North-West Greece

Discussion forum for any overseas items (given that this is a "UK" butterflies forum!).
DaveF
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North-West Greece

Post by DaveF »

A quick heads-up that I'm currently in the Prespa Lakes area of North-West Greece, exploring the region for its beautiful butterflies. Once I'm back home I'll do a proper write-up of the trip - along the lines of my report for my trip to Southern Greece in July 2012 - , but I've started to post images on my flickr page. To whet your appetites, I've been here for 4 days and have seen 69 species already, including (prob. my favourites so far) Balkan Copper and Blue-spot Hairstreak. Though somewhat off the beaten track (2hrs30 by car from Thessaloniki), the region is greatly recommended for its species, and I'll also be sending in records to Butterfly Conservation EIG.
All best,
Dave
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BalkanCopperPM1200.jpg
DaveF
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Re: North-West Greece

Post by DaveF »

With apologies for the delay - much sorting of materials and photos and too much work - but hopefully over the next couple of weeks I'd be able to start posting a detailed report.
All best,
Dave
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petesmith
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Re: North-West Greece

Post by petesmith »

Looking forward to hearing the results of your travels Dave!
DaveF
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Re: North-West Greece

Post by DaveF »

North-West Greece Butterflies, 26th June to 6th July 2015

With many apologies for the delay in getting this set up, allow me to present the trip report for my recent visit to the North West Greece in search of butterflies. As previously with my postings relating to my 2012 trip (here), it will begin with an overview of the trip and some logistical information, and then continue with day-by-day accounts, photos, and lists, concluding with some final checklists, a brief summary, and a photos round-up.

Overview
Having visited Greece many times and become fascinated by its flora and fauna, I first made a dedicated butterflies trip to Greece in July 2012, visiting the Mt. Chelmos area of the Peloponnese. This was followed by a trip to Samos in April 2013 for Orchids and Butterflies, adding to my Greece list with some choice species such as Green-underside Blue, False Apollo, and Eastern Festoon. While these trips furnished me with an enviable total of about 80 or so species, I wanted more, and wanted to do more exploring. Having done endless amounts of research with maps and locations, I ended up deciding to visit the Prespa Lakes region north of Kastoria and west of Florina, near the borders with Albania and FYROM and about 3 hours’ drive from Thessaloniki airport. This was off the beaten track enough, and far enough north, to ensure a range of species new to me; also, visiting at about the same time of year as in 2012, it would be interesting to see how much a factor a change of latitude would have on the species range.
I stayed in the village of Agios Germanos, on the western edge of Mt. Varnous/Peristeri, overlooking the large lakes. If you are at all birdy and like Herons and Pelicans, this is the place for you!
Basing myself here allowed me to visit a range of habitats at different altitudes; these ranged from roadside meadows and wooded glades at about 800m above sea-level to alpine meadows and ski-resorts at 1600m and above. The majority of my excursions were limited to around 30mins or so away from Agios Germanos by car, though I did also venture further afield on 3 occasions, with one visit to Mt. Voras/Kaimaktsalan to the north-east, and two visits to the Oxia ski-centre area on Mt Vitsi to the south.
On my way back to Thessaloniki I also made a visit to the amazing Hellenistic Greek tomb complex at Vergina: an absolutely stunning world-class museum in the middle of nowhere! An absolute must for anyone in northern Greece even remotely interested in the ancient history of the country. Website link here (http://www.aigai.gr/en).

My visit coincided (once again!) with the Greek economic crisis, but, with the exception of a sighting of a queue at an ATM in Kastoria attended by police, I saw no signs whatever of the difficulties and experienced no problems whatever. Greek hospitality is famous and fabulous; the region seems to receive only a handful of foreign tourists (I encountered maybe a couple during my time and only saw one other hire care), so people may be curious, or indifferent to you!


Logistics

Base: Agios Germanos Traditional Hotel: centre of village with parking outside (pre-paid reservation on Booking.com).
Car-hire: Suzuki Vitara: free upgrade from pre-booked Suzuki Jimny (Hertz, Thessaloniki airport). A hassle-free decent and roomy 4x4. As a solo-traveller, and having experienced Greek roads before, I actually wanted the Jimny (narrower and better ground clearance), but the Vitara was bigger and didn’t actually restrict me. It could have easily accommodated 3 adults and a load of luggage.

Pre-trip research
I made extensive use of Google Earth in combination with species lists and maps in Lazaros Pamperis’ Butterflies of Greece. I also found using Guy Padfield’s iPhone app very useful for additional species photographs. If you’re serious about Greek butterflies, I reckon Pamperis’ book is a must.

Maps and GPS
I found it essential to have good accurate maps for the region, along with a GPS for reviewing and recording altitudes as well as locations. The excellent Anavasi range of Greek maps are the local equivalent to our OS-maps, and are available online from Amazon or from Stanfords; I don’t recall seeing any opportunities to buy these once I had arrived. I used the Anavasi maps (available now as GPS electronic-only and hard copy: buy both!), in combination with the regional maps for Macedonia in the Terrain series. These were used in conjunction with my trusty Garmin 62ST with European mapping.
I’m not going to divulge precise GPS coordinates for my locations here, but they’re not going to be too tricky to figure out if you’re interested!

Other Equipment (updated from my 2012 report)
Photography equipment as wanted; close-focusing binoculars; lightweight clothes with lots of pockets; lots of lightweight walking socks (I strongly recommend Bridgedale Ultralights); a good and study pair of high-lacing walking boots with good ankle support: I suppose you could get by with approach-style outdoor shoes, but you’d soon get fed up with all the pointy grass seeds in your socks, not to mention the scratches by thistles and other sharp-and pointy calf-high vegetation. Clothing-wise, I tend to use Paramo shirts and shorts – good technical materials and excellent pockets.
Good quality insect repellent is also an important requirement. For southern Greece, I didn’t really encounter any problems other than negotiating beehives and sheepdogs; here there were very few beehives and few sheepdogs, but masses of horseflies… There are also lots of roadsigns warning of wolves and bears, but thankfully I had no encounters with either.

Books: Pamperis, as mentioned, plus Tolman/Lewington & Lafranchis: good to get as many different views and opinions! Also a wildflower guide and bird guide is useful.

Roads and Driving
You could just about get away with a normal car, but there were times when I felt a 4x4 was needed. The roads were generally in good condition, but with one or two exceptions listed below. A 4x4 would certainly be needed if you wanted to attempt the drive up Mt. Peristeri past the windfarm from Vigla Ski Centre, but I wouldn’t recommend it at all: far too hair-raising… I chose my locations carefully to maximize the possibility of decent tarmacked road surfaces. The region gets a lot of snow/rainfall in winter, and road-repairs are slow and haphazard. Massive potholes can catch you off guard. The only roads I ventured onto that were not tarmacked were the coastal track linking the Pyli-Vrontero road to the lakeside village of Psarades, the track down to the Latsista inlet on Mikri Prespa from Oxia, and the track up to the windfarm opposite the Vigla Ski Centre above Pisoderi. Only the latter was non-4x4 friendly, but helpfully the best for butterflies. Further details later.

The quickest and simplest route from Thessaloniki takes the main motorway south west, before heading north up to Kastoria. It is very fast, quiet, and smooth, and has some tolls. The road up from Kastoria is a standard A-road following the course of the Ladopotamos river.

Dangers and Irritations:
Not too many, in fact. Horseflies were often a nightmare, though! No problems with solo travel, but you have to understand that in a remote area like this you are relying on your car.

Things to Enjoy (other than the wildlife):
• Weather!
I had a day-and a half washed out by rain, but other than that the weather was very pleasant, mostly in the 20s to 30s range (but bad weather and thunderstorms should also be expected).
• Pleasant quiet landscapes; interesting lakeside birds; special unspoiled habitats that you have entirely to yourself.
Last edited by DaveF on Mon Sep 14, 2015 7:54 pm, edited 3 times in total.
DaveF
Posts: 146
Joined: Wed Oct 05, 2011 1:01 pm

Re: North-West Greece

Post by DaveF »

Day-by-day diary, with day-lists and photos (butterfly lifers in bold/capitals)

Day 1, 26th June

I flew out of Heathrow in the early morning to arrive in Thessaloniki around lunchtime. I picked up my car, having paid extra for a full tank of fuel and Super Collision Damage Waiver. After a pretty long but uneventful drive I stopped at Kastoria by the lake (630m altitude) there for a snack and a stretch of the legs. Here were my first butterfly sightings of the trip: Holly Blue, Large White.

I arrived at Agios Germanos to check in to my hotel shortly after 4pm. Later on I took a drive around the area to check out the location of the local bakery and supermarkets (there’s one reasonable one, ‘Kathy’s’, by one of the petrol stations along the main road at Plati); good bakery in Laimos.
More butterflies in Laimos: Large White, Small Skipper, Black-veined White (generally common on the trip), Meadow Brown.

1. Holly Blue
2. Large White
3. Small Skipper
4. Black-veined White
5. Meadow Brown

Notable birds:
Bee-eaters seen en route along side of motorway. Great Crested Grebe and Great White Pelican on lake at Kastoria. Great White Egret, White Stork, Pygmy Cormorant, Dalmatian Pelican, Red-backed Shrike, Great Reed Warbler seen or heard by Prespa Lake along causeway. Black Redstart in Agios Germanos, along with nesting Red-rumped Swallows.
Last edited by DaveF on Mon Sep 14, 2015 7:52 pm, edited 1 time in total.
DaveF
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Re: North-West Greece

Post by DaveF »

Day 2, 27th June

After breakfast I headed up towards Vigla ski centre on Peristeri past Pisoderi. En route I stopped at the Perivoli viewing area, which provides a nice view down over the lakes in the distance. This was an area I had scouted out on Google Earth.

Perivoli Stop, 1128m, 09.25–about 10am
Lots of brambles and scub here at the roadside, holding a nice range of species:

Spotted Fritillary, Small Skipper, Common Blue, Marbled Fritillary, Purple-shot Copper, Marbled White, Large Skipper, Great Banded Grayling, Black-veined White, Amanda’s Blue, Balkan Marbled White.

Birds here included Woodlark, plus audible Hoopoe and Golden Oriole.

Vigla Ski Centre, 1600m 11-11.20am – 10C, windy and cloudy
A walk to about half-way up the ski slope through the winding track in the trees. A bit disappointing, since ground too heavily disturbed to support much biodiversity. But did pick up the following here:

Mazarine Blue, Small Copper, Dingy Skipper, Queen of Spain Fritillary

After this, I up the track from the ski centre opposite on the north side of the road, past the small caravan park, 5 minutes drive up towards the windturbines – another location I had scouted out in advance on Google Earth. This turned out to be a lush meadow area with lots of nettles and mulleins plus a variety of wild flowers; I revisited this place quite a bit in the next days.

Peristeri Meadow, 1675m, 11.30-12.30 cool and overcast
Here I saw the following delights:
Clouded Apollo (7), Marsh Fritillary (3), Knapweed Fritillary

Birds here included Chiffchaff and a party of Yellowhammers (a new one for Greece for me).

After this I headed back down the mountain and stopped for lunch at another meadow at a hairpin bend with a parking area, between the ski centre and Pisoderi. This is a superb vibrant meadow area above the road, surrounded by beech forest, with a stream going through it. The layby itself was also good. In days ahead the area was a little trampled by sheep, so I was always subsequently wary in case of sheepdog encounters, but luckily missed any.

Pisoderi Meadow, 1472m (layby at 1440m), 12.30–2pm
Here I saw the following:
Woodland Ringlet, Balkan Copper (2: one of the highlights of my trip), Purple-shot Copper (2), Mazarine Blue, Knapweed Fritillary, Queen of Spain Fritillary, Pearl-bordered Fritillary, Glanville Fritillary, Yellow-banded Skipper, Painted Lady, Common Blue (lots), Comma, Geranium Argus, Clouded Yellow

Also Hummingbird Hawkmoth species and a family of Grey Wagtails

After these delights, back down to explore the lakeside altitudes:

Lakeside Stop past Agios Achilleios 883m, 2.45pm
Small Blue, Olive Skipper

I then drove past Pyli to explore the roadside along the road to Vrontero.

Roadside stop past Pyli 975m, 3-3.50pm
A nice sunny roadside meadow with brambles and wild flowers including wild basil, verging onto oak woodland, between Pyli and the track off the right to Psarades.

Large Skipper (numerous), Small Skipper (likewise), Marbled White, Black-veined White (2+), Pearly Heath, Dark Green Fritillary, High Brown Fritilary f. cleodoxa, Silver-washed Fritillary (2+), Ilex Hairstreak (3+), Meadow Brown, Knapweed Fritilary (2+), Twin-spot Fritillary (2+), Lesser-spotted Fritillary (2+), Amanda’s Blue, Swallowtail, Adonis Blue, Marbled Fritillary

After this I took the dirt track to Psarades – 4x4 only, rutted and very rocky in places; not hugely recommended

I ended up not stopping along here, but did see a Large Tortoiseshell, 3 Hoopoes, and a Lesser Kestrel

Day ended warm and sunny in the mid-20s. Ravens were seen above Agios Germanos.

Daylist total: 39 species (11 lifers), highlights definitely Balkan Copper, Clouded Apollos, the range of Fritillary species, Pearly Heath and Yellow-banded Skipper.


Trip list additions:
6. SPOTTED FRITILLARY
7. Common Blue
8. MARBLED FRITILLARY
9. Purple-shot Copper
10. Marbled White
11. Large Skipper
12. Great Banded Grayling
13. Amanda’s Blue
14. Clouded Apollo
15. Marsh Fritillary
16. KNAPWEED FRITILLARY
17. WOODLAND RINGLET
18. BALKAN COPPER
19. Queen of Spain Fritllary
20. Pearl-bordered Fritillary
21. Glanville Fritillary
22. YELLOW-BANDED SKIPPER
23. Painted Lady
24. Comma
25. GERANIUM ARGUS
26. Clouded Yellow
27. PEARLY HEATH
28. Dark Green Fritillary
29. High Brown Fritillary f. cleodoxa
30. Silver-washed Fritillary
31. Ilex Hairstreak
32. TWIN-SPOT HAIRSTREAK
33. LESSER SPOTTED FRITILLARY
34. Swallowtail
35. Adonis Blue
36. Large Tortoiseshell
37. Balkan Marbled White
38. MAZARINE BLUE
39. Small Blue
40. Olive Skipper
41. Small Copper
42. Dingy Skipper
Attachments
CloudedApolloPM1200.jpg
TwinSpotFritillaryPT1200.jpg
MarshFritillaryPM1200.jpg
GeraniumArgusPD1200.jpg
Amanda'sBluePV1200.jpg
BalkanCopperPMnewlargercanvas1024.jpg
DaveF
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Re: North-West Greece

Post by DaveF »

Day 3, Sunday 28th June
Trip down to Oxia Ski Centre, Mt. Vitsi.
I set out at 8.45 with the aim of arriving in the area at about 10am. Mt Vitsi is a promising mountain area just north of Kastoria, with beech forest opening out onto open pastureland at the top. I arrived on schedule, though the topmost area of the mountain is off limits since there is an army base (radar?) on the summit, complete with the usual ‘no photography’ signs. A little annoying, but still plenty on offer a little lower down in the glades near the ski centre itself.
A note on the roads here. The road across the top of the mountain by the army base was closed off, apparently because of poor road conditions on the other side of the mountain. The approach road from the Prespa area west of Vissinia was very poor indeed – much of the surface had eroded away in large stretches. On my return I went back a different way, via Kastoria, which didn’t seem too much longer. Weather was cloudy and rather cold.
En route I saw Black-veined Whites

Oxia Ski Centre meadows, Mt Vitsi 1583m, 10.25-12pm breezy, clouds, 14C+
Species seen here: Clouded Apollo (2+), Clouded Yellow, Common Blue, Painted Lady, Large Blue (4), Glanville Fritillary, Heath Fritillary, Small Copper, Russian Heath (2), Mazarine Blue (3+), Dingy Skipper (2+), Knapweed Fritillary (2+), Woodland Ringlet, Small Heath (2), Meadow Brown, Queen of Spain Fritillary (2), Black-veined White

Rain came on at 12pm, lasting until 1pm. I decided to move on, heading back to Prespa to explore new places in the afternoon. A pleasant lakeside lunch at a Psarades Taverna from 1.30, watching Silver-washed Fritillaries in the flowering trees outside.

Things warmed up after lunch, so I stopped at the ancient Juniper forest at Agios Georgios chapel above Psarades for a bit of an explore.

Agios Georgios 1058m, 2.30-3pm
Here I saw: Painted Lady, Swallowtail, Lattice Brown (2), Large Skipper, Small Skipper, Balkan Marbled White, Black-veined White, Eastern Baton Blue (2), Orbed Red-underwing Skipper, Oberthür’s Grillzed Skipper

Praying Mantis

Afterwards, a stop at a very promising gulley/old quarry/roadside scrub area just outside Pyli on the road up to Vrontero.

Roadside past Pyli 897m, 3.15-4.30
Painted Lady, Silver-studded Blue (3), Large Skipper, Clouded Yellow, Adonis Blue, Meadow Brown, Essex Skipper, Wood White, Ilex Hairstreak (3), Orbed Red-underwing Skipper, Silver-washed Fritillary (4), Dark Green Fritillary (2), Blue-spot Hairstreak (2), Small Blue, Marbled White, Niobe Fritillary (mating pair), Green-veined White (2), Meleager’s Blue (3), Lulworth Skipper (1), Gatekeeper (1)

A really amazing place this, about 20 meters of rough meadow/grass by the road, with brambles and wild clematis, below a very small disused quarry, overlooking the fields of beans around Mikri Prespa Lake and the village of Pyli. One I revisited…!


Daylist total: 41 species (5 lifers), highlight definitely Blue-spot Hairstreak, another target for the trip.

Notable Birds: Alpine Swifts, Lesser Grey Shrike

Trip list additions:
43. Lattice Brown
44. Large Blue
45. HEATH FRITILLARY
46. RUSSIAN HEATH
47. Small Heath
48. EASTERN BATON BLUE
49. Silver-studded Blue
50. Essex Skipper
51. Wood White
52. Orbed Red-underwing Skipper
53. BLUE-SPOT HAIRSTREAK
54. Niobe Fritillary
55. Green-veined White
56. Meleager’s Blue
57. LULWORTH SKIPPER
58. Oberthür’s Grizzled Skipper
59. Gatekeeper
Attachments
BlueSpotHairstreakPY11200.jpg
LulworthSkipperPY1200.jpg
EBBinHabitatPsaradesChapel1200.jpg
MantisPortraitPsaradesChapel1200.jpg
RussianHeathPD1200.jpg
LargeBlueOX1200.jpg
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David M
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Re: North-West Greece

Post by David M »

Some fascinating species on that list, Dave. I look forward to the next instalment.
DaveF
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Re: North-West Greece

Post by DaveF »

Day 4, 29th June

Today I stayed relatively local to do more exploring. After overnight rain, the weather was sunny with clouds.
My first stop was at a lower altitude, driving down the Kastoria turn and stopping along the Ladopotamos valley a little north of Korestia.

Korestia track, 816m, 10am for about 20 minutes.
Here I found: Black-veined White (2), Painted Lady, Mallow Skipper, Small Skipper, Large Skipper, Meadow Brown, Clouded Yellow, Marbled Fritillary, Marbled White, and Great Banded Grayling

After this, I headed back north, and stopped at the turn-off left for the Prespa Lakes along the main Kastoria-Florina road. Here there is a bridge and a stream that joins the river, along with a variety of mature waterside trees and other vegetation.

Prespa Junction, 962m, 10.30-11.00
Here I found: Great Banded Grayling, Small Skipper, Large Skipper, Clouded Yellow, Brown Argus, Meadow Brown, Lesser Purple Emperor f. clytie, Holly Blue, Escher’s Blue, Balkan Marbled White (2+), Queen of Spain Fritillary

Lesser Purple Emperor was stunning and highly charismatic. It even posed for me nicely! Amazing light magenta top sheen in flight, rather different than the UK’s native PE.

This was also a good spot for Wall Lizards. Nightingale was heard here, and a Booted Eagle soared past.

After this stoke of luck, I headed back up to the meadow area near Pisoderi for another wander through the meadow there.

Pisoderi Meadow 1440m plus, 11.25-11.45
Here I found: Common Blue, Small Copper, Green Hairstreak (very worn), Knapweed Fritillary, Black-veined White, Woodland Ringlet

The visit was then curtailed by heavily overcast conditions and the threat of rain on the mountain. I decided to head down to lower levels before returning for a picnic lunch if the weather recovered (it did).

Next I returned to the further stop past Pyli on the road to Vrontero, by which time it was warm and sunny, and in fact rather hot!

Roadside stop past Pyli 975m, 12.15-1.20pm
On this visit I picked up: Small Skipper, Orbed Red-underwing Skipper, Common Blue, Great Banded Grayling, Meadow Brown, Ilex Hairstreak, Twin-spot Fritillary, Black-veined White, Berger’s Clouded Yellow, Marbled Fritillary, Turqoise Blue, Large Skipper, Marbled White, Silver-washed Fritillary, Pearly Heath, Siver-studded Blue, Blue Argus, Large Tortoiseshell, Knapweed Fritillary, Lesser Spotted Fritillary

Birdwise, Turtle Dove and Hoopoe creating pleasant sounds from the trees

I then headed back up to the Pisoderi meadow, passing various roadside wild Tortoises

Pisoderi Meadow 1440m plus, 2.20-3pm
Woodland Ringlet, Common Blue, Black-veined White, Niobe Fritillary f. eris, Russian Heath, Red Admiral, Queen of Spain Fritillary, Pearl-bordered Fritillary, Purple-shot Copper, Balkan Copper, Small Heath, Glanville Fritillary, Knapweed Fritillary, Nickerl’s Fritillary (rather worn)

I then headed further up the mountain, in the continuing fine weather, back up to the meadow up the track beneath the windfarm

Peristeri Meadow 1670m, 3.15-4pm
Here there were the following goodies: Balkan Copper (at least 4, including 1 female), Purple-shot Copper, Clouded Apollo (4+), Marsh Fritillary (3+), Comma, Woodland Ringlet, Brown Argus, Lesser Spotted Fritillary, Peacock, Painted Lady, Common Blue

Light rain came on just before 4, so I headed back to Agios Germanos, arriving back at the hotel about 30mins later.

Daylist Total: 44 (4 lifers), highlights being the Coppers and Fritillaries up in the mountain meadows including Nickerl’s Fritillary, finding Turquoise Blue and Blue Argus, and of course the Lesser Purple Emperor

Triplist additions:
60. Mallow Skipper
61. Brown Argus
62. LESSER PURPLE EMPEROR
63. Escher’s Blue
64. Green Hairstreak
65. Turquoise Blue
66. Red Admiral
67. NICKERL’S FRITILLARY
68. Peacock
69. BERGER’S CLOUDED YELLOW
70. BLUE ARGUS
Attachments
Nickerl'sFritillaryPD1200.jpg
Berger'sCloudedYellowfPM1200.jpg
WoodlandRingletPD1200.jpg
LPEmperorPJ11200.jpg
LesserPurpleEmperorPJ1200.jpg
LPE.jpg
BlueArgusfPT1200.jpg
PurpleShotCopperPD1200.jpg
DaveF
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Re: North-West Greece

Post by DaveF »

Interlude:

A map (grab from Google Earth, showing Anavasi GPS maps and location pins), and some location images.
Worth also noting that streetview on Google Earth often comes up trumps for locations.
Attachments
NorthernGreeceButterfliesGrab.tiff
PrespaViewPerivoli.jpg
OxiaSkiCentre.JPG
AgiosGeorgiosJunipers.JPG
PisoderiMeadow1440m+.tiff
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petesmith
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Re: North-West Greece

Post by petesmith »

Great stuff Dave! Can't wait to hear what else you found during your trip.
DaveF
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Joined: Wed Oct 05, 2011 1:01 pm

Re: North-West Greece

Post by DaveF »

petesmith wrote:Great stuff Dave! Can't wait to hear what else you found during your trip.
Thanks for that. Next update...
DaveF
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Joined: Wed Oct 05, 2011 1:01 pm

Re: North-West Greece

Post by DaveF »

Day 5, 30th June
The day’s plan was to visit the Latsista inlet from Oxya and revisit the first meadow/quarry area at Pyli. The weather, though, was overcast, and rain was forecast.

I took the 4x4 up the track from Oxya through various meadows and woodland down to Latsista by Mikri Prespa. This was a bit of a trial in places, especially the last hundred metres or so down to the lakeside area – steep and heavily rutted. To be honest, this area was a bit of a disappointment: the meadow area by the inlet had been heavily grazed by cattle and sheep, so there was little to offer in the main grassy areas. I did, though, find a few things, and the birds along the way were rather good.

Latsista Meadow 846m, 10-11am, 17C overcast
Small Heath, Small Skipper, Common Blue, Clouded Yellow, Ilex Hairstreak (2), Holly Blue, Eastern Wood White (2+), Large White, Great Banded Grayling

Birds here: Golden Oriole, Red-backed Shrike, Turtle Dove, Squacco Heron, Hoopoe

Along the track on the way back up I stopped to have another look around, at 918m:
Large Tortoiseshell, Silver-washed Fritillary, Great Banded Grayling, Painted Lady, Marbled White, Meadow Brown, Lattice Brown

I then headed to Pyli and its super little meadow area. Sadly the visit was curtailed by heavy rain from late morning onwards, that lasted for the rest of the day. After lunch back at the hotel, I went out for a drive to check part of the route north east past Florina in advance of the daytrip to Kaimaktsalan. Other than some roadworks, no problems.

Not a great day, but still some good species seen: 14 in total (1 lifer)

Triplist additions:
71. EASTERN WOOD WHITE
Attachments
EasternWoodWhiteLatsista1200.jpg
LatticeBrownLatsistaTrack1200.jpg
RedBackedShrike1200.jpg
Pyli897m.JPG
DaveF
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Re: North-West Greece

Post by DaveF »

Day 6, 1st July
With rain again forecast from mid-afternoon, I decided to stay local and get in as much as I could before the weather turned (it didn’t, so I was in luck). I revisited the Pyli-Vrodero road, making some new stops.

The weather started out overcast and damp. After a very brief visit to the second stop past Pyli, where I saw only Black-veined White, Meadow Brown, and Lattice Brown, I continued on along road to Vrontero, stopping first at Pixos chapel, until about 10.30. No butterflies seen here, but I stopped to scout the grass with my tripod and took shots of a nice yellow Libelloides. Birds along this road were numerous and interesting too: plenty of Red-backed Shrikes, plus Golden Oriole, Alpine Swift, Sombre Tit, Linnet, Woodlark, Bee-eaters, and Stonechat. Back on the road and up to Vrodero, and a couple of Little Owls in the field on the right on entering the village.

After this I headed back to Pyli, with weather now muggy and still overcast, 22C. I made an extensive stop at the quarry/meadow area, taking time with my tripod to get some proper butterfly shots rather than handheld snaps.

Roadside at Pyli 897m, 11am–2pm
Here there were: Marbled White (100s), Meleager’s Blue (4 inc. 2 females), numerous Silver-studded Blues (both genders), Small Skipper (3+), Common Blue (2+), Olive Skipper, Clouded Yellow, Wood White (2), Meadow Brown, Knapweed Fritillary (2), Escher’s Blue, Lesser Spotted Fritillary, Small Blue (2), High Brown Fritillary f. cleodoxa, Nettle Tree (only one of trip, sadly spooked so no photo), Essex Skipper, Amanda’s Blue, Great Banded Grayling, Cardinal (also only one of trip).

After this, I headed round the lake to Agios Georgios (the hillside Juniper forest)

Agios Georgios 1058m, 2.10-4pm 20C and sunny by now
Here I had a good wander through the trees and meadows and picked up the following:
Large Skipper (2+), Lattice Brown (4+), Blue-spot Hairstreak, Common Blue, Small Blue (3+), Woodland Grayling, Silver-washed Fritillary, Mountain Small White (2+), Black-veined White, Small White, Green-veined White (2), Painted Lady, Eastern Baton Blue, Olive Skipper, Balkan Marbled White, Mallow Skipper

After this, I returned to the Vrontero road, making a couple of extra stops, at 990m and 1100m altitude. No new butterflies, but I did pick up more birds such as Corn Bunting, Yellowhammer, Cirl Bunting, Woodlark, and Turtle Dove.

Daylist Total: 32 (2 lifers)

Triplist additions:
72. NETTLE TREE
73. Cardinal
74. Mountain Small White
75. Small White
76. WOODLAND GRAYLING
Attachments
WoodlandGraylingAG1200.jpg
WoodlandGrayling1AG1200.jpg
CardinalPY1200.jpg
MSWhiteAG1200.jpg
LibelloidesVroderoRd1200.jpg
OliveSkipperPY1200new.jpg
LesserSpottedFritillaryPY1200.jpg
Meleager'sBlue(fem.)PY1024NEWFILMIC.jpg
Sylvie_h
Posts: 276
Joined: Fri Nov 16, 2007 2:05 pm
Location: West Glam

Re: North-West Greece

Post by Sylvie_h »

Great report Dave,
I particularly like your lattice brown and Melaeger's blue ! I also enjoy reading your bird reports, North West Greece is an excellent area for wildlife. Some nice species that you've found there so far.
Any dragonflies?
Sylvie
DaveF
Posts: 146
Joined: Wed Oct 05, 2011 1:01 pm

Re: North-West Greece

Post by DaveF »

Sylvie_h wrote:Great report Dave,
I particularly like your lattice brown and Melaeger's blue ! I also enjoy reading your bird reports, North West Greece is an excellent area for wildlife. Some nice species that you've found there so far.
Any dragonflies?
Sylvie
Many thanks for that! Dragonflies - yes, but I'm far from an expert and didn't stop for very many shots. Here is one I found, though, and which someone helpfully IDed for me as a Small Pincertail. This was at Agios Giorgios.
Attachments
DragonflyforIDAG1200.jpg
DaveF
Posts: 146
Joined: Wed Oct 05, 2011 1:01 pm

Re: North-West Greece

Post by DaveF »

Day 7, 2nd July
Today I took another trip further afield, to explore the higher altitudes of Mt. Kaimaktsalan, about 2 hours north-east of Florina, with a ski centre at the top, and treeline at just above 1800m. This was a location that I might have returned to, but in fact I didn’t – the higher altitudes were a little disappointing, with signs of heavy grazing by cattle and a resultant lack of decent large meadow areas. I did find one or two good spots along the roads here, but it was by no means as good as I had hoped. It didn’t much matter, since I returned to the much more promising Oxia ski centre area on Mt. Vitsi on day 8. The drive to Lake Veghoritida and the foothills of the mountain was generally smooth and quiet except for the last section of road from Kelli down to the lake, which was very badly potholed in places: a 4x4 was not required, but caution certainly was.

My first stop on the road up to the ski centre held a commanding vista overlooking the lake; weather-wise, it was warm and sunny, with temperatures in the mid-teens at altitude.

Kaimaktsalan roadside stop 1, 1641m 10.30-11am
Common Blue (2), Black-veined White, Silver-washed Fritillary, Heath Fritillary (3), Queen of Spain Fritillary, Clouded Yellow

I then made my way up to the top, stopping at the treeline at 1810m for a few minutes, rather disappointed(!), seeing only a Painted Lady and Pearl-bordered Fritillary.

I then headed further east round and down from the Ski Centre on the eastern side of the mountain, dropping altitude in search of better meadow areas. Another couple of stops at 1758m and 1590m produced nothing new; a stop at 1325m lower down was a bit more promising: in a roadside meadow here I had Painted Lady, Common Blue, Cardinal, Spotted Fritillary, Olive Skipper, Queen of Spain Fritillary, Large White, and Clouded Yellow, but again no new species for the trip.

After this, I decided to head back to Mt. Peristeri for the afternoon where I had found things rather more biodiverse.

I made one final stop on the lower western side of the mountain on the way back at 1135m, which was a bit more like it:

Kaimaktsalan Stop 1134m, 12.50-1.10
Brown Argus, Clouded Yellow, Idas Blue, Common Blue, Purple-shot Copper, Marbled White (2), Large Skipper, Painted Lady, Green-veined White (2), Wood White, Orange Tip

Once I had made it back to Peristeri, I headed up the windfarm track opposite the ski centre for lunch and further exploring there. Butterflies had increased in numbers and it made for a really impressive place.

Peristeri Meadow 1670m, 2.20-4pm
Peacock (2), Queen of Spain Fritillary (4+), Great Banded Grayling, Brimstone, Clouded Apollo (3+), Small Copper, Marsh Fritillary (30+? – these were everywhere now), Small Tortoiseshell, Pearl-bordered Fritillary (2), Black-veined White, Woodland Ringlet, Scarce Swallowtail, Comma, Painted Lady (2+), Balkan Copper, Marbled Fritillary, Niobe Fritillary, Mallow Skipper, Clouded Yellow, Spotted Fritillary, Large Tortoiseshell

After this I rather foolishly decided to take the 4x4 further up the mountain. A single-track route took me right up to 1980m – looking for a safe place to turn round! Not at all recommended: the track up to the windfarms is fine since service lorries use it – after this, it was far more hairy.

After this, on my way back to base I stopped off at the Perivoli Viewpoint for some more species for the day:

Perivoli Viewpoint, 1154m, 4.40-5pm
Black-veined White, Small Skipper, Marbled White, Holly Blue (2), Ilex Hairstreak, Silver-washed Fritillary, Pearly Heath, Large Skipper, Meadow Brown, Twin-spot Fritillary, Amanda’s Blue

Daylist Total: 42 (1 lifer), highlights being the Idas Blue and the windfarm meadows, entirely alive with Fritillaries.

Triplist additions:
77. IDAS BLUE
78. Orange Tip
79. Brimstone
80. Small Tortoiseshell
81. Scarce Swallowtail

photos: Views, Niobe&MarshFrit, Idas Blue
Attachments
IdasBlueKS11341200.jpg
Niobe&MarbledFritillariesPM1200.jpg
PeristeriMeadow2400.jpg
LakeVeghoritidafromKaimaktsalan.JPG
DaveF
Posts: 146
Joined: Wed Oct 05, 2011 1:01 pm

Re: North-West Greece

Post by DaveF »

Day 8, 3rd July
Today I revisited the Oxia ski centre on Mt Vitsi, this time journeying via Kastoria to avoid the dodgy road section mentioned previously. I took the opportunity to do a little more research on the location with my maps to find a few more plausible areas.

A very quick stop at the Perivoli viewpoint found me Twin-spot Fritillary (2) and Meadow Brown (I returned later on the way back).

Once arrived in the foothills of the mountain, I stopped at region called Anemodharto in the beech forest on the road up to the ski centre. This proved to be a very nice spot.

Anemodharto, 1297m, 20C 10.40-11.40
Great Banded Grayling, Marbled White (3+), Black-veined White, Small Heath, Common Blue, Clouded Yellow, Small Skipper, Mazarine Blue (2), Meadow Brown, Small Blue (2), Large Blue (4), Painted Lady, Amanda’s Blue, Silver-studded Blue, Olive Skipper, Small Copper (3), Pearly Heath, Brown Argus (2), Purple-shot Copper, Queen of Spain Fritillary, Russian Heath

I then passed the ski centre and stopped along the roadside a couple of times:

Meadow past ski centre, 1605m 11.45-12.20
Large Blue (2+), Heath Fritillary (2), Woodland Ringlet, Green-veined White, Clouded Apollo, Painted Lady, Olive Skipper, Marsh Fritillary, Amanda’s Blue, Mazarine Blue (2), Brimstone, Silver-washed Fritillary, Clouded Yellow

Roadside meadow just below treeline, 1726m 12.20-12.40
(NB military area with no photography signs begins at 1750m)
Marsh Fritillary (3+), Common Blue, Peacock, Woodland Ringlet, Dingy Skipper, Green-veined White, Mazarine Blue, Queen of Spain Fritillary, Clouded Apollo

Then back down hill again:

Meadow by ski centre, 1583m, 12.45-1.15
Wall Brown, Common Blue, Amanda’s Blue (2), Clouded Apollo, Large Blue (3+), Glanville Fritillary, Woodland Ringlet, Purple-shot Copper, Russian Heath, Clouded Yellow, Comma

Roadside Meadow with stream, 1539m 1.20-1.50 a nice spot with wild mint and some orchids
Marbled Fritillary (2), Common Blue, Pearl-bordered Fritillary, Purple-shot Copper, Small Copper, Holly Blue, Peacock, Large Blue

I then headed down off the mountain and back towards Kastoria. I stopped at the roadside south of Oxya for a picnic lunch

Lunchstop, 883m, 2.10-3pm
Clouded Yellow, Small Skipper, Purple-shot Copper, Marbled White, Holly Blue, Lang’s Short-tailed Blue

Finally, a last stop at the Perivoli viewpoint, 4-4.30pm:
Marbled White, Purple-shot Copper (2+ inc. 1 female), Small Skipper, Meadow Brown, Great Banded Grayling (2), Pearly Heath, Ilex Hairstreak (3), Black-veined White, Marbled Fritillary.

I got back to base at Agios Germanos just after 5pm.

Daylist total: 40, highlights being the numbers of Large Blues and the diversity on offer on the road up Mt Vitsi.

Triplist additions:
82. Wall Brown
83. Lang’s Short-tailed Blue
Attachments
GlanvilleFritOX1200.jpg
MazarineBlue(female)1297mOX1200.jpg
LargeBlueOX1297m1200.jpg
DaveF
Posts: 146
Joined: Wed Oct 05, 2011 1:01 pm

Re: North-West Greece

Post by DaveF »

Apologies for lack of updates: work intruding on my time…

Last few days to follow shortly.

Day 9, 4th July
Today I decided to revist the locations around the lakes, visiting the Pyli areas again. The day started really well with a Lesser Purple Emperor on the ground by the car in the middle of Agios Germanos!

Meadow/quarry at Pyli 897m, 10-11.40am
Berger’s Clouded Yellow (2), Marbled White, Marbled Fritillary, High Brown Fritillary f. cleodoxa (2), Meadow Brown, Silver-washed Fritillary (4+), Clouded Yellow (2+), Meleager’s Blue (4+), Common Blue, Brown Argus, Small Skipper, Small blue, Brimstone (2), Amanda’s Blue, Great Banded Grayling, Large Skipper, Ilex Hairstreak, Wood White, Anomalous Blue, Olive Skipper (2+), Silver-studded Blue (2+), Lesser Spotted Fritillary, Black-veined White, Escher’s Blue, Spotted Fritillary (2), Small Heath, Painted Lady, Green-veined White, Knapweed Fritillary, Small White

Delighted to find Anomalous Blue – superficially similar to a female Meleager’s Blue, especially given habit of perching for long periods of blades of grass. I've now seen three species of Anomalous Blue in Greece.

Another stop at the further spot along the road to Vrodero at 975m, 11.45-12.20:
Marbled White, Meadow Brown, Silver-washed Fritillary, Knapweed Fritillary, Lesser Spotted Fritillary, Marbled Skipper – another nice find, Meleager’s Blue (2), Clouded Yellow (2), Berger’s Clouded Yellow, Great Banded Grayling, Black-veined White (2), Large Skipper, Pearly Heath, Olive Skipper (2), Common Blue

Pixos Chapel 1081m, 12.25-12.50
Great Banded Grayling, Meadow Brown, Black-veined White, Marbled White, Eastern Bath White, Common Blue, Clouded Yellow, Wood White, Painted Lady (2)

Again, good birding to be had along this quiet pastoral route – Turtle Doves, Bee-eaters, Alpine Swits, Woodlark, Short-toed Eagle, Long-legged Buzzard, Cirl Bunting, Red-backed Shrike

Another stop along the road among the trees here – I had spotted some ageing Blackthorn bushes

Stop at 971m, 1.10-1.25
Clouded Yellow, Small Skipper, Meadow Brown, Marbled White, Silver-washed Fritillary, Sloe Hairstreak (2), Lulworth Skipper

Then down to Psarades for lunch – grilled Tsironi (local lake roach)

Here there were 9+ Mazarine Blues basking on the pavement outside, along with Anomalous Blue, Amanda’s Blue, a Clouded Yellow and a couple of Silver-washed Fritillaries.

After lunch, another stop at Agios Georgios, 1058m, 3.10-3.40:
Small Skipper, Marbled White, Blue-spot Hairstreak (4), Black-veined White, Olive Skipper, Common Blue, Silver-washed Fritillary, Wood White

By this time it was really hot, so I headed down to visit the island of Agios Achilleios on Mikri Prespa Lake (reached by pontoon bridge through the reedbeds).
Agios Achilleios is at 861m altitude. Birdwise this is pretty good, and would be particularly excellent in winter and spring.
While this stop was really for a café break, I did see a few BFs:
Brimstone (4), Holly Blue, Painted Lady (2), Comma, Meadow Brown, Black-veined White.

Birdwise, Squacco Heron, Little Egret, Black-crowned Night Heron, Little Grebe, Great Crested Grebe, Tree Sparrow, Cormorant, Pygmy Cormorant, Great White Pelican, Dalmatian Pelican (lots of both, soaring over the lakes), Great Reed Warbler, Glossy Ibis, Great White Egret, Coot, Swallow, Swift, House Sparrow, Moorhen, Bearded Tit, Cetti’s Warbler

Daylist total 39 (3 lifers): highlights today were new species

Triplist additions:
84. ANOMALOUS BLUE
85. MARBLED SKIPPER
86. Eastern Bath White
87. SLOE HAIRSTREAK
Attachments
AnomalousBluePY1200.jpg
MarbledSkipperPT1200.jpg
SloeHairstreakVroderoRoad1200.jpg
ShortToedEaglePL1200.jpg
WoodenWindowAgiosAchilleiosBWsmall.jpg
DaveF
Posts: 146
Joined: Wed Oct 05, 2011 1:01 pm

Re: North-West Greece

Post by DaveF »

Gratuitous abstract iphone shot posted there (see my flickr pages for more landscape/abstract photography)!

Day 10, 5th July
My last full day, so a rush around all the best local sites I found to see what if anything new I might turn up.

First stop at the Pisoderi meadow

Pisoderi Meadow 1440m plus, 10-11am
Common Blue, Purple-shot Copper, Balkan Copper, Escher’s Blue, Heath Fritillary, Yellow-banded Skipper (finally a – rubbish! – picture of the underside), Black-veined White, Small Copper (2), Pearly Heath, Large Blue, Small Tortoiseshell, Comma, Glanville Fritillary, Spotted Fritillary, Knapweed Fritillary, Queen of Spain Fritillary (2), Peacock, Pearl-bordered Fritillary, Woodland Ringlet, Brown Argus, Marbled White, Painted Lady, Large Skipper, Amanda’s Blue
Lots of Horseflies…!

Peristeri Meadow 1670m, 11.10am-12.20pm
Painted Lady (3+), Clouded Apollo (4+), Black-veined White (3+), Clouded Yellow (2+), Marsh Fritillary (20+), Queen of Spain Fritillary (3), Purple-shot Copper, Woodland Ringlet, Green-veined White, Large White, Berger’s Clouded Yellow, Marbled Fritillary, Weaver’s Fritillary, Balkan Copper (2+), Oberthür’s Grizzled Skipper (2), Small Tortoiseshell, Peacock, Pearly Heath, Pearl-bordered Fritillary, Comma, Great Banded Grayling

Large horseflies here by now doing terrible things to my legs!! A hasty retreat down to lakeside for lunch at Agios Achilleios, after one last stop at the Pyli meadow/quarry spot.

Meadow/quarry at Pyli 897m, 1-1.30pm, hot and windy
Silver-studded Blue, Clouded Yellow, Meleager’s Blue (3+), Meadow Brown, Small Skipper, Marbled White, Brimstone (3+), Berger’s Clouded Yellow (2), Mallow Skipper, Lesser Spotted Fritillary, Silver-washed Fritillary (3+), Niobe Fritillary, Small Blue, Marbled Fritillary, Ilex Hairstreak, Blue-spot Hairstreak, High Brown Fritillary

Afternoon then spent at Agios Achilleios, doing some more birding and having lunch.

Daylist total: 47 (1 lifer), highlights being the range of species and the numbers, especially up on the mountain. Shame about the horseflies, quite intimidating at times!

Triplist additions:
88. WEAVER’S FRITILLARY


I set off the following morning, taking about 4hrs to get back to Thessaloniki, factoring in an hour’s stop off at Vergina en route (you could spend a whole day there really). Thessaloniki Hertz drop-off is rather chaotic and a shuttle-bus 5-minute drive from the terminal. The terminal is crowded and hot; I’d probably recommend the extra expense of a business class ticket to access a quieter air-conditioned lounge if you are bothered.
Attachments
Weaver'sFritillary1200.jpg
YellowBandedSkipperunsPD1200.jpg
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