Butterflies of Var, Southern France

[John Vergo]

Doing trip report is a good trend Roger looking forward to se more

[Roger Gibbons]

2 July: one of my main objectives was to travel north to Savoie to a site for Asian Fritillary (Euphydryas intermedia) within a few days as I have previously arrived there when they were showing signs of wear, and this meant heading north over the Col de Vars, a region becoming more popular every year with the main (ski) town of Vars Les Claux continually expanding. Just before the Col there is a hairpin bend in the road at about 2000m with some tracks leading off it, my first stop. Evidence of a late season – Marsh Fritillaries (E. aurinia) still flying there and looking fresh. This is such a variable species with several subspecies – these two were flying together, hard to believe they are the same species.

It was actually quite a rich spot with numerous blues, perhaps the most unexpected was Osiris Blue (Cupido osiris), more evidence of a late season.

Other usually-rich spots on this road, not that much higher, were very sparse.

My overnight stop was at Briançon, and next location was a dead-end road leading off the main N94 south of Briançon where I had found a very rich spot two years ago. One effect of the rain and snow was the damage caused by rockfalls and flooding, with quite a few trees destroyed. There was a sign on this road to say the road was flooded, although most of the flooding had clearly subsided. One effect was that the road was now a great puddling site, and even though cars were infrequent, the number of squished butterflies was testament to it not being the smartest place to puddle. How well the passing cars took to a weirdo making hand signals to slow down is another matter. Among the dead were two Poplar Admirals (L. populi) which did not seem right at all. The puddling champions, Black-veined Whites (Aporia crataegi) were out in force.

I went on to a flowery track where I had seen a great diversity of species two years ago but this time, very little. Maybe flooding and rockfalls played a part. This rock had landed (it wasn’t there in 2022) blocking the road and for some reason no-one had thought to remove it.

I drove back slowly and as I passed a roadside damp area, I noticed a large dark shape and pulled off the road very slowly. I have learnt over the years to take large dark shapes very seriously. This turned out to be quite a good decision as the photo below attests.

Pristine and just breathtaking, especially the electric blue hindwing border. I sat and watched for an hour as it puddled flittingly, joined by another which was less fresh but equally welcome. It was a privilege to be allowed to observe them.

3 July: heading toward the Italian border, two stops on the way. The first was a track off a bend at about 1600m where I had seen a diversity of puddling species two years ago, including Meleager’s Blue (Polyommatus daphnis) and Oriental Meadow Brown (Hyponephele lupina). This time – almost nothing, despite perfect conditions. Just this side of the Italian border was a nectaring spot also very diverse previously, with possible/probable Nickerl’s Fritillary (Melitaea aurelia) two years ago. Again, very thin and fritillaries that were more likely Heath (M. athalia) than aurelia. This one aberrant fritillary was a puzzle, the one on the left being Meadow (M. parthenoides).

The quickest way to Savoie is via Italy and the Fréjus tunnel (13km), the alternatives being longer and across high cols such as Galibier, although at 55 euros one-way, the tunnel is definitely not cheap. My satnav does not seem very reliable in Italy (it’s not so good in France), so I checked the map and headed for Torino (Turin) and then Fréjus. I had done this before, so I was largely relying on memory. At an intersection it seemed to run out of signs to Fréjus so I followed Torino. Then I came to a péage (toll) which clearly wasn’t right. I asked an operative if I could make a U-turn, but no, the only option was to go through the péage (7.50 euros), go on to the first exit (15km) come back through the péage (pay again) and head for the tunnel. The chaos in the queues to pay for the tunnel and to actually get into it took 45 minutes. It had seemed like a long day.

4 July: now in Savoie I headed for the high altitude dam, the site for intermedia. However, it being such a late season, would I be too early? The trek up to the dam is steep but not arduous, the main spot being adjacent to a patch of Alpenrose on a slope. I had seen almost nothing on my way up, so was expecting the worst. Wrong! A fresh male was on the ground taking salts right at the start. I had to go into weirdo mode to protect it from being trodden on by randonneurs who, as previously noted, seem to see nothing around them. Over the next 1km of the track, the intermedia count went into double figures, and it was by some way the most common species there. There was quite a variety in markings, too. Here are three, the exceptionally red one (52645) being, I strongly suspect, a female. I’ll study all the images later in the year.

This seemed a fairly normal male.

A male, I think, veering towards red.

This I think a female.

Another feature of this bizarre year is the appearance of the usually-elusive Alpine Grizzled Skipper (Pyrgus andromedae) at several locations, in each case looking very fresh. They can be easily identified from size and the three aligned white marks.

[Padfield]

Hi Roger. I'd say your aberrant Melitaea is well within specs for nevadensis. I've seen very similar individuals. That doesn't necessarily mean it is nevadensis, of course! I learnt long ago not to be dogmatic with this genus! Your second marshie, on the other hand, is quite unlike anything I've seen. Very interesting!

This rock had landed (it wasn’t there in 2022) blocking the road and for some reason no-one had thought to remove it.

I wonder why! I think there'll be some head-scratching in the Service de Voirie about how exactly to get a 40 tonne rock off the road!

It's very interesting to read your impressions of the Alps this year. I will try not to draw conclusions until the season's over, though for some species it is already over, of course, and some had a very rough time.

Well done with the populi. Magnificent insects!

Guy

[petesmith]

Hi Roger.

Large dark shapes are something that always necessitate immediate action in my world also. I have been known to slam brakes on with scant regard to other road users on occasion...

But I have never had the pleasure of capturing such a magnificent image as yours of your populi - what a fantastic creature!! My envy is rather large.

Fabulous!

Pete

[David M]

..Among the dead were two Poplar Admirals (L. populi)...

Heartbreaking, but sadly inevitable, Roger.

Well done with the Asian Frits, a species I've yet to see.

For once, an early August sojourn into high altitude areas of France might be extremely productive.

[Matsukaze]

Rather smaller rocks, from back at the end of March 2024. The workers from the local commune showed up shortly after this photo and asked if we were all right - evidently the rocks had come down the night before. There were green hairstreaks and black-eyed blues further up the track.

[selbypaul]

That Poplar Admiral, Roger! Gorgeous!

[Charles Nicol]

a fabulous read Roger. the Poplar Admiral was amazing ! please do not stop

Charles

[Roger Gibbons]

Thanks for the comments, more to come.

I think if all I had seen in 24 days was that populi, it would still have been worthwhile.

Roger

[Benjamin]

Very much enjoying this Roger - your butterfly knowledge in this part of the Alps must be up there with the very best! Looking forward to reading more…..

[Medard]

So envious Roger, sadly my French adventures have come to an end, many great memories and experiences, amongst them my friendly butterfly enjoying the gastronomic delights of France. I Am sure you will remember it ,
keep them coming ,long may you continue your adventures.
Medard
https://jamesgibbs6929.zenfolio.com

[Roger Gibbons]

5 July: staying in Savoie, another very rich location that produced some 40 species, although the road to get there can only be described as “interesting” (Pete S may concur). A male intermedia turns up here as well, and andromedae which is starting to become an ever-present.

6 July: my plan was to head north across the Col d’Iseran (2760m) stopping at various points on the way, but the weather all day was wet and overcast, so a lost day. I’m not complaining as it is inevitable when traversing the high cols that the weather will be against you sometimes, and I only lost one day on the trip.

7 July: in the region of Bourg St Maurice for a trip to a site that has in the past yielded Mnestra’s Ringlet (Erebia mnestra). A stop on the way at a flowery meadow at 1800m in full sun produced… just one female intermedia. What is going on here? Where are the Erebia ringlets? The track at 2000m produced nothing at all. As Guy has said, we will need to see what happens later in the summer before we can tell whether it is a late season or a non-season.

I have a stop-off on the way down at around 1300m which has produced a good variety of species in the past. Not today, though. But just as I am about to leave, I see a female blue which could be one of several species. A few moments later, it becomes clear that the grassy bank is peppered with Cross Gentian (Gentiana cruciata) which points up that the blue is a Mountain Alcon Blue (Phengaris alcon rebeli) even before getting a good look at it. In typical behaviour, the female alternates between egg-laying on the Gentian, nectaring and resting, affording a very pleasant spectacle. The hindwing looks a little distended as do the spots, but in fact the aspect ratio is correct.

A wider look revealed that there were actually quite a few rebeli here, both males and females.

8 July: my target for this day was Sudeten Ringlet (E. sudetica) around the Col du Glandon, a very localised species occurring in only two areas in France, here for the nominate form, and Cantal for the subspecies lioranus (another name to conjure with). I had only seen it here once in 2009, a couple of subsequent visits being rained off. The weather was good today but not the flight period, and nothing was flying above 1700m.

I have a favoured riverside spot on the lower reaches and numerous species were puddling there, including such species as rebeli. However, one non-puddling fritillary caught my eye. It was quite small and had a rather weak flight. Maybe you can see where I am leading. I am reluctant to believe it is a female Nickerl’s Fritillary (M. aurelia), but it does tick the boxes and I have difficulty believing that it could be any other of the much-more-common contenders, the burden of evidence being heavier for the rare species.

9 and 10 July: a couple of days in one of my favourite spots, a dead-end road in the Ecrins (actually I think most of the roads are dead-end in the Ecrins). It is a riverside puddling spot at about 1100m where one can sit and wait. I have seen 99 species here over the years but the little damp patches have been getting less and less and this year the little rivulet that fed them had dried up. Still plenty of interesting species.

A male Chequered Skipper (Carterocephalus palaemon), given its interest in my shirt.

A pristine male White Admiral (L. camilla).

A male Scotch Argus (E. aethiops).

A female Marbled Fritillary (Brenthis daphne), I think, from the body shape.

11 July: another dead-end road into the Champsaur. These roads have very little traffic and the butterfly numbers seem greater. Maybe there’s a connection. This riverside spot was alive with fritillaries, a group that seemed unaffected by the weather and late season. A nominate form of Lesser Purple Emperor (Apatura ilia) came down to extract salts from something that looked dried up, in company with a couple of Spotted Fritillaries (M. didyma).

Footnote: just seen Medard's post. Sorry to hear your adventures have come to and end, Jim. I suspect I may know where you saw the populi - when we met in the Valgaudemar you asked me if there were interesting spots nearby and I suggested the road above (11 July). I still have the four-leaf clover...
Roger

[Pete Eeles]

Thanks for these insightful posts, Roger. It's amazing how, on the continent, it seems possible to simply go off the beaten track (with a few known sites/areas thrown in) and simply find some very interesting species (with the help of records available online to target rich areas). It (almost) makes me want to get a camper van and just head off into the sunset! Great reports - very readable! You should write a book

Cheers,

- Pete

[Roger Gibbons]

You should write a book

Thanks, Pete, I’ve seen the amount of work that goes into a book, notably your latest masterwork on Rarities. I’m not sure I’d live long enough to complete it.

I had quite a lot of input into this publication:
http://www.naturedugard.org/doc/2022_co ... france.pdf

Here is an image of myself with the authors (and Pieter Kan of FilmingVarWild), taken in September 2019. It got published earlier this year (even allowing for covid).

I have two nieces who run a book publishing company for specialist topics. A conversation is beckoning…

Roger

[David M]

...I have two nieces who run a book publishing company for specialist topics. A conversation is beckoning…

Now that would be something to look forward to!

[petesmith]

5 July: staying in Savoie, another very rich location that produced some 40 species, although the road to get there can only be described as “interesting” (Pete S may concur).

I could summon up a couple of other adjectives for that road, Roger but the end destination is well worth the journey

[Padfield]

Hi Roger. All other things being equal (which, of course, they're not, as aurelia is rather scarce and local) I like your aberrant female for aurelia. The fusion of the two rows of submarginal crescents on the forewing gives it a strange jizz - I've never seen that before - and makes it difficult to judge the pattern here - in particular the markings in and around s.3. In my experience, the flight is the biggest give-away for this species. While nevadensis zooms around and often intersperses short glides, aurelia is flappier and less purposeful. It also looks dark in flight. Your description of the flight adds to my feeling it really is this. But I think you need to go back next year!

I'm guessing you haven't got an underside for her ...

Guy

[Roger Gibbons]

I'm guessing you haven't got an underside for her ...

Yes, just about. Bearing in mind that the colour and contrast of the marginal band might be vital evidence, I managed to get this crouched-below shot.

It's not remotely conclusive but there is a suggestion that the band is at least a slightly darker colour than the adjacent bands (=aurelia), which may be a trick of the light. If it had been clear that there was no colour disparity, then clearly aurelia could be discounted.

The heavier shading around unf lunule s2 bothers me somewhat, but I still feel the upperside says aurelia more than athalia (or its synonyms).

Roger

[Benjamin]

Hi Roger -

For what it’s worth (not much) I’d go athalia here. I wasn’t sure with the topside only but the underside features you mention that make you uneasy about your suggested ID move me strongly in the athalia direction. But clearly you are aware of all this so your judgement, having seen far more aurelia in this region than I have, carries a lot more weight! And of course - you saw it fly! Either way it’s a fascinating read and I’m very much enjoying your insights.

[Padfield]

On the basis of the pictures alone, I'm now inclined towards nevadensis/athalia too. The slight darkening of the marginal band is a constant feature in my experience (occasionally present in athalia/nevadensis but never absent in aurelia). The heavy branding in ss.2-3 also counts against aurelia. Because the upperside is aberrant, this feature is not visible there.

Nevertheless - go back!

Guy