2 July: one of my main objectives was to travel north to Savoie to a site for Asian Fritillary (
Euphydryas intermedia) within a few days as I have previously arrived there when they were showing signs of wear, and this meant heading north over the Col de Vars, a region becoming more popular every year with the main (ski) town of Vars Les Claux continually expanding. Just before the Col there is a hairpin bend in the road at about 2000m with some tracks leading off it, my first stop. Evidence of a late season – Marsh Fritillaries (
E. aurinia) still flying there and looking fresh. This is such a variable species with several subspecies – these two were flying together, hard to believe they are the same species.
It was actually quite a rich spot with numerous blues, perhaps the most unexpected was Osiris Blue (
Cupido osiris), more evidence of a late season.
Other usually-rich spots on this road, not that much higher, were very sparse.
My overnight stop was at Briançon, and next location was a dead-end road leading off the main N94 south of Briançon where I had found a very rich spot two years ago. One effect of the rain and snow was the damage caused by rockfalls and flooding, with quite a few trees destroyed. There was a sign on this road to say the road was flooded, although most of the flooding had clearly subsided. One effect was that the road was now a great puddling site, and even though cars were infrequent, the number of squished butterflies was testament to it not being the smartest place to puddle. How well the passing cars took to a weirdo making hand signals to slow down is another matter. Among the dead were two Poplar Admirals (
L. populi) which did not seem right at all. The puddling champions, Black-veined Whites (
Aporia crataegi) were out in force.
I went on to a flowery track where I had seen a great diversity of species two years ago but this time, very little. Maybe flooding and rockfalls played a part. This rock had landed (it wasn’t there in 2022) blocking the road and for some reason no-one had thought to remove it.
I drove back slowly and as I passed a roadside damp area, I noticed a large dark shape and pulled off the road very slowly. I have learnt over the years to take large dark shapes very seriously. This turned out to be quite a good decision as the photo below attests.
Pristine and just breathtaking, especially the electric blue hindwing border. I sat and watched for an hour as it puddled flittingly, joined by another which was less fresh but equally welcome. It was a privilege to be allowed to observe them.
3 July: heading toward the Italian border, two stops on the way. The first was a track off a bend at about 1600m where I had seen a diversity of puddling species two years ago, including Meleager’s Blue (
Polyommatus daphnis) and Oriental Meadow Brown (
Hyponephele lupina). This time – almost nothing, despite perfect conditions. Just this side of the Italian border was a nectaring spot also very diverse previously, with possible/probable Nickerl’s Fritillary (
Melitaea aurelia) two years ago. Again, very thin and fritillaries that were more likely Heath (M.
athalia) than
aurelia. This one aberrant fritillary was a puzzle, the one on the left being Meadow (
M. parthenoides).
The quickest way to Savoie is via Italy and the Fréjus tunnel (13km), the alternatives being longer and across high cols such as Galibier, although at 55 euros one-way, the tunnel is definitely not cheap. My satnav does not seem very reliable in Italy (it’s not so good in France), so I checked the map and headed for Torino (Turin) and then Fréjus. I had done this before, so I was largely relying on memory. At an intersection it seemed to run out of signs to Fréjus so I followed Torino. Then I came to a péage (toll) which clearly wasn’t right. I asked an operative if I could make a U-turn, but no, the only option was to go through the péage (7.50 euros), go on to the first exit (15km) come back through the péage (pay again) and head for the tunnel. The chaos in the queues to pay for the tunnel and to actually get into it took 45 minutes. It had seemed like a long day.
4 July: now in Savoie I headed for the high altitude dam, the site for
intermedia. However, it being such a late season, would I be too early? The trek up to the dam is steep but not arduous, the main spot being adjacent to a patch of Alpenrose on a slope. I had seen almost nothing on my way up, so was expecting the worst. Wrong! A fresh male was on the ground taking salts right at the start. I had to go into weirdo mode to protect it from being trodden on by randonneurs who, as previously noted, seem to see nothing around them. Over the next 1km of the track, the
intermedia count went into double figures, and it was by some way the most common species there. There was quite a variety in markings, too. Here are three, the exceptionally red one (52645) being, I strongly suspect, a female. I’ll study all the images later in the year.
This seemed a fairly normal male.
A male, I think, veering towards red.
This I think a female.
Another feature of this bizarre year is the appearance of the usually-elusive Alpine Grizzled Skipper (
Pyrgus andromedae) at several locations, in each case looking very fresh. They can be easily identified from size and the three aligned white marks.