South Cevennes Trip, France, April 2011

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Michaeljf
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South Cevennes Trip, France, April 2011

Post by Michaeljf »

Hi all,

This is my write-up of our one week holiday in Tourgueille, Cevennes region, during the second week of the Easter break. The place we stayed ‘Chez billy’, is owned by an English couple who have re-situated in France. Tourgueille is a small hamlet near the very southernmost edge of the Cevennes National Park – a two hour drive from Nimes Airport, and about half an hour drive from St Jean de Gard. It’s a quiet spot perfect for nature walks – the villagers are friendly but are quite content to let you get on with your own thing. This was our second visit, so we are just getting a handle on some of the best walks around the village and the nearby mountain range


Sunday 24th April
We got up at 0:30 am – hardly time for a sleep – and flew from Luton Airport and got into Nimes Airport at 9.10 in the morning. With an hour to check-in, and a couple of hours to get to our hamlet of Tourgueille via Anduze (plus picking up a bit of shopping) we arrived after mid-day. The first butterfly seen was a Camberwell Beauty - at the bottom of the garden near the neighbours’ stashed log-pile. Unfortunately I only had my macro-lens on me when I walked to the end of the garden so the butterfly was soon off and I wondered if I would get another chance during the holiday to see a Camberwell Beauty! Other butterflies in the garden were ‘slightly tatty’ Weavers Fritillary and the occasional Dingy and Grizzled Skippers. We spent the afternoon walking down the main road and saw several Provencal Fritillaries and plenty of Pale Clouded yellows. We also watched next doors sheep sheep herded via the gardens at the back of the house and watched a local Black Redstart also in the back garden. A kestrel was seen hovering above the house and Crag Martins were flying round the roof.

Other butterflies such as Brimstone, Peacock, Wood White, Black-veined White, Small Heath, Small Copper, Scarce Swallowtail, Wall and Orange Tip would fly through the garden which has Lilacs in bloom in spring replacing the Buddleias that are in bloom during Summer. I was also passed several times in the garden by a large butterfly – possibly a Large Tortoiseshell trying to dive-bomb me.

Monday 25th AprilI took some photos of the Crag Martins first thing while they were clinging to the walls of the nearby houses – they were too fast to photograph when on the wing. We then drove to Col-du-Pas (mountain range about 25 minutes drive away) and saw a Hare in the woods on the way. We walked North from the Col-du-Pas (a route we had tried in our summer visit) but disappointingly the scrub on the trail had been burnt in several places and there was very little in terms of butterflies except Small Coppers and Walls and the Southern form of the Speckled Wood. So we walked back to Col-du-Pas and drove to a small roadside walk further down the road (about 300 yards). Here we saw the strange insect Ascalaphid (a Yellow & Black insect related to ant lions) and several blues – I presume these were Adonis Blues. Several Silver-Washed Friillaries were passing over the path (about 2 months early in their emergence!) The weather was nice at this point. We then went back to Chez Billy then a brief storm came in and washed the afternoon out. Later – about 4pm – we did a walk from further east down road (walking up the slopes above the village) – and saw several strange Beetle larvae feeding on Bedstraw plants after the rain. We also got to the turn in the path where there were some local bee Hives. Rain and thunder started again so we returned to base. Along this route we had seen Wall Browns, Small Coppers, Adonis Blues, Pale Clouded Yellow and driving back from Col-du-Pas we saw various assorted Fritillaries resting on the road – these remained unidentified for the moment. I was left feeling nervous at the end of the second day – would the weather be a wash-out for any more of the week?



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Chez Billy in the hamlet of Tourgueille

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Weavers Fritillary - in the back garden..

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First view of Provincal Fritillary in the heard of the village

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Underwing shot, Provincal Fritillary.

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Another underwing photo.

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This one stops during a proper bit of sunny spells..

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Walk near Col-du-Pas

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Ascalaphid - a strange but beautiful insect..

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First sight of what I presume to be an Adonis Blue.

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Underwings photo.

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Couple of Adonis Blues mating on the local 'white heather' shrubs.

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A millipede crossing the path.

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Crag Martin on one of the houses opposite our Gite.

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Plenty of Sweet Chesnut Trees on the walk about the Villages.

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I think this is a Grizzled Skipper, but you know..someone else might know otherwise.

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Strange Beetle Larvae feeding after the afternoon storm on Lady's Bedstraw plants.
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Padfield
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Re: South Cevennes Trip, France, April 2011

Post by Padfield »

Great pictures, especially that Provençal frit! A beautiful insect, and so fresh.

Yes, your skipper is malvoides.

Guy
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Re: South Cevennes Trip, France, April 2011

Post by Michaeljf »

padfield wrote:Great pictures, especially that Provençal frit! A beautiful insect, and so fresh. Yes, your skipper is malvoides. Guy
Thanks Guy.
Glad I've got a few ID's right as well! :wink: Funny thing - is that when I first saw the Provencal Fritillary, I didn't think I'd get a photo, it flew over a local wall, then came back, and finally stopped and posed very nicely for me. It's all very well being in the right spot but a bit of luck always helps. It looked to me like a lot of the Provencal Frits were quite newly hatched. We'd passed through some 'dodgy' weather driving up and the sun came out nicely for the first afternoon.

Michael
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David M
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Re: South Cevennes Trip, France, April 2011

Post by David M »

Magnificent stuff, Michael.

I'll be spending a whole week in the Cevennes in early July and your post has whetted my appetite.
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Re: South Cevennes Trip, France, April 2011

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Tuesday 26th April
We started the day by walking up the same path as the previous afternoon above the village. The light was much better for photographs and we saw Wall Browns, the Silver-Washed Fritillaries, Peacocks, Grizzled Skippers, Small Heaths, Large Whites and a Deer (as usual too fast to photograph). There were lots of Cuckoo and Woodpecker Calls to be heard all over the village.

We went down to Les abrits – another hamlet just down the road with a Riverside walk, which we had discovered during our summer visit. The first part of this walk is a rock-bordered spot with plenty of wild herbs, Brambles and Broom / Hawthorn bushes. Here we saw several Green Hairstreaks, some Wood Whites, Silver-washed Fritillary, Brown Argus, Orange Tips, and a whole colony of Duke of Burgundy butterflies. These were displaying the sort of behaviour I’d read about, continually fighting for their particular spot, only to go back to their favoured spot. Sometimes they would attack a passing Green Hairstreak for no other reason than to protect their spot! There were also some Provincal Fritillaries, Speckled Wood, Small Copper and Scarce Swallowtail. The Swallowtails unfortunately would rarely stop for a photograph.

We walked over bridge across the river – and went above Village and saw a couple of Sooty Coopers. When we returned to the bridge we went to our left to a nearby fallow field – here there were plenty of Glanville fritillaries nectaring from Bugle flowers. There were other Coppers (later identified as Female Sooty Copper) Small Heath, Small Copper and some unidentified Blues. We returned home (my wife departed to do some food shopping!). I stayed at home and walked to the West side of the village and saw Queen of Spain Fritillary, Scarce Swallowtail, unidentified Blues, Marbled Skipper, Peacock & Pale Clouded Yellows. When I went back to Chez Billy I returned to the garden and saw a Large Tortoiseshell on the neighbours’ log pile (this one could have been photographed but it was extremely faded after over-wintering). It was a tiring but excellent day with warm temperatures and sun most of the day.

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Wall Brown during our first walk of the day.

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The woods covered with Sweet Chestnuts look more lovely in the morning sun.

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View across the hills from above our local villages.

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Wood White nectaring from Bugle beside the river walk.

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The Bugle flowers have their own beauty. And provide a good nectar source for so many spring butterflies!

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Duke of Burgundy, sitting proudly on its perch.

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Another fine Duke of Burgundy. A pleasure to spend the morning with!

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A view of the walk beside the river at Les abrits.

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My first Sooty Copper of the visit, this one on red clover.

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Unidentified (Fritillary?) Caterpillar on Bramble leaves.

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Sooty Copper female. At least I presume so..

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Another Male Sooty Copper.

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Green Hairstreak, sometimes fighting for the same spots as the Duke of Burgundy.

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A Provincal Fritillary again, though this one could be confused for a Knapweed Fritillary perhaps?
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Re: South Cevennes Trip, France, April 2011

Post by Michaeljf »

David M wrote:Magnificent stuff, Michael. I'll be spending a whole week in the Cevennes in early July and your post has whetted my appetite.
Thanks David. You can't beat a week spent wandering about the French countryside and villages, especially if you get good weather :) .
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Re: South Cevennes Trip, France, April 2011

Post by David M »

Michaeljf wrote:
David M wrote:Magnificent stuff, Michael. I'll be spending a whole week in the Cevennes in early July and your post has whetted my appetite.
Thanks David. You can't beat a week spent wandering about the French countryside and villages, especially if you get good weather :) .
I think that's a 'given' come early July in the southern Cevennes.
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Re: South Cevennes Trip, France, April 2011

Post by Padfield »

Your caterpillar is a marbled fritillary, Brenthis daphne.

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Re: South Cevennes Trip, France, April 2011

Post by Michaeljf »

padfield wrote:Your caterpillar is a marbled fritillary, Brenthis daphne.Guy
Thanks Guy - it makes sense, as we saw the adult Butterflies of the Marbled Fritillary when we visited in Summer (in the garden and elsewhere). :wink:
Michael
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Re: South Cevennes Trip, France, April 2011

Post by Lee Hurrell »

Lovely report and pictures Michael, looking forward to the next instalment.

Like David, I'm also going to France soon and am very much looking forward to it!

Cheers

Lee
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Re: South Cevennes Trip, France, April 2011

Post by Paul Wetton »

Great stuff Michael.

I also can't wait for the next installment. Great photos.

I'll be in the Alps in just under 7 weeks. Can't wait.
Cheers Paul
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Re: South Cevennes Trip, France, April 2011

Post by Michaeljf »

Paul Wetton wrote:I also can't wait for the next installment. Great photos. I'll be in the Alps in just under 7 weeks. Can't wait.
Hi Paul & Lee,
thanks for your kind comments - I can always improve my images, but it's nice to share anyway. :wink:

Paul - I know I'll wish I was going to the Alps too. We ditched the idea of two holidays this year (Bulgaria and the Swiss Alps) were our two destinations, then we decided we could only aford one, hence dropping the Swiss Alps. It is a bit pricey, though I know you're camping so that does reduce the cost. Not sure I'm capable of doing the camping lark yet! Anyway, then my wife said she'd pay for a second holiday, and the France trip was cheap (relatively) and we've missed going back to France for the last 2 years etc. Funny thing, is that now I wish we were going there in summer again, because now I've established a few more walks I reckon I could see quite a few more species...plus I concentrated on Panoramas last summer visit, and could have done with taking a few more photos generally of the plants, various insects & birds. :)

I'm sure you'll get some great images and videos in the Alps Paul, so expect me to order a copy of your next DVD! :mrgreen:

Thanks
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Re: South Cevennes Trip, France, April 2011

Post by Michaeljf »

Anyway, so where was I? :wink:

Wednesday 27th April
We left the house at about 7:30 am and drove to Le Rozier (about 2 hours drive away) where the gorges are inhabited by many species of raptors, including Griffin Vultures. This turned out to be a beautiful section of landscape, though incidentally there were plenty of Birds of Prey but none near enough to get a good photograph. We took one of the walking routes up from the centre of the village (this one started by the Tourist centre) and walked for several hours up the gorge: there were some fantastic views and we also saw some people rock-climbing up the top of the gorge – some were going up a virtual cliff-face. On the walk near the top of the gorge / mountains there were quite a few alpine flowers and some very nicely-sized green lizards (they would often disappear very quickly though I did managed to photograph one of the smaller lizards). In general the butterflies didn’t appear until about 11:30 am then there were plenty of Scarce Swallowtails, Swallowtails, Pale Clouded Yellows & Cleopatra’s. Wall Browns and Speckled Woods (Southern version, almost unrecognisable in colour when compared to our UK version) were ever-present. Walking back to the village saw a range of Blues (Green-underside?), Queen of Spain Fritillary, Weavers Fritillary and, Hummingbird Hawkmoths. The base of the mountain was particularly good for both types of Swallowtails, though now the butterflies were all very hot and rarely stopped. At this point I felt a bit worse for wear so maybe I was a bit dehydrated!

We stopped briefly in the village at a small cafe for a drink and an ice-cream (even though everything was closed for lunch – a bit of a lucky break to find the cafe open!). We then walked along the river at the east entrance of the village. There were several Lilacs in bloom along the river – and we saw about 5 or 6 Broad-Bordered Bee HawkMoths around the flowers. There were also plenty of Orange Tips, Speckled Woods and Wood Whites. The sky clouded over at this point so we left for Chez Billy. When back at the gite I photographed some Grizzled Skipper and Small Heaths in the garden.

Thursday 28th April.
First thing after getting up – I saw a red Squirrel just outside our house. Karen was busy turning the car around so unfortunately I didn’t have a camera – the Squirrel would have been very easy to photograph – it could only have been about 10 yards away from me. Again we went to the Riverside walk (from Tuesday) and saw more Sooty Coppers & Green Hairstreaks. We went into the adjoining Meadow where the Glanville fritillaries had been joined by Provincal Fritillaries and possibly Knapweed Fritillaries, and also some common blues. We walked the road above the river for further than previously, and saw a nice fresh Swallowtail (it soon flew over some of the stepped beds so I was unable to photograph it). Again there were more Green Hairstreaks and Small Heaths. On return to the river we stayed on the far bank, going downstream and saw some Dingy Skippers and a passing-through Camberwell Beauty. Again there were lots more Duke of Burgundy fresh individuals, Clouded Yellow & Holly Blue.

For the afternoon we walked in the mountains to the North of the Col-du-Pas the opposite side of the ‘grande randonnee’ walk we had done first thing on the Monday – this walk could be nice (ferns, violets, Chestnut, despite being on North face of mountain) but the weather had clouded over a bit. We noticed one of the local green lizards going back to its lair in the stone wall – perhaps I would check this one again a few days later. A bit tired, we went back for dinner with our hosts Richard & Kate. The forecast for Friday wasn’t fantastic but we decided to stay in our area for the next day hoping it would be better than the forecast, especially as we ended up going late to bed – and didn’t fancy an early start..

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View of Le Rozier village from the walk into the mountain range / top of the gorges.

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Great views of the mountain tops..

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Some beautiful alpine flowers on the way

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More alpine flowers. Small is beautiful!

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The southern form of the Speckled Wood. Very different colours from the UK version! Sometimes they looked like Fritillaries in flight!

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Plenty of lizards, normally vanishing fairly quickly when walking past..

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Some great places for climbing, if you like that sort of thing!

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Various Clouded Yellows were near the tops of the mountain - in the heat they would rarely stop.

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Also Scarce Swallowtails and Swallowtails were abundant, especially near the foot of the mountain range nearer the town of Le Rozier.

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There were plenty of Broad-Bordered Bee Hawkmoths nectaring from Lilacs near the river in the Le Rozier Village.

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Back at our village the Small Heaths were taking up the last rays of the sun.

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Back at Tourgueille - Dingy Skippers enjoying the sun near the river.

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Duke of Burgundy butterflies were still looking fresh.

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Another Grizzled Skipper (?) (a bit taggy) in our Gite Garden.
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Re: South Cevennes Trip, France, April 2011

Post by Padfield »

I'd say that last skipper is almost certainly malvoides, though I wouldn't be prepared to guarantee that without seeing the underside.

More great pictures, Michael! It's interesting to compare your male sooty coppers with their upland cousins. This is a sooty copper from near me this year:

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Much 'sootier' - an adaptation for heating up quickly in the rarefied Alpine air. Yours are liberally trimmed in orange, and the first appears to be 'caerulopunctata', though that is probably not the right word for this species.


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Re: South Cevennes Trip, France, April 2011

Post by Michaeljf »

Hi Guy,
thanks for the Skipper ID - I did take an underside shot, but the weather was really quite dull at that point and hand-held and with the sun coming through the wings, it was about as useful as if I'd done a quick sketch with a pencil! :roll: I like your Sooty Copper picture though - especially a nice contrast against the green background. All your shots have a fantastic sharpness, as do so many of the best photographers on here (Paul's recent images of the Festoons being a classic example). The standard is so consistently high with so many posters here. I still need to 'raise my game'.

It surprised me when I first realised that the Sooty Copper Males were the duller colours - not the usual state of affairs with the butterflies.
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Re: South Cevennes Trip, France, April 2011

Post by Charles Nicol »

Very enjoyable reports Michael & super photos.
Makes me want to go back to France soon

Charles

8) 8)
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Re: South Cevennes Trip, France, April 2011

Post by Paul Wetton »

Hi Michael more interesting shots of scenery as well as the wildlife. The mountainous shot looks very similar to the tarn gorge where I've been.

Shame we couldn't meet up in the Alps. I was going to rush around and try for as many species as possible but I'm slowly getting into the frame of mind to spend time at the best spots we find and take it nice and easy.

If we meet up with Guy may have to get the walking boots on and do some more serious hikes.

All the best.
Cheers Paul
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Re: South Cevennes Trip, France, April 2011

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Friday 29th April
We awoke to a sky filled with light cloud, and the forecast wasn’t great. During the evening meal on Thursday our hosts had mentioned that the walk we’d done on Monday afternoon / Tuesday morning to the east of the hamlets met up with a path to the end of Tourgueille on the west of our hamlet, and as this was leading up into the forest I thought this might be a good walk, especially for woodland species. The walk turned out to be a good move – the forest was full of different types of deciduous trees and the road was lined on both sides for much of the way with Broom bushes. The sun kept on trying to break through, upon which we saw loads of Orange Tips, Glanville Fritillaries, Scarce Swallowtails and several large moths (I wasn’t sure if these were Oak Eggars? Looking again at the pictures obviously not). The top path of the walk flattened out where there were plenty of Birds-foot Trefoil and some Scabious flowers, but due to the low cloud there was just the occasional Blue. Due to the incoming cloud we went back to our Gite, whereup the clouds opened up and we ended up inside watching the rain (well, it was forecast!). We broke the afternoon up by driving into St Jean de Garde but the rain continued and the rest of the afternoon was a write-off.

Saturday 30th April (Last Day)
Am I the only one that panics slightly on the last day? I always hope that I can finish off a good trip with a good last day, but when you’re dependent on nature, a strange area and the weather, you really can only do your best and hope!! The forecast was for good weather so we started with our Northward walk above Col-du-Pas that we’d done on Thursday afternoon. First, we visited our ‘Green lizard’ spot, and sure enough, there was the one we’d seen on Thursday but this time he/she was out in clear view on the rocks warming up in the early morning sunshine, so we watched the beauty for about ten minutes and got some nice photos. Unfortunately, walking further down the walk, although the light was much better than Thursday afternoon the mountain was still without the sunshine because of the nature of the angle of the mountain, and the path was very slippery because of the previous nights’ dew. There were however signs of Wild Boar that had churned up several points of the undergrowth. The cloud came over so we briefly checked out the path 300 yards down the road, where we had been on Monday. The Ascalaphid’s were out in quite a few numbers now, but there were fewer butterflies as the mountain was getting colder under the cloud.

We headed back to the path above the village into the forest that started at the west end of the hamlet (we had walked on Friday morning). Luckily back near the village the weather was better and now we got to see the forest walk in good weather. There were still the Glanville Fritillaries and Orange Tips but now they were joined by the Provincal Fritillaries, and on the plateau of the walk there were now plenty of Adonis Blues, Small Coppers and Pale Clouded Yellows. Walking back to the turn of the road near the apex of the walk (marked by a waterfall) I stopped dead in my tracks because I noticed a Camberwell Beauty stopped on the path, taking up the salts from the stones. This time I managed to get a photograph – this might be my only chance for the week! Walking another ten yards there was another Camberwell Beauty, slightly ‘taggier’ than the first. And then a third individual another ten yards down the path. Finally my ‘past-walking-experience-gathered-sense’ for where butterflies might be had paid off. We watched the Camberwell Beauties for about ten minutes – such beautiful fliers, and such an unusual visual pattern that is pretty much unmistakeable. To me this was a great end to the holiday. Except it wasn’t quite over (don’t worry, excitement doesn’t follow).

We ventured back to the river walk in the heart of the villages. Again the cloud threatened and again I watched the clouds roam too and fro. I saw another Bee Hawkmoth, and various individuals of the assorted butterfly cast from the previous days. We saw a Short-Toed Eagle pass over, and I saw some more Skippers, one I wasn’t too sure about. Also a completely unidentifiable (large) butterfly flew past me that will remain the ‘yeti’ of the visit. So we returned back to our Gite tired but happy. Maybe I hadn’t seen any completely new species in the final day, but I finally had seen Camberwell Beauties in some numbers, in their proper natural surroundings. These are the moments to treasure!

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Walk to the North of Col-du-Pas. Some beautiful views of the mountains plus a surprisingly good variation of deciduous trees.

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View back down the path in the other direction. Very slippery surface worth being careful on...Wild Boar holes not shown..

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Green Lizard warming up in the early morning sun.

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Notice the lizards lack of tail. At least the lizard survived, obviously..

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Glanville Fritillaries on the local Broom bushes that were commonplace but beautiful.

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Glanville Fritillary underwing shot. Hopefully I did get this ID right!

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Unidentified moth. I thought this was an Eggar at the time, now I'm thinking maybe not...

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Pale Clouded Yellows - very quick in the sun. This one stayed long enough to photograph, Trefoil and Vetch helping out.

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Path on the plateau of the forest walk. Flowers showing against the right of the path.

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Adonis Blues were amongst the species nectaring on the mountain path.

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Very nice red hues on the underwing of the Adonis Blue.

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On the path the Glanville Fritillaries gave their best displays.

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When the cloud comes over is the time for the Glanvilles to stop.

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Provincal Fritillary on the dandilion head.

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Finally, a Camberwell Beauty that stays still. Even in their post-winter condition they are still stunning.

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A final skipper. Not sure about this one...
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Re: South Cevennes Trip, France, April 2011

Post by Padfield »

Hi Michael,

I strongly suspect that's Berger's, both from the wing shape and the fact it's feeding on horseshoe vetch (assuming that's the plant). That is also the commoner species there.

The skipper is red underwing (Spialia sertorius).

Lovely pictures, of the butterflies and the region.

Guy
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Re: South Cevennes Trip, France, April 2011

Post by Michaeljf »

Hi Guy,
thanks for the ID's for both species, and the kind comments :) . I have a few more queries (mostly blues) that I may post tonight! I'm only sorry that I haven't got more single images from our Summer trip (none shown here) where I concentrated more on getting landscape panoramas. I'm so tempted to go to Tourgueille again for a few more days later this year now I've established a few more good walks and I feel I'm bound to see some more species :wink:. Also as we left on Sunday (early morning) I saw quite a few large raptors (Booted Eagles etc), just sitting on the city lamp-posts in Anduze! I guess we were only just at the start of their best visiting period.
Michael
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