I have recently returned from a highly enjoyable six days spent studying butterflies in the Cévennes, which is part of the Massif Central range of mountains in the south of France.
I stayed just outside Florac, a small town about 80 miles northwest of Nimes, and a veritable haven of traditional French life set in spectacular countryside.
Florac is at 550m altitude, and lies at the confluence of the rivers Tarn and Tarnon, sandwiched between the steep limestone Causse Méjean to the west and the sharply rising ridge that leads to the 1699m Mont Lozère to the east and north.
The area is the least inhabited département in France, and you can truly feel close to nature here, as the traffic is sparse and the holidaymakers generally restricted to the campsites near the rivers.
I had originally wanted to spend time exploring both the limestone plateaux and the granite uplands, but the lack of a credit card meant that I had to cancel the hire car I'd reserved. No matter though, this instead gave me the opportunity to do lots of walking (and save £300+ to boot!)
The following is a resumé of what Lepidopteral delights I experienced between 1st and 7th July - and please feel free to pass comment/advise on IDs if you like.
Massif Central - 1st to 7th July 2011
Re: Massif Central - 1st to 7th July 2011
Day 1 - Saturday 2 July
Having had to catch a bus from Alès to Florac (which was, admittedly, one of the more agreeable public transport journeys I've made in my life), I eventually arrived at my hotel just before 1400hrs. The Hotel le Rochefort is situated about 2km north of Florac, but the view alone from across the road looking toward the limestone Causse Méjean was worth the effort expended in getting there.
There was a patchwork of scrubby fields next to the campsite by the river, so at 1530hrs I set out to explore them, following which I walked into Florac itself and spent some time checking out the area down by the river Tarnon.
I started out in the little field adjacent to the hotel, and after having done a 250 mile round trip to Collard Hill in late June, it was highly ironic that the first butterfly I saw was a Large Blue!
In this 3 hour time period I saw the following non-UK butterflies:
1. PEARLY HEATH
These were quite common and were found in smallish numbers practically everywhere (easily outnumbering Small Heaths).
Some had unf apical spots and others didn't.
2. BERGER'S CLOUDED YELLOW
Pale Clouded Yellow isn't recorded in this part of France, which is helpful, since I'd be hard pressed to tell the difference between the two species. Berger's were very common, outnumbering ordinary Clouded Yellows by about 10:1. Here's a male on lavender:
...and a female on thistle.
3. WEAVER'S FRITILLARY
I only saw 3 of these, so I consider myself fortunate to have chanced upon this one immediately opposite my hotel.
The undersides are very distinctive with their angular appearance.
4. SLOE HAIRSTREAK
I generally get excited whenever I see a Hairstreak. I soon learned not to, as this species, in particular, was ubiquitous and could be found practically anywhere (usually nectaring on umbellifers). Here's a male:
..and a female:
5. BLACK-VEINED WHITE
These weren't plentiful (about 40 seen in total) and were generally found near gardens rather than up in the hills.
6. CLEOPATRA
How I wish these butterflies would settle with their wings open. They are truly beautiful and, thankfully, very common - much more so than Brimstones.
7. GREAT BANDED GRAYLING
Once seen, never forgotten! These magnificent beasts are full of character - they playfully circle around you and if you keep still will often land on you. I loved 'em and never got sick of them even though they numbered well into the thousands.
They don't normally open their wings at rest, but I spotted this pair mating and patiently waited for an opportunity (the female is absolutely colossal):
8. SOUTHERN WHITE ADMIRAL
Stunning, almost metallic upperside sheen allied to beautiful, marble-like undersides make this species irresistible. I watched this pair for a good 10 minutes as they courted by the river:
DAILY MISCELLANY
Marbled Whites were absolutely all over the place. Thousands of them. Lulworth Skippers were abundant too with Heath Fritillaries not far behind. Even the roadside butterflies had a touch of class about them. At the first roundabout on the main road into Florac, there's an ornamental lavender bush. Whereas we might get a Meadow Brown and a Small White, they get Swallowtails, Cleopatras, Black-Veined Whites, Berger's Clouded Yellows, Brimstones and dozens of Hawk Moths:
Makes you sick, doesn't it?
Having had to catch a bus from Alès to Florac (which was, admittedly, one of the more agreeable public transport journeys I've made in my life), I eventually arrived at my hotel just before 1400hrs. The Hotel le Rochefort is situated about 2km north of Florac, but the view alone from across the road looking toward the limestone Causse Méjean was worth the effort expended in getting there.
There was a patchwork of scrubby fields next to the campsite by the river, so at 1530hrs I set out to explore them, following which I walked into Florac itself and spent some time checking out the area down by the river Tarnon.
I started out in the little field adjacent to the hotel, and after having done a 250 mile round trip to Collard Hill in late June, it was highly ironic that the first butterfly I saw was a Large Blue!
In this 3 hour time period I saw the following non-UK butterflies:
1. PEARLY HEATH
These were quite common and were found in smallish numbers practically everywhere (easily outnumbering Small Heaths).
Some had unf apical spots and others didn't.
2. BERGER'S CLOUDED YELLOW
Pale Clouded Yellow isn't recorded in this part of France, which is helpful, since I'd be hard pressed to tell the difference between the two species. Berger's were very common, outnumbering ordinary Clouded Yellows by about 10:1. Here's a male on lavender:
...and a female on thistle.
3. WEAVER'S FRITILLARY
I only saw 3 of these, so I consider myself fortunate to have chanced upon this one immediately opposite my hotel.
The undersides are very distinctive with their angular appearance.
4. SLOE HAIRSTREAK
I generally get excited whenever I see a Hairstreak. I soon learned not to, as this species, in particular, was ubiquitous and could be found practically anywhere (usually nectaring on umbellifers). Here's a male:
..and a female:
5. BLACK-VEINED WHITE
These weren't plentiful (about 40 seen in total) and were generally found near gardens rather than up in the hills.
6. CLEOPATRA
How I wish these butterflies would settle with their wings open. They are truly beautiful and, thankfully, very common - much more so than Brimstones.
7. GREAT BANDED GRAYLING
Once seen, never forgotten! These magnificent beasts are full of character - they playfully circle around you and if you keep still will often land on you. I loved 'em and never got sick of them even though they numbered well into the thousands.
They don't normally open their wings at rest, but I spotted this pair mating and patiently waited for an opportunity (the female is absolutely colossal):
8. SOUTHERN WHITE ADMIRAL
Stunning, almost metallic upperside sheen allied to beautiful, marble-like undersides make this species irresistible. I watched this pair for a good 10 minutes as they courted by the river:
DAILY MISCELLANY
Marbled Whites were absolutely all over the place. Thousands of them. Lulworth Skippers were abundant too with Heath Fritillaries not far behind. Even the roadside butterflies had a touch of class about them. At the first roundabout on the main road into Florac, there's an ornamental lavender bush. Whereas we might get a Meadow Brown and a Small White, they get Swallowtails, Cleopatras, Black-Veined Whites, Berger's Clouded Yellows, Brimstones and dozens of Hawk Moths:
Makes you sick, doesn't it?
Re: Massif Central - 1st to 7th July 2011
Hi David,
nice to see you back - glad you had a nice trip - no surprise, as France holds such great landscape. It's great to see that only across the channel there was sun about
Especially nice pictures of the Southern White Admiral (s). 
Michael
nice to see you back - glad you had a nice trip - no surprise, as France holds such great landscape. It's great to see that only across the channel there was sun about
Especially nice pictures of the Southern White Admiral (s). Michael
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Re: Massif Central - 1st to 7th July 2011
Lovely pictures, David. I'm glad you had such a rewarding trip.
Guy
Guy
Guy's Butterflies: https://www.guypadfield.com
The Butterflies of Villars-Gryon : https://www.guypadfield.com/villarsgryonbook.html
The Butterflies of Villars-Gryon : https://www.guypadfield.com/villarsgryonbook.html
Re: Massif Central - 1st to 7th July 2011
Day 2 - Sunday 3 July
I was up and out by 0815hrs and decided to explore the hillside behind my hotel which led up to the 934m Montagne de Lampezon. The view of the Causse Méjean was even more impressive in the early morning light than it was the previous afternoon.
Unlike in the UK, it only gets light at 6am in this part of France, so for the first hour or so I didn't see any butterflies. That wasn't a problem, as it took me this long to emerge above the dense woodland on the lower slopes to the heathland at 700m. Here I spied a promising, craggy area on a south facing slope which ran parallel to a waste disposal unit. By now, there was plenty of butterfly activity, so I dropped my rucksack and decided to spend some time here.
9. SPOTTED FRITILLARY
Saw a few of these over the course of the week, but never more than one or two in any one area:
The undersides are quite Glanville-like
10. SAFFLOWER SKIPPER
Then came a moment I'd been dreading - my first Pyrgus. Guy reckons this one is Safflower Skipper and after lengthy scrutiny of my field guides I can't see anything to make me disagree with him.
Thankfully, the next species was rather easier to identify:
11. GREAT SOOTY SATYR
This one's a female:
The same individual's underside:
The males are rather darker:
I saw about ten of the next species, but just like their cousins, Wall Browns, they were a bugger to photograph.
12. LARGE WALL BROWN
13. SCARCE SWALLOWTAIL
Didn't see too many of these, which is sad because they are truly spectacular:
I noticed a fox wandering through the scrub after about an hour so I thought I'd better get back to my rucksack which contained my sandwiches. After eating them and necking about a litre of water, I moved on into a combe replete with low growing herbs and scrubby bushes. Here, the butterflies were like confetti - they were everywhere and it was hard to concentrate on individual specimens. I was drawn towards an area near light woodland which seemed to be a favoured spot, and was rewarded with several species I'd hitherto not seen:
14. MARBLED FRITILLARY
Probably the commonest of the larger Fritillaries seen during the week:
There were Blues all over the place (predominantly Adonis), but one seemed noticeably different:
15. MELEAGER'S BLUE
This is the male:
Notice the scalloped hindwings:
Mating pair:
The female is particularly stunning, like an aberrant Chalkhill Blue:
I don't know why the female's hindwings are so much more scalloped than the male's:
16. SOOTY COPPER
I then bumped into this little fellow:
and the female of the species too:
17. BLUE-SPOT HAIRSTREAK
Though not as abundant as Sloe Hairstreaks, this species was nevertheless not hard to find:
Then came a most exciting moment - a Blue that was white!! It puzzled me greatly at first, but it seems that the Furry Blue has a subspecies called vittatus that is endemic to the Cévennes. Sadly, those few I saw never settled with their wings open.
18. FURRY BLUE
19. PIEDMONT RINGLET
I thought this might have been a Scotch Argus, but Guy has plumped for Piedmont Ringlet and I can see that the absence of any underside post-discal band rules out aethiops
20. DUSKY HEATH
Having already seen dozens of Pearly Heaths, I was pretty certain this was something different as its shading was completely different in flight:
DAILY MISCELLANY
I had my first experience of butterflies 'puddling' whilst on the slopes today. There was a boggy area which seemed to emanate from underground and all kinds of species flocked to it to take aboard fluid. I was amazed at how many drowned as a result of this. The area was littered with butterfly corpses ranging from Skippers to Marbled Whites.
I am also now beginning to understand the difficulty in identifying Blues. I scarcely bothered with the females but in the sun and the heat both sexes were very difficult to approach and on the move constantly.
I arrived back at the hotel around 1730hrs and there was still time for one last surprise. On the lavender immediately outside the entrance was a small butterfly that attracted my attention:
21. GERANIUM BRONZE
The hotel owner couldn't understand why I was furiously taking pictures of this little fellow when there were larger, more colourful butterflies on the other lavender bushes. I tried to explain the history of its presence in Europe but I think he thought I was nuts.
"Blur-dee Eengleesh..."
I was up and out by 0815hrs and decided to explore the hillside behind my hotel which led up to the 934m Montagne de Lampezon. The view of the Causse Méjean was even more impressive in the early morning light than it was the previous afternoon.
Unlike in the UK, it only gets light at 6am in this part of France, so for the first hour or so I didn't see any butterflies. That wasn't a problem, as it took me this long to emerge above the dense woodland on the lower slopes to the heathland at 700m. Here I spied a promising, craggy area on a south facing slope which ran parallel to a waste disposal unit. By now, there was plenty of butterfly activity, so I dropped my rucksack and decided to spend some time here.
9. SPOTTED FRITILLARY
Saw a few of these over the course of the week, but never more than one or two in any one area:
The undersides are quite Glanville-like
10. SAFFLOWER SKIPPER
Then came a moment I'd been dreading - my first Pyrgus. Guy reckons this one is Safflower Skipper and after lengthy scrutiny of my field guides I can't see anything to make me disagree with him.
Thankfully, the next species was rather easier to identify:
11. GREAT SOOTY SATYR
This one's a female:
The same individual's underside:
The males are rather darker:
I saw about ten of the next species, but just like their cousins, Wall Browns, they were a bugger to photograph.
12. LARGE WALL BROWN
13. SCARCE SWALLOWTAIL
Didn't see too many of these, which is sad because they are truly spectacular:
I noticed a fox wandering through the scrub after about an hour so I thought I'd better get back to my rucksack which contained my sandwiches. After eating them and necking about a litre of water, I moved on into a combe replete with low growing herbs and scrubby bushes. Here, the butterflies were like confetti - they were everywhere and it was hard to concentrate on individual specimens. I was drawn towards an area near light woodland which seemed to be a favoured spot, and was rewarded with several species I'd hitherto not seen:
14. MARBLED FRITILLARY
Probably the commonest of the larger Fritillaries seen during the week:
There were Blues all over the place (predominantly Adonis), but one seemed noticeably different:
15. MELEAGER'S BLUE
This is the male:
Notice the scalloped hindwings:
Mating pair:
The female is particularly stunning, like an aberrant Chalkhill Blue:
I don't know why the female's hindwings are so much more scalloped than the male's:
16. SOOTY COPPER
I then bumped into this little fellow:
and the female of the species too:
17. BLUE-SPOT HAIRSTREAK
Though not as abundant as Sloe Hairstreaks, this species was nevertheless not hard to find:
Then came a most exciting moment - a Blue that was white!! It puzzled me greatly at first, but it seems that the Furry Blue has a subspecies called vittatus that is endemic to the Cévennes. Sadly, those few I saw never settled with their wings open.
18. FURRY BLUE
19. PIEDMONT RINGLET
I thought this might have been a Scotch Argus, but Guy has plumped for Piedmont Ringlet and I can see that the absence of any underside post-discal band rules out aethiops
20. DUSKY HEATH
Having already seen dozens of Pearly Heaths, I was pretty certain this was something different as its shading was completely different in flight:
DAILY MISCELLANY
I had my first experience of butterflies 'puddling' whilst on the slopes today. There was a boggy area which seemed to emanate from underground and all kinds of species flocked to it to take aboard fluid. I was amazed at how many drowned as a result of this. The area was littered with butterfly corpses ranging from Skippers to Marbled Whites.
I am also now beginning to understand the difficulty in identifying Blues. I scarcely bothered with the females but in the sun and the heat both sexes were very difficult to approach and on the move constantly.
I arrived back at the hotel around 1730hrs and there was still time for one last surprise. On the lavender immediately outside the entrance was a small butterfly that attracted my attention:
21. GERANIUM BRONZE
The hotel owner couldn't understand why I was furiously taking pictures of this little fellow when there were larger, more colourful butterflies on the other lavender bushes. I tried to explain the history of its presence in Europe but I think he thought I was nuts.
"Blur-dee Eengleesh..."
Last edited by David M on Wed Jul 20, 2011 9:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Massif Central - 1st to 7th July 2011
Day 3 - Monday 4 July
Awoke to grey skies and even a drop of rain. I decided to go into Florac to have a browse round the town as well as replenish a few supplies.
The cloud cover remained stubborn although not as leaden as in the early morning, so I thought I'd check out the fields opposite the hotel again to test the water regarding how many butterflies were on the wing.
The sad answer to the question was "not many". I think butterflies must be spoiled in the south of France. If it's not 25C and sunny it's as if they can't be bothered getting out of bed. The butterflies I did see were generally ones I'd disturbed walking through the fields; there was practically nothing flying of its own accord, not even Marbled Whites! The temperature was still about 22C and had this been England I reckon there'd have been plenty of butterflies actively going about their business. It's not just the human population over here that enjoys a siesta seemingly!
I did manage to see a French-version Speckled Wood though, and the day's rest came as a welcome present for my feet!
Awoke to grey skies and even a drop of rain. I decided to go into Florac to have a browse round the town as well as replenish a few supplies.
The cloud cover remained stubborn although not as leaden as in the early morning, so I thought I'd check out the fields opposite the hotel again to test the water regarding how many butterflies were on the wing.
The sad answer to the question was "not many". I think butterflies must be spoiled in the south of France. If it's not 25C and sunny it's as if they can't be bothered getting out of bed. The butterflies I did see were generally ones I'd disturbed walking through the fields; there was practically nothing flying of its own accord, not even Marbled Whites! The temperature was still about 22C and had this been England I reckon there'd have been plenty of butterflies actively going about their business. It's not just the human population over here that enjoys a siesta seemingly!
I did manage to see a French-version Speckled Wood though, and the day's rest came as a welcome present for my feet!
Re: Massif Central - 1st to 7th July 2011
Day 4 - Tuesday 5 July
Glorious, sunny day so I was again up and out before 0830hrs to make my way 550m up the steep Causse Méjean. There were pathways up to the top so I managed to avoid the road for the main part, and because of the richness and diversity of butterflies (not to mention the views) it took me nearly 4 hours to reach the summit.
I could see my hotel clearly from about 1050m up:
The Causse (meaning upland limestone plateau) was dry but very grassy, and there were many herbs growing from the thin soil which, in turn, attracted lots of butterflies (particularly small ones).
There were numerous Silver Studded Blues up there and as I walked along several new species made themselves known.
22. PURPLE-SHOT COPPER
23. NIOBE FRITILLARY
24. DAMON BLUE
The undersides are very like those of Furry Blue, but this species was pale blue rather than a powdery white on the upperwings.
25. QUEEN OF SPAIN FRITILLARY
Didn't see as many of these as I had anticipated - maybe only a dozen or so.
By now, I was right on the top overlooking the sheer drop and the views were incredible:
The Causse itself was an environment I hadn't experienced before:
After spending a couple of hours on the summit, I walked back to where I'd come up and found this critter buzzing around:
26. MALLOW SKIPPER
Further down, I spotted a butterfly thrashing in a spider's web (one of several I rescued from predation during the trip). During the first couple of days, I hadn't given this species any attention as I'd thought they were faded Great Banded Graylings as they're almost the same size:
27. WOODLAND GRAYLING
They were plentiful on the rocky wastelands and after prising this individual from danger, I took a quick snap before releasing it, whereupon it immediately circled round me and landed on my shorts (in gratitude, presumably):
I had almost reached the bottom of the hill when I suddenly noticed something unusual. This was a fairly large Hairstreak-type butterfly with a violet hue. It disappeared a couple of times over a stone wall, but it eventually came back and settled and it turned into the find of the holiday:
28. SPANISH PURPLE HAIRSTREAK
A Hairstreak without any 'hair streaks'!
DAILY MISCELLANY
Hill-topping. I was sceptical about this but it's true. Butterflies do do it! There were 2 Common Swallowtails swooping around at the 1100m highest point as well as two of only four Small Tortoiseshells I saw all week. I guess they don't do it in Britain as they'd die of hypothermia at such an altitude!
Ascalaphids were common on the Causse in the grassy areas. Bizarre creatures.
Any nectar source, even at this altitude, would see large numbers of butterflies congregating around it, even species that you wouldn't associate with gorging themselves en masse. For example, believe it or not, in this picture there are 14 Sloe Hairstreaks and a Silver Studded Blue:
I saw probably 20 or so Large Blues during the week. Quite often I would stand next to them hoping to get an open wing shot. A few obliged sparingly, but eventually my patience paid off as this stunning female, much more heavily marked than its British counterpart, decided to put me out of my misery:
Glorious, sunny day so I was again up and out before 0830hrs to make my way 550m up the steep Causse Méjean. There were pathways up to the top so I managed to avoid the road for the main part, and because of the richness and diversity of butterflies (not to mention the views) it took me nearly 4 hours to reach the summit.
I could see my hotel clearly from about 1050m up:
The Causse (meaning upland limestone plateau) was dry but very grassy, and there were many herbs growing from the thin soil which, in turn, attracted lots of butterflies (particularly small ones).
There were numerous Silver Studded Blues up there and as I walked along several new species made themselves known.
22. PURPLE-SHOT COPPER
23. NIOBE FRITILLARY
24. DAMON BLUE
The undersides are very like those of Furry Blue, but this species was pale blue rather than a powdery white on the upperwings.
25. QUEEN OF SPAIN FRITILLARY
Didn't see as many of these as I had anticipated - maybe only a dozen or so.
By now, I was right on the top overlooking the sheer drop and the views were incredible:
The Causse itself was an environment I hadn't experienced before:
After spending a couple of hours on the summit, I walked back to where I'd come up and found this critter buzzing around:
26. MALLOW SKIPPER
Further down, I spotted a butterfly thrashing in a spider's web (one of several I rescued from predation during the trip). During the first couple of days, I hadn't given this species any attention as I'd thought they were faded Great Banded Graylings as they're almost the same size:
27. WOODLAND GRAYLING
They were plentiful on the rocky wastelands and after prising this individual from danger, I took a quick snap before releasing it, whereupon it immediately circled round me and landed on my shorts (in gratitude, presumably):
I had almost reached the bottom of the hill when I suddenly noticed something unusual. This was a fairly large Hairstreak-type butterfly with a violet hue. It disappeared a couple of times over a stone wall, but it eventually came back and settled and it turned into the find of the holiday:
28. SPANISH PURPLE HAIRSTREAK
A Hairstreak without any 'hair streaks'!
DAILY MISCELLANY
Hill-topping. I was sceptical about this but it's true. Butterflies do do it! There were 2 Common Swallowtails swooping around at the 1100m highest point as well as two of only four Small Tortoiseshells I saw all week. I guess they don't do it in Britain as they'd die of hypothermia at such an altitude!
Ascalaphids were common on the Causse in the grassy areas. Bizarre creatures.
Any nectar source, even at this altitude, would see large numbers of butterflies congregating around it, even species that you wouldn't associate with gorging themselves en masse. For example, believe it or not, in this picture there are 14 Sloe Hairstreaks and a Silver Studded Blue:
I saw probably 20 or so Large Blues during the week. Quite often I would stand next to them hoping to get an open wing shot. A few obliged sparingly, but eventually my patience paid off as this stunning female, much more heavily marked than its British counterpart, decided to put me out of my misery:
Re: Massif Central - 1st to 7th July 2011
That is a wonderful set of photos and narrative to go with it. Lovely. I look forward to seeing the last few days' worth.
Re: Massif Central - 1st to 7th July 2011
Thanks, Susie. I'm afraid there aren't too many species to follow - I'd pretty much exhausted the general species range by the end of Tuesday.Susie wrote:That is a wonderful set of photos and narrative to go with it. Lovely. I look forward to seeing the last few days' worth.
Looking back, what I should have done is spend more time going through smaller areas with a tooth-comb, but of course that's difficult when there's such a plethora of species new to you fluttering about everywhere you look.
Re: Massif Central - 1st to 7th July 2011
Day 5 - Wednesday 6 July
Another stunning day. Why can't we have a few like this in Britain? The temperatures around Nimes are generally around 30-33C at this time of year, but 500-600m altitude takes the edge off them and they're a perfect 25-26C instead. What's more, nights are cool (11-13C), meaning that there's plenty of morning dew and walking up hillsides is rendered very pleasant indeed.
I did precisely that today, making my way up the 1098m Mont de Ramponenche, trying to keep a sensible distance from the young bulls that were wandering on the path half way up.
Again, the sheer numbers of butterflies was astonishing. The brambles/thistles/knapweed were all at their peak, and practically every bloom seemed to attract all manner of species. Had they kept still long enough, I'm sure I could have reeled off 20+ species on a single stretch of hedgerow.
Most of the species on the wing were ones I'd seen previously, so this allowed me to keep an eye out for anything unusual. That wasn't long in coming, as nectaring amongst several Sloe Hairstreaks was a butterfly that looked a bit different:
29. ILEX HAIRSTREAK
When in flight this Hairstreak showed golden brown patches on the upperwings. Having referred to my field guide it seems that this coloration is more pronounced in this region than anywhere else. One fresh looking Ilex was a perfect target and I closed in for a photo. Having got one, I zoomed the lens in again and was about to get the optimum shot when, just as I pressed the shutter, the insect took off. I cursed loudly but then I looked at the playback:
Although a little blurred (the setting was ordinary close up), you can clearly see the upperside markings:
30. KNAPWEED FRITILLARY
Unsurprisingly, this fellow was nectaring on knapweed. Heath-like uppers and Glanville-like undersides.
Even amongst several hundred Blues flying around, this one stood out. It was a beautiful, gleaming shade of blue like Adonis but something didn't seem to fit with bellargus. I took a shot, and after much deliberating (and advice from Guy and Reverdin), established that it wasn't Adonis at all.
31. ESCHER'S BLUE
DAILY MISCELLANY
It hasn't taken long for me to establish a routine.
Get up at 0730, out by 0830, back at 1730, shower, lie on bed cross referencing the butterflies with my 2 field guides for a couple of hours, get dressed, go out for a massive 4 course meal made with fresh, local produce, sink a litre of rosé with the meal, walk back to the hotel in the fading light and go to sleep within seconds of hitting the pillow.
Who needs Prozac?
Another stunning day. Why can't we have a few like this in Britain? The temperatures around Nimes are generally around 30-33C at this time of year, but 500-600m altitude takes the edge off them and they're a perfect 25-26C instead. What's more, nights are cool (11-13C), meaning that there's plenty of morning dew and walking up hillsides is rendered very pleasant indeed.
I did precisely that today, making my way up the 1098m Mont de Ramponenche, trying to keep a sensible distance from the young bulls that were wandering on the path half way up.
Again, the sheer numbers of butterflies was astonishing. The brambles/thistles/knapweed were all at their peak, and practically every bloom seemed to attract all manner of species. Had they kept still long enough, I'm sure I could have reeled off 20+ species on a single stretch of hedgerow.
Most of the species on the wing were ones I'd seen previously, so this allowed me to keep an eye out for anything unusual. That wasn't long in coming, as nectaring amongst several Sloe Hairstreaks was a butterfly that looked a bit different:
29. ILEX HAIRSTREAK
When in flight this Hairstreak showed golden brown patches on the upperwings. Having referred to my field guide it seems that this coloration is more pronounced in this region than anywhere else. One fresh looking Ilex was a perfect target and I closed in for a photo. Having got one, I zoomed the lens in again and was about to get the optimum shot when, just as I pressed the shutter, the insect took off. I cursed loudly but then I looked at the playback:
Although a little blurred (the setting was ordinary close up), you can clearly see the upperside markings:
30. KNAPWEED FRITILLARY
Unsurprisingly, this fellow was nectaring on knapweed. Heath-like uppers and Glanville-like undersides.
Even amongst several hundred Blues flying around, this one stood out. It was a beautiful, gleaming shade of blue like Adonis but something didn't seem to fit with bellargus. I took a shot, and after much deliberating (and advice from Guy and Reverdin), established that it wasn't Adonis at all.
31. ESCHER'S BLUE
DAILY MISCELLANY
It hasn't taken long for me to establish a routine.
Get up at 0730, out by 0830, back at 1730, shower, lie on bed cross referencing the butterflies with my 2 field guides for a couple of hours, get dressed, go out for a massive 4 course meal made with fresh, local produce, sink a litre of rosé with the meal, walk back to the hotel in the fading light and go to sleep within seconds of hitting the pillow.
Who needs Prozac?
Re: Massif Central - 1st to 7th July 2011
Day 6 - Thursday 7 July
Sadly, another overcast scene greeted me this morning, so I took off into Florac to the cybercafé (yes, they STILL have them here), had a snack and came back to sort my case out for departure the following day.
The clouds still hadn't lifted by 1500hrs, so I figured I had nothing to lose by checking out the waste ground opposite the hotel again:
Again, there wasn't much about, but I had nothing else to do so I systematically walked through each field, combing the ground for any butterflies that might be lurking. I disturbed one or two - a Dark Green Fritillary kept me company for a while along with a couple of Great Banded Graylings. Finally, something small zipped out from the grass:
32. OBERTHUR'S GRIZZLED SKIPPER
Again, thanks to Guy for providing the ID prompt. Looking at the guides at length it seems Oberthur's is the closest match.
Umbelliferous blooms had been a prolific source of Hairstreak activity all week, but in spite of this, I was still quite shocked to see a pristine White Letter Hairstreak alone on a flower-head at least 100m from the nearest mature tree:
Back and forth I went, but little emerged from the foliage. I was about to call it a day when I spotted a White fluttering some distance away. It wasn't a Black-Veined White, and I had seen only a dozen or so Small Whites and one Green Veined all week, so I walked towards it to check it out. I was glad I did.
33. BATH WHITE
This was the only flower it was interested in, and it would fly all over the place to find one, yet once settled would be up and off again within seconds.
I don't normally alter the brightness/contrast in my photos, but the dim conditions allied to the pure white ground colour forced me to make a few adjustments in the two pictures above. The one below is unadulterated.
Sadly, another overcast scene greeted me this morning, so I took off into Florac to the cybercafé (yes, they STILL have them here), had a snack and came back to sort my case out for departure the following day.
The clouds still hadn't lifted by 1500hrs, so I figured I had nothing to lose by checking out the waste ground opposite the hotel again:
Again, there wasn't much about, but I had nothing else to do so I systematically walked through each field, combing the ground for any butterflies that might be lurking. I disturbed one or two - a Dark Green Fritillary kept me company for a while along with a couple of Great Banded Graylings. Finally, something small zipped out from the grass:
32. OBERTHUR'S GRIZZLED SKIPPER
Again, thanks to Guy for providing the ID prompt. Looking at the guides at length it seems Oberthur's is the closest match.
Umbelliferous blooms had been a prolific source of Hairstreak activity all week, but in spite of this, I was still quite shocked to see a pristine White Letter Hairstreak alone on a flower-head at least 100m from the nearest mature tree:
Back and forth I went, but little emerged from the foliage. I was about to call it a day when I spotted a White fluttering some distance away. It wasn't a Black-Veined White, and I had seen only a dozen or so Small Whites and one Green Veined all week, so I walked towards it to check it out. I was glad I did.
33. BATH WHITE
This was the only flower it was interested in, and it would fly all over the place to find one, yet once settled would be up and off again within seconds.
I don't normally alter the brightness/contrast in my photos, but the dim conditions allied to the pure white ground colour forced me to make a few adjustments in the two pictures above. The one below is unadulterated.
Last edited by David M on Wed Jul 20, 2011 9:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Lee Hurrell
- Stock Contributor
- Posts: 2423
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- Location: Hampshire
Re: Massif Central - 1st to 7th July 2011
Enjoying your report David, looks like you saw some lovely things there.
I like your daily miscellany bits too!
Cheers
Lee
I like your daily miscellany bits too!
Cheers
Lee
To butterfly meadows, chalk downlands and leafy glades; to summers eternal.
Re: Massif Central - 1st to 7th July 2011
Hi David,
a nice report - which I enjoyed reading, and a good collection of photos too. While the poor-ish weather may be a bit irritating, the trade-off is the diversity of species in the Massif Central. The thought of the South of France may be nice but some species seem to disappear off the map there due to the higher temperatures, it seems to me. I especially enjoyed the collection of Hairstreaks and the Large Blue (I hoped I'd see this myself on holiday, but no luck). Also a nice collection of photos of the wonderful Maleager's Blue. I know the guides often say locally 'common' but I think it's a wonderful species to see, markedly different to the other blues (except that the males - as you Lee and Guy have pointed - out aren't quite as different!
).
France is a great place to visit - I've never understood some peoples' reservations to the place. The fact that the Language and the road signs are so easy to read is a big plus as well!
Michael
a nice report - which I enjoyed reading, and a good collection of photos too. While the poor-ish weather may be a bit irritating, the trade-off is the diversity of species in the Massif Central. The thought of the South of France may be nice but some species seem to disappear off the map there due to the higher temperatures, it seems to me. I especially enjoyed the collection of Hairstreaks and the Large Blue (I hoped I'd see this myself on holiday, but no luck). Also a nice collection of photos of the wonderful Maleager's Blue. I know the guides often say locally 'common' but I think it's a wonderful species to see, markedly different to the other blues (except that the males - as you Lee and Guy have pointed - out aren't quite as different!
).France is a great place to visit - I've never understood some peoples' reservations to the place. The fact that the Language and the road signs are so easy to read is a big plus as well!
Michael
Re: Massif Central - 1st to 7th July 2011
I guess at this latitude you must find elevation to see large numbers of butterflies. I really noticed the difference when I returned to Nimes for my flight - it was stinking hot, about 34C, and no-one can do much in those temperatures.Michaeljf wrote:Hi David,
a nice report - which I enjoyed reading, and a good collection of photos too. While the poor-ish weather may be a bit irritating, the trade-off is the diversity of species in the Massif Central. The thought of the South of France may be nice but some species seem to disappear off the map there due to the higher temperatures, it seems to me. I especially enjoyed the collection of Hairstreaks and the Large Blue (I hoped I'd see this myself on holiday, but no luck). Also a nice collection of photos of the wonderful Maleager's Blue. I know the guides often say locally 'common' but I think it's a wonderful species to see, markedly different to the other blues (except that the males - as you Lee and Guy have pointed - out aren't quite as different!
France is a great place to visit - I've never understood some peoples' reservations to the place. The fact that the Language and the road signs are so easy to read is a big plus as well!
Michael
I was disappointed about the hire car, as I really wanted to go up Mont Lozére (1699m) and Mont Aigoual (1567m). Both these peaks are granite, so the vegetation and the range of butterfly species would have been somewhat different to those on the limestone Causses. Scarce Copper and Apollo are recorded here as well as a few other species I missed out on. The additional 400m altitude (I only got up to about 1100m) would have made a difference too.
Agree with what you say about France. It isn't the world's most visited nation by accident; it caters for just about everything. It's easy for me to say because I used to live there, but France should no longer elicit trepidation in UK travellers. Many French speak rudimentary English at least and there is a reassuring uniformity wherever you go in things like restaurant services, road signs, public transport, etc.
I'm certain I will go back there next year (but I'll make sure I get a credit card so I can hire a bloody car!!)
Re: Massif Central - 1st to 7th July 2011
SUMMARY
Typically, the morning upon which I needed to travel back home was glorious. I was at the bus station for 0830hrs and took one last picture of the rugged limestone causse which provides the backdrop to Florac:
In total I saw 33 non-UK species (there were probably more but this was the number of positive IDs), but of additional interest was the number of British species seen as well. Some of our rarer ones were positively abundant yet there were a few commoner ones that I saw little of. I saw 38 British species in total, meaning that at least 71 different types of butterfly were seen at some point during what was, effectively, a 4 day window (3 full days and two half days).
I'll attempt to summarise the UK species here:
Super-abundant
Marbled White - I wouldn't be exaggerating to state that 20,000+ were seen. They were everywhere, filling niches that you wouldn't normally associate them with such as on the tops of exposed hills and in dense woodland.
Abundant
Adonis Blue
Heath Fritillary
Lulworth Skipper
Small Skipper
Silver Studded Blue
Common
Grayling
Large White
Meadow Brown
Silver Washed Fritillary
Small Heath
A few here and there (more than 10, fewer than 50)
Clouded Yellow
Brimstone
Brown Argus
Common Blue
Dark Green Fritillary
Large Blue
Large Skipper
Peacock
Ringlet
Small Copper
Small White
Speckled Wood
Wall Brown
Wood White
Single figures
Comma - 2 seen
Essex Skipper - 1 seen (probably many more as I only identified one just to establish their presence. After that I simply ignored them)
Hedge Brown - only 1 seen
Green Veined White - incredibly, just 1 seen
Holly Blue - 1 seen
High Brown Fritillary - 3 positively identified, including one on the hotel lavender bush!!
Painted Lady - 1 seen
Red Admiral - 1 seen
Small Blue - 4 seen
Small Tortoiseshell - 4 seen
Swallowtail - 7 seen
White Admiral - 1 seen
White Letter Hairstreak - 1 seen
Typically, the morning upon which I needed to travel back home was glorious. I was at the bus station for 0830hrs and took one last picture of the rugged limestone causse which provides the backdrop to Florac:
In total I saw 33 non-UK species (there were probably more but this was the number of positive IDs), but of additional interest was the number of British species seen as well. Some of our rarer ones were positively abundant yet there were a few commoner ones that I saw little of. I saw 38 British species in total, meaning that at least 71 different types of butterfly were seen at some point during what was, effectively, a 4 day window (3 full days and two half days).
I'll attempt to summarise the UK species here:
Super-abundant
Marbled White - I wouldn't be exaggerating to state that 20,000+ were seen. They were everywhere, filling niches that you wouldn't normally associate them with such as on the tops of exposed hills and in dense woodland.
Abundant
Adonis Blue
Heath Fritillary
Lulworth Skipper
Small Skipper
Silver Studded Blue
Common
Grayling
Large White
Meadow Brown
Silver Washed Fritillary
Small Heath
A few here and there (more than 10, fewer than 50)
Clouded Yellow
Brimstone
Brown Argus
Common Blue
Dark Green Fritillary
Large Blue
Large Skipper
Peacock
Ringlet
Small Copper
Small White
Speckled Wood
Wall Brown
Wood White
Single figures
Comma - 2 seen
Essex Skipper - 1 seen (probably many more as I only identified one just to establish their presence. After that I simply ignored them)
Hedge Brown - only 1 seen
Green Veined White - incredibly, just 1 seen
Holly Blue - 1 seen
High Brown Fritillary - 3 positively identified, including one on the hotel lavender bush!!
Painted Lady - 1 seen
Red Admiral - 1 seen
Small Blue - 4 seen
Small Tortoiseshell - 4 seen
Swallowtail - 7 seen
White Admiral - 1 seen
White Letter Hairstreak - 1 seen
Last edited by David M on Thu Jul 21, 2011 7:57 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Charles Nicol
- Posts: 1603
- Joined: Mon May 14, 2007 12:57 pm
- Location: Cambridge
Re: Massif Central - 1st to 7th July 2011
i really enjoyed looking at the pics & reading the lively text.
i am off in a few days to the south of France so hope to see some of those species
charles
i am off in a few days to the south of France so hope to see some of those species
charles
Re: Massif Central - 1st to 7th July 2011
I have no doubt you'll see plenty even if you don't put a great deal of effort in.Charles Nicol wrote: i am off in a few days to the south of France so hope to see some of those species
Where exactly are you going, Charles?
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Charles Nicol
- Posts: 1603
- Joined: Mon May 14, 2007 12:57 pm
- Location: Cambridge
Re: Massif Central - 1st to 7th July 2011
hi David
i am flying in to Montpellier tomorrow, then picking up the GR 653 long distance footpath heading west towards Toulouse.
i will walk the path for 4 weeks then divert to Carcassonne for the final week.
the footpath is actually a pilgrim route which eventually crosses to Spain and Santiago de Compostela.
there are pilgrim hostels at regular intervals but i will be mainly camping out.
hopefully i will see some of the lovely species which you found !!
best wishes
Charles
i am flying in to Montpellier tomorrow, then picking up the GR 653 long distance footpath heading west towards Toulouse.
i will walk the path for 4 weeks then divert to Carcassonne for the final week.
the footpath is actually a pilgrim route which eventually crosses to Spain and Santiago de Compostela.
there are pilgrim hostels at regular intervals but i will be mainly camping out.
hopefully i will see some of the lovely species which you found !!
best wishes
Charles
Re: Massif Central - 1st to 7th July 2011
Charles, that sounds positively idyllic.Charles Nicol wrote:hi David
i am flying in to Montpellier tomorrow, then picking up the GR 653 long distance footpath heading west towards Toulouse.
i will walk the path for 4 weeks then divert to Carcassonne for the final week.
the footpath is actually a pilgrim route which eventually crosses to Spain and Santiago de Compostela.
there are pilgrim hostels at regular intervals but i will be mainly camping out.
hopefully i will see some of the lovely species which you found !!
best wishes
Charles
Toulouse is where I used to live, and Carcassonne is also a place I'm extremely familiar with. I presume you'll be following the Canal du Midi for at least some of the way?
If you get chance there's a stunning place called Collioure near to Perpignan (easily accessible by rail).
If I win the lottery this weekend I'll not only join you but I'll pay for you!
Bon voyage.
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Charles Nicol
- Posts: 1603
- Joined: Mon May 14, 2007 12:57 pm
- Location: Cambridge
Re: Massif Central - 1st to 7th July 2011
Thanks for offering to share your lottery success David !!
I will hopefully walk as far as Castres then get a bus to Carcassonne from there. If there are no buses then probably a train via Toulouse.
I have heard bad reports about a place near Castres called Mazamet... lots of travellers say you should avoid it at all costs.
Have you been there ?
Charles
I will hopefully walk as far as Castres then get a bus to Carcassonne from there. If there are no buses then probably a train via Toulouse.
I have heard bad reports about a place near Castres called Mazamet... lots of travellers say you should avoid it at all costs.
Have you been there ?
Charles