, France – June 20

Post by Lee Hurrell »

Thanks Paul :D

Here's another side to the snail.
IMG_1856.jpg
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Re: Rochetaillee, Val d’Isere, Rhone Alpes, France – June 20

Post by Lee Hurrell »

Saturday 18th June

It rained again all night and we woke to grey skies and downpours. Having failed to find the Monday market in Allemont, (we since discovered it is summer only, so maybe it runs from July), we got up early and went to the (all year round) Saturday market in le Bourg d’Oisans. It was lovely to see all the traditional French produce on offer (none of the cheap tat you get in English markets) and had we not eaten our own body weight in cheese and cold meats since we had been here we probably would have bought some of it.

It was still raining by 10.30 when we got back and so it continued all day. The only change in the weather was when it rained more heavily, in a 'comedy rain' fashion, and when a massive thunderstorm erupted early in the afternoon. Occasionally the sky would turn from dark, dull grey to a brighter, dull grey and tease us with the prospect of brightening up only for it to chuck it down once again.

At precisely 15.20 it stopped raining and some blue sky appeared. It was time.

Just in case it did nothing but rain again for the rest of our trip I went back to my two favourite places so far. First up was the alpine meadow.

I drove across the iron bridge and was amazed by the amount the river had risen, although it had rained heavily on and off for 3 days. Compare these views with those taken on Sunday 12th June - Part 3!
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And finally, here’s the iron bridge, with my car in the background.
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I nipped into the quarry site as it was on the way and the butterflies were just waking up and basking in some sun at last. Seen here: 6 Marbled Fritillary, 2 Lesser Marbled Fritillary, 1 Marbled White, 6 Ringlet, 1 Small Skipper and 2 Green Veined White.

I carried on to the alpine meadow. The sun was in and out and there was a stiff breeze but things were coming back to life. I think this Black Veined White had chosen the wrong spot to rest though.
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Thankfully, there were some happier looking individuals.
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There was one Apollo flying and another basking:
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There was also this one which I think must have just emerged. I think she is a she. She didn’t move much and I waited to see if I could watch her take her maiden flight but she hadn’t moved in ages, despite the sun.
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I overlooked this Geranium Argus at the time, thinking it was a Mazarine Blue, (thanks Guy!).
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Heath Fritillaries were once again present.
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Marbled Whites were very common.
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Seen in the alpine meadow: 3 Apollo, 1 White Admiral, 7 Heath Fritillary, 3 Weaver’s Fritillary, 25+ Marbled White, 2 Pearly Heath, 1 Meadow Brown, 20+ Ringlet, 3 Black Veined White, 2 Green Veined White, 1 Geranium Argus, 1 female Common Blue, 1 Large Skipper, 5 Small Skipper, 5 Essex Skipper.

I then moved on to the track that led to Baton Mogen from La Perniere. Again, things were still waking up and there were Fritillaries of at least 6 types everywhere vibrating their wings in the sun.

Different species were sharing basking spots as they warmed up again.
High Brown and Marbled
High Brown and Marbled
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The Silver Washed Fritillaries had come out in good numbers and I even saw a female f. valenzina.
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Heath Fritillaries were in large and small varieties.
Little
Little
Large
Large
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I wondered what nearly 3 days of heavy rain would do to butterfly numbers and while they were down on last time, there were still mostly very fresh individuals about and in very good numbers. I was also later in the day and not out for as long of course.

Once again the corner where the track turned was the hot spot and I caught a glimpse of the Southern White Admiral again. The bramble was covered in Browns, Whites, Skippers, Commas and Fritillaries; Silver Washed, High Brown, Marbled, Heath and Weaver’s. But this pristine fresh Spotted Fritillary really took my breath away.
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Another highlight was this fabulously marked female Adonis Blue; I’d never seen one with so much orange. But on checking Guy’s, Roger’s and Matt’s websites, it seems they can look like this in Europe.
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A little way round the corner there were two oak trees and sure enough, on the bigger tree, I saw at least 3 Purple Hairstreaks enjoying the late afternoon sun along with an unidentified darker Hairstreak.

Finally, there was a little reminder of home.
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Sightings for here: 8 Silver Washed Fritillary, including 1 female valenzina, 6 High Brown Fritillary, 25+ Marbled Fritillary, 25+ Heath Fritillary, 15+ Weaver’s Fritillary, 1 Spotted Fritillary, 1 White Admiral, 1 Southern White Admiral, 6 Comma, 40+ Marbled White, 5 Meadow Brown, 20+ Ringlet, 3 Pearly Heath, 6 Black Veined White, 10+ Green Veined White, 1 Southern Small White, 3 Purple Hairstreak, 1 female Adonis Blue, 3 Small Blue, 2 male Common Blue, 5 Large Skipper, 5 Small Skipper, 3 Essex Skipper.

There was also a Short Toed Eagle flying above the mountains and this beautiful damselfly at my feet at one point.
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There were a family of Coal Tits in the tree outside when I got back.

Species added today:
Geranium Argus
Adonis Blue
Purple Hairstreak
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Re: Rochetaillee, Val d’Isere, Rhone Alpes, France – June 20

Post by Mark Colvin »

Hi Lee,

Lovely report and pictures. I have a feeling I know what I'll be doing when I run out of British species ... though I've a little way to go yet!

Good hunting.

Kind regards. Mark
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Re: Rochetaillee, Val d’Isere, Rhone Alpes, France – June 20

Post by Lee Hurrell »

Thanks Mark, really nice of you to say.

See you in the South of France then :D

Lee
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Re: Rochetaillee, Val d’Isere, Rhone Alpes, France – June 20

Post by Lee Hurrell »

Apologies for the lengthy delay in continuing – moving house and Christmas rather got in the way!

Sunday 19th June - Part 1

The sun had returned today and so we went for picnic lunch at the spot I visited near Venosc alongside La Veneon, where I had noticed some picnic tables on my last visit. Here's the view from where we were sitting.
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Just walking to the picnic table we found this male Meleager’s Blue, with his characteristic scalloped hind wings.
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White Admirals were again common with many on the ground and a Small Skipper even took a fancy to a glass of wine! In subsequent photos his proboscis had split in two so he had probably had too much by then…
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We watched this pair of Black Veined Whites rough and tumble - it was easy to see why they lose their scales, the male was trampling all over the female and there was a lot of wing rubbing.
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Another new species for the trip landed in front of us; a Painted Lady, along with a Small Tortoiseshell.
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A female Purple Shot Copper further brightened up the track:
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We also saw 3 male Southern Small Whites.
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We took the track over the river, which was still raging after all the rain, and along into the meadow where I had seen the orchids. In here was another new species, a lovely fresh female Purple Edged Copper. We also saw another Chimney Sweeper moth.
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Sightings for the picnic: 1 Painted Lady, 1 Small Tortoiseshell, 10 White Admiral, 3 High Brown Fritillary, 3 Marbled Fritillary, 1 Heath Fritillary, 1 female Purple Edged Copper, 1 female Purple Shot Copper, 1 male Meleager’s Blue, 2 male Common Blue, 1 male Holly Blue, 15+ Marbled White, 10 Ringlet, 3 Pearly Heath, 1 Wood White or Real’s Wood White, 15+ Black Veined White, 3 Male Southern Small White and 1 Chimney Sweeper moth.

Species added this morning:
Meleager’s Blue
Painted Lady
Purple Edged Copper
Last edited by Lee Hurrell on Mon Feb 24, 2014 11:13 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Rochetaillee, Val d’Isere, Rhone Alpes, France – June 20

Post by Nick Broomer »

A lovely report, and some wonderful photos Lee.

Nick.
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Re: Rochetaillee, Val d’Isere, Rhone Alpes, France – June 20

Post by Lee Hurrell »

Thanks Nick :D
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Re: Rochetaillee, Val d’Isere, Rhone Alpes, France – June 20

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Sunday 19th June - Part 2

After lunch I wanted to visit somewhere higher up and set off for Villard-Reculas, situated at 1500m up the D44, off the road to Allemont. The road snaked up the mountain with plenty of hairpin bends, or switchbacks as they are called out here. I stopped several times on the way up at increasing altitudes, at good looking places.

The first stop, which was no more than a pull in really, led a short distance through to this view. That’s Allemont you can see on the right.
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Here I found 1 male Silver Washed Fritillary, 4 High Brown Fritillary, 15 Heath Fritillary, 1 Small Tortoiseshell, 2 Ringlet, 2 Large White, 2 Green Veined White, 2 Essex Skipper, 5 Small Skipper and a slightly deformed Northern Brown Argus.
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When I was ready to leave, the High Browns, Heaths and Skippers were all in front of the car – I had to get out and shoo them out of the way!
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Next stop was on a bend with a lay-by. A track led to a charming little mountain stream and then on past a farm and what Roger had described as ‘cow country’.

This is view from the track.
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The mountain stream.
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There were pats everywhere and the constant ringing of cowbells. I only saw one longhorn cow though. But the track itself and just beyond were very rich: 1 Safflower Skipper, 1 Red Underwing Skipper, 1 Large Grizzled Skipper, 2 Large Skipper, 20+ Small Skipper, 15+ Essex Skipper, 3 Large Wall, 3 Marbled White, 20+ Ringlet, 10+ Small Heath, 10+ Black Veined White, 1 male Berger’s Clouded Yellow, 2 male Scarce Copper, 1 male Mazarine Blue, 3 Common Blue, 1 Northern Brown Argus, 4 High Brown Fritillary, 15+ Heath Fritillary, 3 Meadow Fritillary, 1 Spotted Fritillary, 3 Hummingbird Hawk and 3 Broad Bordered Bee Hawk moths.

The male Scarce Copper really is a stunning jewel that just seems to capture sunlight.
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Here’s a male High Brown Fritillary with a furry friend.
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One of the few photos I managed of a Meadow Fritillary.
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3 new Pyrgus species for the trip:
Safflower Skipper
Safflower Skipper
Red Underwing Skipper
Red Underwing Skipper
Large Grizzled Skipper
Large Grizzled Skipper
Large Grizzled Skipper
Large Grizzled Skipper
A male Mazarine Blue.
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A not very good photo of a Broad Bordered Bee Hawk moth. These were the first ones I've ever seen.
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I wanted to visit a higher altitude for a number of reasons. Firstly, to see what other species I might find, secondly, to see the view from the top of a mountain (more of that later) and lastly, I wanted to try a ‘Guy type shot’ and frame a butterfly with the mountains in the background.

I think this is my favourite photo of the entire holiday :D
IMG_2414.jpg
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Re: Rochetaillee, Val d’Isere, Rhone Alpes, France – June 20

Post by Padfield »

I love it, Lee! :D

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Re: Rochetaillee, Val d’Isere, Rhone Alpes, France – June 20

Post by Lee Hurrell »

:D :D :D

Thanks Guy!
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Re: Rochetaillee, Val d’Isere, Rhone Alpes, France – June 20

Post by David M »

That's truly a Padfieldesque image!
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Re: Rochetaillee, Val d’Isere, Rhone Alpes, France – June 20

Post by Lee Hurrell »

Sunday 19th June - Part 3

I stopped at one further bend as I ascended further and followed a track that led into more natural terrain and woodland. Here I saw 4 Mazarine Blue, 1 Common Blue, 1 male Small Blue lacking a few a underside spots, 1 Northern Brown Argus, 1 False Heath Fritillary, 1 Heath Fritillary, 3 Black Veined White.

Here’s the view from where I parked.
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Strangely, I saw one Northern Brown Argus at each place I parked and nowhere else….
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Small Blue
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False Heath Fritillary
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Heath Fritillary
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Finally reaching the village, I found a path that led out to a viewpoint with a bench at the end. And what a view! I just sat there for ages staring.
Rochetaillee is where the peak joins the valley floor on the left
Rochetaillee is where the peak joins the valley floor on the left
IMG_2539.jpg
That's the town of le Bourg-d’Oisans on the right
That's the town of le Bourg-d’Oisans on the right
Sharing the view with me was another new species for the trip, a Swallowtail, which I watched hill-topping for a while.
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Also at 1500m were 4 Painted Lady, 5 Small Tortoiseshell, 1 Marbled White, 1 Meadow Brown, 4 Small Heath, 1 female Mazarine Blue, 1 Black Veined moth and a Black Redstart.

Back at base there were 2 Jays in the campsite.

Species added today:
Meleager’s Blue
Painted Lady
Purple Edged Copper
Northern Brown Argus
Safflower Skipper
Red Underwing Skipper
Large Grizzled Skipper
Swallowtail
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Re: Rochetaillee, Val d’Isere, Rhone Alpes, France – June 20

Post by David M »

I'm loving this, Lee. It's making me yearn for southern France and I've still 5 months to wait. :(
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